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How do the upper distributor shield brackets attach?
When I got my car, the distributor shielding had been removed. Now that I have accumulated all the parts, I was trying to see how the upper brackets mount (the curved pieces that have a Y-shapes at the ends). Are these held on by manifold head bolts? If this is the case, do you take out the two bolts that need to be removed, then re-torque them back to the book settings? Also, it looks like the distributor needs to come out to get at the head bolts. I've never taken out my distributor and don't want to mess things up by doing something stupid. Suggestions or things to watch out for would be greatly appreciated.
I've been wondering about this myself. I think you're right about the mainifold bolts but I don't know. If that is the case, will I need to use longer bolts to compensate for the thickness of the bracket?
I just replaced plug wires on my 75 a couple of weeks ago... Mine has a bracket that attaches to the intake to support the center and tops of the two curved sections. the two curved sections then go down and bolt into the bolt or the head with two small sized bolts, maybe 7/16 or 3/8 wrench.
I don't think there is any head bolts that needed to come out, but I could be wrong.
Did you also get the boomerang pieces that bolt to the block on the underside of things? You'll need these to keep the wires off the manifold. You will likely have to drop the started to get the wires in the right place on the passenger side.... be prepared for a PITA project if your doing the wires at the same time!!!!
A couple of weeks ago I spent over an hour re-routing the front 2 plug wires on the passenger side. Someone had run those 2 wires over the top of the engine and tie-wrapped them to the fuel line. I prefer the look of the engine with the wires hidden, so the effort was worth it. Be prepared to get really dirty, especially if your engine is as 'moist' as mine was.
A couple of weeks ago I spent over an hour re-routing the front 2 plug wires on the passenger side. Someone had run those 2 wires over the top of the engine and tie-wrapped them to the fuel line. I prefer the look of the engine with the wires hidden, so the effort was worth it. Be prepared to get really dirty, especially if your engine is as 'moist' as mine was.
Rick B.
Yes, this is on the list to do at the same time. Both of the "boomerangs" are still installed on my car. Probably because it was too much work for the idiot P.O. to remove and discard these pieces (unlike the rest of the chrome shielding ).
Now I'm wondering if I am still missing another piece. Do the Y-shaped side brackets bolt directly to the intake manifold, or are they screwed into something else that is attached to the manifold?
Order the AIM; it shows how all this attaches. If I understand what you're asking, there are two spark plug wiring supports (left and right -- they're different) which attach to the block using manifold bolts; these have weldnuts and a slot for the four-hole square wire grommets. Distributor can attaches to these supports with wing nuts. Below these on the block are two wiring supports (left and right) which are slotted to hold rectangular wiring grommets. Left and right shielding attaches to these and the upper support with wingnuts. The V shields mount to the block.
I do have the AIM, but wanted to be sure since the pictures were not completely unambiguous in mine. Also, since it looks like I have to pull the distributor out to get at the manifold bolts, I was hoping for some pointers on this. The car runs pretty well now, and I hate to go backward!
Do the Y-shaped side brackets bolt directly to the intake manifold, or are they screwed into something else that is attached to the manifold?
On my 71 the Y brackets are attached to the intake manafold. On the drivers side it's slid under the last bolt, on the pass side it's under the next to last bolt.
On my 71 the Y brackets are attached to the intake manafold. On the drivers side it's slid under the last bolt, on the pass side it's under the next to last bolt.
Thanks - that's what I guessed from looking at the brackets, but I wanted to be sure before taking any manifold bolts out.
Why remove the dist. to take the bolts out?!?!?! Don't use a socket and instead use a box wrench, should have plenty of room to get bolt out, as for the torque just tighten by hand, manifold is already "seated" to gasket, not like you are breaking the seal. Also don't worry about the length of the bolt, plenty of thread there to make up for the thin sheet metal bracket. Good luck.........................B
If memory serves, you don't have to remove the distributor.
Good to know. It didn't look like there was enough clearance for a socket and torque wrench, but as was pointed out, it's not a big deal since I'm not breaking the gasket seal. I'll use a wrench tonight and hopefully have everything done after dinner.