My first new problem, yeah!

I've got a 1980 automatic.

Well here goes: The choke light comes on and a buzzer in the center console is buzzing in and out lightly. Upping the rpm's any above idle and the light goes out and the buzzer off.

I've opened up the center console but besides finding the buzzer I don't know what most things are. I can follow what leads to what but much of it is beyond me.

Pulling off the air cleaner assembly shows me the choke plate open. I didn't check this with the engine being completely cold as i've read it should be done but turned it over a few times and let it run a bit (its also a really hot day). Moving it by hand I cannot close it all the way. That seems to be a problem to me but I don't know what controls the choke plate and couldn't tell where the problem would be. Is my choke just stuck open and will this give me problems for a planned roadtrip or should this be fixed first?

The connector for the heater sensor came up in some searchs as a problem. People indicated they shake lose and whatnot. Mine seems secure and has some wear obvious it looks to be making a conection to me.

I'm a total noob to carburetors.

--UPDATE--

Been tooling around all day not really getting much accomplished but I am learning a lot just by looking at everything. I got my interior lights working (didn't even realise they weren't till I pushed on the fuse to check how tight it was and it popped in and they popped on).

Question: The green box that is making this buzzing sound a relay for the choke? I can't find a electrical diagram in the Haynes book for the automatic choke circuit, but wiggling the wires in the connection was obviously making the buzzing get louder and softer and the choke light would come in and out making me think this. The way I'm figuring it works is that the temp sensor is what triggers the auto choke to engage and this green plastic box is what the sensor triggers to cause it to engage. Any thoughts?

(I posted this in the tech page by accident and didn't get any replies so I figured maybe this section is better for troubleshooting)

 

I had the same problem on my 80 except for the buzzing sound,check at the egr valve,there is a small round relay type at the intake manifold,I replaced my egr valve and forgot to reinstall it to the manifold,when I did the light went out, hope it works for you

 

There is a diode in the alternator that will cause this symptom when it fails. I have an 80 that did the same thing and a new alternator did the trick. You might pop the alternator out and take it in to get tested. Luckily, it was one of the easy things to get at in a Vette.

 

I'm away from home for a few more days but I forgot to mention that the battery light is on. Right before I read your response I had found somewhere on the internet someone with the same problem as mine and it turned out to be bad diodes in the alternator.

As soon as I get home I pulling it and getting it tested. Thanks!

 

Dude...Totally! I thought that this was just a quirk of my 1980.
When I turn the engine on & it runs at idle, everything is cool. BUT, the minute I put it in gear and get theRPM's up a little bit, the buzzer comes on, the choke light comes on & the battery (red) light all come on.

WTF?!?!?!
The battery is holding a great charge & the alternator is only 1 year old & brilliantly clean?

"So...Battery light comes on, buzzer noise comes on and CHOKE light comes on."

What can this mean? My mechanic said that it looks like a battery relay switch is bad...Where in the h3ll is that located?



Wowsers...this thread rocks. Thanks for such a great site

 

Talk about irony.....my 80 just started this again yesterday. I think this car hates me. I get to go out and pull the alternator in the parking lot here in a few and see if I can tear it open and get a new diode board for it.

 

Well if anybody is keeping up with this thread, here is the latest on my situation. I went and had the Alt. tested and it tested fine. I went ahead and replaced the diode trio anyway. I figure if I am going to throw parts at it, I'll start with a $3.00 one. That didn't do the trick this time but I got at least $3.00 smarter on the innards of an alternator.

The difference between this go around and a few years ago is the battery light. Last time I went through this the batt. light was glowing slightly as well, this time it isn't. I just remembered that as I was getting the alternator back together. I guess next I will look at the actual choke heater realy under the center console. I think that is about $7.00 or so. If that doesn't get it then I guess it is human oragami time and I will start looking at fuses. Yesterday when this started, it was somewhat intermittent but today the choke light is on full as is the buzz from the relay, which leads me to believe it is probably not a fuse.

Anybody else got any ideas?

How are you other guys doing with your issues? I can't believe the irony of this, I post about it to try and help and now look at me, right here in the same boat.

 

Changed the battery relay switch & put a new edelbrock carb on with electric choke and "Wala!"

Not only that, but all my interior gages work now.


oh, ps...the battery light doesn't stay on anymore.

 

For future reference, where is the elusive battery relay switch? And, to make matters even more bizarre, this morning on the way into work, everything returned to normal.... no choke light, no buzz. This was a lot easier last time I dealt with this. Battery light hasn't been on this time around for me.

 

The test at the store confirmed bad diode trio so instead of buying a new alternator I bought the diode replacement for 5 bucks. Unfortunately I broke the brush housing during reassembly So now I'm waiting till monday for another part. Still cheaper than a new alternator but I haven't been able to drive in a week!

 

I put a new diode trio in mine just for giggles. It was the easiest $3.00 bucks I have ever spent just for the sake of letting me get inside an alternator. My choke problems are something esle this time. Oh the irony of it all.

 

ARGHHHHHHHHHHH!!!! So I got the new brush holder bracket and to my surprise it came with new brushes, springs, and a small rod holding it all together!

So the alternator went back together and in the 'vette with no problem. Starts right up and no choke light or battery light on. YEAH!

But wait, why is gauge reading close to 18 volts! OH NO!

So I figure the alternator voltage regulator is shot. DANG NABBIT!

What's everyones opinion, throw out another 25 bucks to replace the voltage regulator and wire clip (which upon inspection looks slightly melted and needs to be replaced anyways) or put down 130 on a new chromed out 100 amp beast to power a killer soundsystem?

Pulling the alternator apart was easy and replacing the diodes no problem. I would feel comfortable doing it again and if anyone runs into the problem I had its an easy $3.00 fix. Just turned into one of those problems leading to other problems kinda deal for me.

 

Stick a regulator in there and be done with it, have a beer. Then next week do the upgrade!

 

Would love to do it now but best delivery time for that alternator regulator is a week.

I went ahead and bought a 100 amp performance alternator that I will be able to pick up today. 105 bucks. no chrome, since that would have been 50 more and I didn't want the rest of the engine to get jealous and start breaking.

I'll put up a post about it after i drop it in.

 

Did anyone ever say where the battery relay was located?

 

[QUOTE=Bongaroo]..... no chrome, since that would have been 50 more and I didn't want the rest of the engine to get jealous and start breaking. [QUOTE]




Classic!

 

Nope ....it is apparently a very guarded, high threat to national security type secret.

 

Mine started this yesterday too! The choke light is only on when I accelerate. Seems to be runniing fine.

 

I have checked the fuse and it is good on mine. Next I am going to buy a new choke heater relay.

 

OK then.....new choke relay didn't do anything for me either. The only thing I have not replaced is the choke itself. I used a mutimeter and checked continuity from the choke relay harness to the carb connection and all is good. I am getting 11.6 volts to the carb as well. The only thing I can think is the choke has failed.