rattle can primer
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
rattle can primer
I'm using rattle can primer on a few areas on the hood and on the bumper seams (bumpers glassed in). I'm using the primer so I can see high and low spots when I'm sanding.
Do I have to remove this primer completely with f.e. thinner or stripper before I shoot the "real" primer ?
Do I have to remove this primer completely with f.e. thinner or stripper before I shoot the "real" primer ?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
My understanding (wrestling with same issues) is that most paint
products are OK to paint over, if SEALED. You need to cover the
old paint(s) with a sealer, like a good 2-part epoxy primer. You want to
make sure that old stuff doesn't bleed through to new paint. Seal it.
I also have some areas I want to spot prime, like the sides of the doors, etc.
I think I'm gonna order up some nice epoxy primer and get a Preval
spray can to apply in these areas before the big-spray.
You could also use this idea in your case, spraying small areas
with Preval sprayer and the primer you intend to use.
If priming and block sanding to level the panels, you cannot simply
strip it away after ... back to wavy panels.
Imagine how wavy this would be after removing the primer.
http://NHvette.com/ftp/in/as_she_sits_05_12_06.jpg
I decided against seaming the bumper in ... too much sanding and 'glass work as it is.
products are OK to paint over, if SEALED. You need to cover the
old paint(s) with a sealer, like a good 2-part epoxy primer. You want to
make sure that old stuff doesn't bleed through to new paint. Seal it.
I also have some areas I want to spot prime, like the sides of the doors, etc.
I think I'm gonna order up some nice epoxy primer and get a Preval
spray can to apply in these areas before the big-spray.
You could also use this idea in your case, spraying small areas
with Preval sprayer and the primer you intend to use.
If priming and block sanding to level the panels, you cannot simply
strip it away after ... back to wavy panels.
Imagine how wavy this would be after removing the primer.
http://NHvette.com/ftp/in/as_she_sits_05_12_06.jpg
I decided against seaming the bumper in ... too much sanding and 'glass work as it is.
Last edited by NHvette; Aug 29, 2006 at 04:51 PM.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
Thanks everybody..... well, I guess I'm sanding most of the rattle can stuff off anyways....
I just got my paint gun today, hopefully get the compressor next weekend..... then I can spray some primer/sealer and see how good I am at painting
I just got my paint gun today, hopefully get the compressor next weekend..... then I can spray some primer/sealer and see how good I am at painting
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,249
Likes: 13
From: San Angelo TX
RedBad,
You are not getting the correct advice here.
Go to www.hotrodders.com.
Sign up and post your questions like this on the "Body-Exterior" forum.
Many pros hang out on that forum and you are going get excellent advice there.
I guarantee you will get hooked on that forum.
Sent you a pm.
You are not getting the correct advice here.
Go to www.hotrodders.com.
Sign up and post your questions like this on the "Body-Exterior" forum.
Many pros hang out on that forum and you are going get excellent advice there.
I guarantee you will get hooked on that forum.
Sent you a pm.
Last edited by roger55; Aug 29, 2006 at 11:00 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,249
Likes: 13
From: San Angelo TX
Originally Posted by VettePower
Excellent way of doing it. And no you do not have to totally remove it before you primer the whole car. Just lightly sand over it.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,249
Likes: 13
From: San Angelo TX
Originally Posted by NHvette
My understanding (wrestling with same issues) is that most paint
products are OK to paint over, if SEALED. You need to cover the
old paint(s) with a sealer, like a good 2-part epoxy primer. You want to
make sure that old stuff doesn't bleed through to new paint. Seal it.
I also have some areas I want to spot prime, like the sides of the doors, etc.
I think I'm gonna order up some nice epoxy primer and get a Preval
spray can to apply in these areas before the big-spray.
You could also use this idea in your case, spraying small areas
with Preval sprayer and the primer you intend to use.
If priming and block sanding to level the panels, you cannot simply
strip it away after ... back to wavy panels.
Imagine how wavy this would be after removing the primer.
http://NHvette.com/ftp/in/as_she_sits_05_12_06.jpg
I decided against seaming the bumper in ... too much sanding and 'glass work as it is.
products are OK to paint over, if SEALED. You need to cover the
old paint(s) with a sealer, like a good 2-part epoxy primer. You want to
make sure that old stuff doesn't bleed through to new paint. Seal it.
I also have some areas I want to spot prime, like the sides of the doors, etc.
I think I'm gonna order up some nice epoxy primer and get a Preval
spray can to apply in these areas before the big-spray.
You could also use this idea in your case, spraying small areas
with Preval sprayer and the primer you intend to use.
If priming and block sanding to level the panels, you cannot simply
strip it away after ... back to wavy panels.
Imagine how wavy this would be after removing the primer.
http://NHvette.com/ftp/in/as_she_sits_05_12_06.jpg
I decided against seaming the bumper in ... too much sanding and 'glass work as it is.
Best thing to do is remove all the primer. Then spray it with a high-build polyester primer like Evercoat Slick Sand or Featherfill G2 and re-block the car flat. Believe me, you can block the car perfectly flat very fast using this stuff. Leaving old lacquer primer on a car is not a good idea. Yea, you can get away with it if you seal it like you say, but it is not the best way to go.
It would be better yet to strip the car completely, shoot with epoxy primer and then go with the polyester primer. Then, final prime it with a urethane primer before topcoating.
Last edited by roger55; Aug 29, 2006 at 11:24 PM.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 663
Likes: 0
From: Honolulu Hawaii
Originally Posted by roger55
Best thing to do is remove all the primer. Then spray it with a high-build polyester primer like Evercoat Slick Sand or Featherfill G2 and re-block the car flat. Believe me, you can block the car perfectly flat very fast using this stuff. Leaving old lacquer primer on a car is not a good idea. Yea, you can get away with it if you seal it like you say, but it is not the best way to go.
It would be better yet to strip the car completely, shoot with epoxy primer and then go with the polyester primer. Then, final prime it with a urethane primer before topcoating.
It would be better yet to strip the car completely, shoot with epoxy primer and then go with the polyester primer. Then, final prime it with a urethane primer before topcoating.
all the way.. When I was getting my '78 ready for paint, I covered it with spray can primer... The painter wouldn't touch it until I sanded all of it off... I'll never do that again. what a PITA!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
Originally Posted by roger55
snip .... Yea, you can get away with it if you seal it like you say, but it is not the best way to go. ... snip
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,625
Likes: 0
From: Cut n Shoot TX
Originally Posted by roger55
Advice that will most certainly ruin a paint job.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,249
Likes: 13
From: San Angelo TX
Originally Posted by VettePower
Listen FOOL... I dn't know who the heck you are, but I have been painting cars for years, and you are fulll of BS. You use a good primer-sealer you will not have any problems. So keep your insults to yourself or learn what the heck you are talking about. Nuff said.................
Obviously, I still disagree with your advice. Using rattle can primer on a car is a bad idea.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
I'm not using it to prime for paint, only to help me see high and low areas while sanding.... right now I have some red color left on the bumpers, there is brown primer, greenish/white fiberglass jelly and yellow body filler.... impossible to tell if the panel is straight
Most of that rattle can stuff is going to be sanded off anyways.
Roger, I spent some time on that Hotrodder website... now I have a headache.... information overflow....
I'm hoping that I get my compressor next weekend, I'll likely prime the underside of the hood first. If I don't post about this two weeks from now it's because of embarrassment (might be frustration, too)
Most of that rattle can stuff is going to be sanded off anyways.
Roger, I spent some time on that Hotrodder website... now I have a headache.... information overflow....
I'm hoping that I get my compressor next weekend, I'll likely prime the underside of the hood first. If I don't post about this two weeks from now it's because of embarrassment (might be frustration, too)
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,036
Likes: 2
From: Huntingburg Indiana
The spray can primer is uncatalyzed and will be the weak point of your paint job. There is no reason to apply good paint over cheap primer. Use a urethane fill primer. This stuff goes on way thicker than any spray can primer will.
