Sorry if it's a noob question, but I did a search and didn't find any real pertinant information, other than a Corvette Buyer's Guide book. I was hoping to find something online.

Specifically, I'm trying to find potential problem areas in '80-'82 manual transmission cars. I'm seriously contemplating purchasing one in the near'ish future. I know bieng an older car, the usual areas need to be checked out, but I was hoping to learn if certian areas are more prone to wear/rust/etc...

The car would be a weekend driver/cruiser, with track-day (road course) events when I find time. I'm not looking for a Pebble Beach car, just a quality driver.

Any help would be excellent. Thanks in advance!



-Jay

 

IMO, the Corvette Buyer's Guide book is a pretty good resource to have.

Same as with any of these cars, rust in the frame and birdcage, if they're original, the brakes, and worn out suspension parts will probably the biggest worries you have.

 

Welcome to the club.... I hope you love working on cars, these corvettes are hungry, and they one eat green Benjamin.

What you want to check is mainly the frame and birdcage. Bring a hammer with you when you go look at the car. Don't bring it with you when you go knock on the door. The last thing I am going to do is open my front door to someone with a hammer in his hand. Ask the seller if the frame is in good shape. Bend down look at it, if you see lots of rust, go get the hammer and ask the seller if he minds if you take a few taps to check the frame. Make sure you check in front of the rear tires, those spots rot out first.

Secondly, but just as important, check the bird cage, this is what extends from the floor, up around the sides, and around the windshield.

The easiest way to check is to pull off the kick panels. One screw holds them in, and there is a lamp fixture which snaps into it as well.
Make sure it's not rotting. the condition of that spot is a good indication of how the rest of the birdcage is going to look.


Take this panel off.

If it looks like this, it's in good shape.

like this.... RUN!

 

Hi Jay,

Last year I purchased a 1980 after many months of searching on the internet and dealers within 100 mile radius of where I live. I bought my Corvette from the original owner. I think this is a big plus. Also look for a car that has been garage kept and not driven during winter weather in snow country or a car from the south. If you go to this website you can print a six page "Corvette Buyer's Evaluation Form". Hope this helps.

[URL="http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/tech/buyform.html"]

Mark

 

All of the above plus that your check book has 5 figures init after the purchase of the car, You'll need it.Still its the most fun you'll have spending your money.

 

In addition to looking for rust, check the flat pad at right side of the engine block where the head joins the block. If the seller advertises the car as "numbers matching" the last 5 or 6 numbers of the VIN # will be stamped into this pad along with some other numbers.



Rick B.

 

If the buyer's guide is by Michael Antonick, buy it and read it. It's good stuff.

Take '82 off your list. All of them were automatics.

The biggest difference between the 80s and 81s is the computer. No computer on the '80 models.

My .02, but I would look for an '80 L-82 four speed car.

 

Jay, please do an archive search. This subject appears weekly.

 

Here's a link to the FAQ sites check list. It is a 3 parter, you can replace the "1" with a 2 and then a 3 to get the other two.


http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/dpg/part1.htm