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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 01:58 PM
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Default Erratic temp gauge

I've recently noticed that my temp gauge goes crazy sometimes. I'm driving along at normal temperatures (around 190) and then it'll start moving erraticly, but then it'll go back to 190 for a couple seconds and then start moving crazily again. This mostly happens on the highway. Is it possible that the temperature sensor starts freaking out when I reach 195 or 200 but acts normally at colder temperatures?

Please let me know if you've had that problem or know how I can troubleshoot and fix this.

Type slowly, I'm a noob.
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by CrypTECH
I've recently noticed that my temp gauge goes crazy sometimes. I'm driving along at normal temperatures (around 190) and then it'll start moving erraticly, but then it'll go back to 190 for a couple seconds and then start moving crazily again. This mostly happens on the highway. Is it possible that the temperature sensor starts freaking out when I reach 195 or 200 but acts normally at colder temperatures?
Sounds like you may have a short somewhere. Try following the wire from the temp sensor in the block, see if it has worn through the insulation somewhere, and is grounding to metal. If it shorts out completely, it will shoot up to max and stay there. It's possible that you are having an intermittent short causing it to fluctuate like you described.

In my situation, I had installed a steel mesh cover over my upper radiator hose. This mesh would sometimes make contact with the top of the temperature sending unit where the wire is connected. It caused the same symptoms as you are describing.
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 02:40 PM
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I had the same issue, and approached it the same way that cchristo did.

Ended up being the connector to the temp sensor itself was barely making contact.

Got a fresh connector, crimped it on, no more problem.
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 02:52 PM
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Thanks, I'll go check for bad contacts.
I wasn't sure where that sensor was located (I wasn't kidding about being a noob), I guess I'll be looking in the vicinity of the upper radiator hose.

I'll let you know what I find...
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 03:34 PM
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either there on the thermostat houseing or between #3 and #5 on the side of the head
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 07:12 PM
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I'm pretty sure I've located it: a green wire. The wire looks old and a bit dry but I don't see any obvious problems with it or anything. I unplugged and replugged and tried to make sure it's not touching anything else, but it still went a little crazy on the drive home tonight, although a little less than usual.

I'll keep trying to debug this and I'll let you know when I get it.

Thanks for the help
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 11:53 PM
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have to burped the radiator lately? Maybe you have an air pocket in the cooling system. An air bubble makes the gauge go squirelly quick-like...
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Old Sep 7, 2006 | 01:06 AM
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Originally Posted by CrypTECH
I'm pretty sure I've located it: a green wire. The wire looks old and a bit dry but I don't see any obvious problems with it or anything. I unplugged and replugged and tried to make sure it's not touching anything else, but it still went a little crazy on the drive home tonight, although a little less than usual.

I'll keep trying to debug this and I'll let you know when I get it.

Thanks for the help
It doesn't take much. You should use a multimeter. If you don't have one, you can get a real cheap one at any of the auto-parts stores for around $10.00 or so. You get what you pay for, but it will work well enough for what you are trying to do.

Disconnect the temp sensor wire from the sensor. Put the multimeter switch to the Ohm setting. With the car running, put one probe on the sensor terminal and the other to ground. The needle should begin to move as the water begins to heat up. It should be a smooth movement, with some variation as the thermostat opens and closes. If it checks out, you have pretty much ruled out the temp sensor as the problem. Make sure you wiggle the terminal on the sensor occasionally, in case it's damaged.
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Old Sep 7, 2006 | 10:13 AM
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I've got a multimeter so I can try that but I doubt I'll see the problem while the engine is idling. The gauge only goes crazy the temperature goes close to 200.
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Old Sep 7, 2006 | 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by CrypTECH
I've got a multimeter so I can try that but I doubt I'll see the problem while the engine is idling. The gauge only goes crazy the temperature goes close to 200.
Yeah, that's why you've got to wiggle and jerk the contact around, trying to simulate what might be happening while you're driving.

When you say the needle is erratic, is it almost violently erratic, or is it just moving back and forth? If it's a short, the needle will almost snap back and forth. If it's actually something like an air bubble in the cooling system, it would be much more gradual.

You'll want to use the multimeter to check the wire for shorts as well. Make sure that you are moving the wire around all along it's length while you are doing it.

I'm trying to keep you from having to go into the gauge cluster! That's when it will become a much bigger PIA!
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Old Sep 7, 2006 | 11:53 AM
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Yeah, it goes violently crazy.
Ok, I'll try the multimeter for sure.

If I have to go in the instrument cluster, so be it, it'll give me a chance to clean things up a bit and maybe fix the clock while I'm at it.
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Old Sep 7, 2006 | 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by CrypTECH
Yeah, it goes violently crazy.
Ok, I'll try the multimeter for sure.

If I have to go in the instrument cluster, so be it, it'll give me a chance to clean things up a bit and maybe fix the clock while I'm at it.
Another thing you can try is to pull the sensor out and check it and the threaded hole for conditions that might prevent a good ground. The sensor actually grounds to the manifold, and if there is corrosion or excess sealant, you might not get a good ground.

Unless your gauge is actually bad (unlikely), and the under hood wiring is good, and you've checked and cleaned the connectors at the firewall, you are most likely going to find the problem is with the Printed Circuit board that supplies signal to the gauges. These things are pretty crappy pieces of work and don't stand up well to repeated tampering. They aint cheap either, for what they are.

Good luck with the clock! I managed to get mine working for a day or two, then it went back to showing the correct time only twice a day.

My stereo has a clock anyway, so I'm probably going to put a transmission temp gauge in place of the clock.

Last edited by cchristo; Sep 7, 2006 at 12:48 PM.
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