When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I was planning on pulling out the suspension today but I am stuck. The GM shop manual says to drill out the rivets (I assume the rivets are the five rivets between the wheel studs). I tried some drill bits with an electric power drill, but no luck. What kind of a drill bit do I need, and what is the optimal width?
When putting the rotors back on, how are the rivets re-inserted? Do you hammer them in? Are those the only thing holding the wheel onto the car?
From: Lake Arrowhead - Georgia > 72 Base Coupe & 74 BB Roadster
Don't remember for sure....been a while. Will the disk and hub come off as one piece, if you remove the outer bearing. ??? Only remove the rivets IF you need to get the disk turned for a brake job.
-------------------------------------
Somebody help us out here!
-------------------------------------
I am a bit puzzled with my 74...."appears" to have 106,654 miles, but the factory rivets are still there. Disks are true and "like new". Odo shows 06654.00 miles. Don't make any sense to me.
Last edited by fotyfobravo; Aug 26, 2006 at 06:04 PM.
I was planning on pulling out the suspension today but I am stuck. The GM shop manual says to drill out the rivets (I assume the rivets are the five rivets between the wheel studs). I tried some drill bits with an electric power drill, but no luck. What kind of a drill bit do I need, and what is the optimal width?
When putting the rotors back on, how are the rivets re-inserted? Do you hammer them in? Are those the only thing holding the wheel onto the car?
Thanks
I had to use cardide bits. Monay, money, money. You could use an angle grinder and grind the heads off. Don't worry about putting the rivits back in.
After drilling out the rivets, the lug nuts hold the rotor when you reinstall the wheel. You don't have to use new rivets as the lug nuts will do the job.
Kurt
From what I have read, many do not replace the rivets.
I think it is fairly common to leave them out and just let the lug nuts hold the wheel.
My 68 still has the rivets in place.
Kurt
I did it with a set of cheapo drill bits. I did it in 3 sizes though. Start out small then increase to a larger one. Slower speed with some cutting oil worked well. I had the fronts in a drill press also. Take off the hub assembly and put it in the drill press. Much easier.
Regular 'el cheapo' drill bits will get the job done. Use a centerpunch and drill a small hole first. You don't have to drill all the way thru, as soon as you drilled the rivet's head off you can punch the rest out. Use oil to cool the drill bit.....
You may find shims between the rotor and axle, these are to align the rotor (to reduce runout)
Since i was replacing my rotors anyways I used a angle grinder to grind the rivets about 1/16" into the rotors to break the rivet lip, then I used my air impact hammer gun and a pointy attachment to knock the rivet out from behind.
I tried the "drill bit" method at first and this was WAY easier for me.
I just drilled out mine yesterday and it's not to bad. Just use a 1/4 size bit about 3/4" in then use alittle larger bit to break the rivet cap, then bang them out a 1/4 size punch.
Well, I drilled the center out of all five rivets and couldn't pop any of them out.
However, I discovered after taking the time to drill every rivet, there was this thing called the wheel hub and bearing, and after removing them in about five minutes the rotor slipped right out. Live and learn I guess. Rebuilding everything with no prior automotive repair experience has led to some interesting mistakes and a few thrown wrenches.
After looking at the rotors... what in the heck do the rivets accomplish? They don't seem to have any functional value as they don't appear to attach to anything.
the rivets hold the rotor to the hub with the tire off. they used them in the factory so they could flip the frame over on the line without the rotors falling off(so I've heard). This also makes it easier to set the runout on the rotors-true up assembly instead of trueing both hub and rotor seperate.
Weird. Within the hub there was a large nut that held in the rotor bearing. A cotter pin was fitted through the nut. Once the nut and bearing were removed, the rotor slipped off. The rivets were connected to absolutely nothing and simply went through the rotor thickness. The rivets I was looking at were on the rotor itself, between the lug nut bolts.
I couldn't identify anything holding the wheel on other than the nut and bearing. Perhaps what I was thinking were "the" rivets were not there, and the rotor has been replaced some time ago?
Your working on the front-thought you were talking about the rear.The rotors were riveted frt and rear because they were assemblys.The frt hubs and rear spindle flanges were not always 0 runout.The rotors were turned while riveted to the hubs or spindle.When you brake them apart and put on a new rotor you have to face the rotor if not lower than .005 runout-thats easy on the front-not on the rear.Once the large nut on the spindle has been torqued to spec the center for lathe turning is tweaked.
Weird. Within the hub there was a large nut that held in the rotor bearing. A cotter pin was fitted through the nut. Once the nut and bearing were removed, the rotor slipped off. The rivets were connected to absolutely nothing and simply went through the rotor thickness. The rivets I was looking at were on the rotor itself, between the lug nut bolts.
I couldn't identify anything holding the wheel on other than the nut and bearing. Perhaps what I was thinking were "the" rivets were not there, and the rotor has been replaced some time ago?
You are talking about the rotor and hub together. Sometimes it is needed to separate the two as most replacement and all aftermarket rotors come without a hub. Other disc brake cars of the era used an integral hub and rotor in one instead of two pieces riveted together.
Here is a picture that shows the rivets for everyone.
Here is a front hub minus rotor and studs. You can see where the rivets attach.
From: Lake Arrowhead - Georgia > 72 Base Coupe & 74 BB Roadster
Originally Posted by nihil
Weird. Within the hub there was a large nut that held in the rotor bearing. A cotter pin was fitted through the nut. Once the nut and bearing were removed, the rotor slipped off. The rivets were connected to absolutely nothing and simply went through the rotor thickness. The rivets I was looking at were on the rotor itself, between the lug nut bolts.
I couldn't identify anything holding the wheel on other than the nut and bearing. Perhaps what I was thinking were "the" rivets were not there, and the rotor has been replaced some time ago?
AHA! The pictures show it very clearly now. I was thinking the of the rotor and hub as one solid piece. Now I see what part of the rotor the hub actually is.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.