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If it doesn't overheat when up to speed, the fans are suspect. The fans can run, just not turn fast enough and do so intermittently. I have seen plenty of examples of this.
Last weekend I replaced the water pump and both fan motors. It seems the fans are spinning faster now, I probably wasted $50 for the new pump but that's ok....
It's running like brand new, thanks everybody for the input.
WTF ???? The engine was running very hot about three weeks ago, shut it off and let it cool down.... started the engine, drove home and replaced thermostat and flushed the radiator. Didn't have a problem for three weeks, I was convinced it was the thermostat not opening or not opening enough.... now it's overheating again (gauge shows 250F).
I'm going to the "zone" and get a water pump... must be the pump .... or not ????
What else could it be ??? BTW, this is a 3.8L V6 (F-body)
What's leading you to thermostats and water pumps?
When and under what circumstances is it overheating? It could just be the electric fan motor. You might also want to take a look down the radiator or expansion tank to see if there are any bubbles present when the engine is running.
1. They pump water - good.
2. They leak water out the weeping hole cause the seal died- not good.
3. They completely fall apart cause the bearing died. - not good.
What's leading you to thermostats and water pumps?
When and under what circumstances is it overheating? It could just be the electric fan motor. You might also want to take a look down the radiator or expansion tank to see if there are any bubbles present when the engine is running.
Both fans are running. It overheats while driving in traffic, not sure if it runs cooler at f.e. 70mph with more air flowing across the radiator...
Three weeks ago my theory was that a water pump or a fan motor either works or not, nothing in between.....that's why I thought it may be the thermostat not opening....
1. They pump water - good.
2. They leak water out the weeping hole cause the seal died- not good.
3. They completely fall apart cause the bearing died. - not good.
Which one do you have?
-Mark.
I just looked at the new water pump - such a simple design, there's not much that can go wrong except the bearing maybe......
I'll check the fans again.
The parts store is only 4 minutes from my house, maybe tomorrow I return the pump for new fan motors....
If it doesn't overheat when up to speed, the fans are suspect. The fans can run, just not turn fast enough and do so intermittently. I have seen plenty of examples of this.
If it doesn't overheat when up to speed, the fans are suspect. The fans can run, just not turn fast enough and do so intermittently. I have seen plenty of examples of this.
Fan motors seem to be easier to replace than the pump.....
This is my wife's DD and I'll have to get this fixed tomorrow so she has her car on Monday morning..... will be a nice Sunday (again).....
Engine overheated (went to 240F) after driving only 3 miles..... after only 3 miles it should not need the fans at all.... must be a flow issue ???? or not ???
I'll likely replace both fan motors, switches and water pump tomorrow.... just to make sure she doesn't have to call AAA on Monday
You might also want to make sure that the cooling system has been purged of air, or when you change the pump, make sure it's purged.
I thought about that three weeks ago when I flushed the system and replaced the thermostat - 99% sure I got the air out.
If I did not, why is it only sometimes getting too hot and not all the time ?
... confused.....
BTW, the engine is getting hot, it's not the gauge.
You might also want to make sure that the cooling system has been purged of air, or when you change the pump, make sure it's purged.
This may sound like a dumb question, but how does one purge the air out of the cooling system? Does it just involve putting enough coolant in so that it sits high in an overflow tank?
This may sound like a dumb question, but how does one purge the air out of the cooling system? Does it just involve putting enough coolant in so that it sits high in an overflow tank?
I have a bleeder screw at the thermostate housing. I filled the radiator, started the engine and opened the bleeder. Then I continued filling the radiator and watched what was coming out of the bleeder. First it's some water, air, water again.... once it was a steady flow of water I closed the bleeder screw.... done....
I have a bleeder screw at the thermostate housing. I filled the radiator, started the engine and opened the bleeder. Then I continued filling the radiator and watched what was coming out of the bleeder. First it's some water, air, water again.... once it was a steady flow of water I closed the bleeder screw.... done....
Is that a stock thermostat housing? I don't seem to recall a bleeder screw on the one I've got...
This may sound like a dumb question, but how does one purge the air out of the cooling system? Does it just involve putting enough coolant in so that it sits high in an overflow tank?
The old fashion way works for me. Cold start...cap off...add water/coolant....wait for "tstat" to kick in....watch the water/coolant level drop in the rad....add more....watch for it to rise and start over flowing...put the cap on. Next time it cools down check the level. top up as needed.
Fortunaltely I have an overflow on the 82. Not sure if you do. If I'm low it draws from there. I just top off the over flow. Level has been perfect all summer.
Several years back, I replaced the waterpump in my 3.8l Buick.
After filling and driving off, severe overheating.
I went back, flushed water through the system with a garden hose.
At that point, it was running cool. Partial drain and fill proved good.
For some reason these engines get air trapped near/in the pump.
Once air is out, drain and fill is OK. Strange but true.
Several years back, I replaced the waterpump in my 3.8l Buick.
After filling and driving off, severe overheating.
I went back, flushed water through the system with a garden hose.
At that point, it was running cool. Partial drain and fill proved good.
For some reason these engines get air trapped near/in the pump.
Once air is out, drain and fill is OK. Strange but true.
Obviously our friends at GM knew this was going to happen, otherwise they would not have spent the money for the bleeder screw.