1969 427/435
Thread Starter
8th Gear
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
1969 427/435
Gentlemen I need some advise. I'm looking at a 69 427 with 435 intake. The numbers match the year, but it's not the original engine. The paint is new, but not to factory code. The tank sticker says it's a legit L-71 car.
The fenders are flared and has headers, not factory. The interior is pretty good. He wants 25K for it. I think it's worth that, but would like your input.
Thanks.
Bill
The fenders are flared and has headers, not factory. The interior is pretty good. He wants 25K for it. I think it's worth that, but would like your input.
Thanks.
Bill
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From: Cape Cod, Mass.
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Originally Posted by billfr
Gentlemen I need some advise. I'm looking at a 69 427 with 435 intake. The numbers match the year, but it's not the original engine. The paint is new, but not to factory code. The tank sticker says it's a legit L-71 car.
The fenders are flared and has headers, not factory. The interior is pretty good. He wants 25K for it. I think it's worth that, but would like your input.
Thanks.
Bill
The fenders are flared and has headers, not factory. The interior is pretty good. He wants 25K for it. I think it's worth that, but would like your input.
Thanks.
Bill
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,438
Likes: 2
From: Melrose Florida
Value sounds about right, if you are certain it was an original L71. The tank sticker alone is only one piece of documentation, and is somewhat limited in that it does not specifically show the VIN.
For most '69s, the large "grease pencil" 3-digit number hand-written on the tank sticker should match the last three digits of the VIN, or those numbers less 500. A 4-digit number hand-written in pencil (smaller) is often found on '69 tank stickers, and should match the last 4 numbers of the VIN.
Other than that, what Cape Cod said about the NOM, flares, and paint cut back on ultimate value.
Try the VIN against the birthday calculator at the C3 registry, and see if it matches closely the "birthday" of the car from the trim tag.
If not a real L71, should be closer to $20k for an otherwise nice car, and perhaps $30k or better for a real L71 as you've described.
Steve
For most '69s, the large "grease pencil" 3-digit number hand-written on the tank sticker should match the last three digits of the VIN, or those numbers less 500. A 4-digit number hand-written in pencil (smaller) is often found on '69 tank stickers, and should match the last 4 numbers of the VIN.
Other than that, what Cape Cod said about the NOM, flares, and paint cut back on ultimate value.
Try the VIN against the birthday calculator at the C3 registry, and see if it matches closely the "birthday" of the car from the trim tag.
If not a real L71, should be closer to $20k for an otherwise nice car, and perhaps $30k or better for a real L71 as you've described.
Steve
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,944
Likes: 22
From: Yooperville MI
Before you purchase the car, get an estimate for replacing or sectioning body panels to eliminate the flares (unless you can do it yourself) in case someday you decide to restore the car so that you'll be preapared instead of surprised at the expense.
That cost would also be a good negotiation tool for you right now. In my mind a car with flares is harder to sell. Good luck.
That cost would also be a good negotiation tool for you right now. In my mind a car with flares is harder to sell. Good luck.
Thread Starter
8th Gear
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
I found out it is 2K to have the flares removed. Not too bad. I wish I had a picture instead of the blind question. Thanks for the info guys, I'll keep you posted. My dad has a 69 327 hardtop/conv. So I have a very soft spot for the older vettes.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 13,238
Likes: 1,092
From: YANKEES UNIVERSE 70 454-LS5 500 ft-lbs Torque
If it is a REAL 435 the price is not bad.The 68-69 427-435 are slowly but surely on the rise and it s only a matter of time before they begin to skyrocket.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,438
Likes: 2
From: Melrose Florida
A real 435-hp, 67-69, or good clone or tribute car is worth the current prices.
I've just gotten my '69 L71 running (I've had it 1.5 years, before that it was in pieces and outside storage for 10+ years).
That bad boy literally shakes the ground!
I explained to my mother that "running" and "driving" are 2 different things...separated by more time and money. I can't wait to drive it, though, after I fix the brakes.
Steve
I've just gotten my '69 L71 running (I've had it 1.5 years, before that it was in pieces and outside storage for 10+ years).
That bad boy literally shakes the ground!
I explained to my mother that "running" and "driving" are 2 different things...separated by more time and money. I can't wait to drive it, though, after I fix the brakes.
Steve
Thread Starter
8th Gear
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
I have the block number and intake number on my desk at work, however I am home. Both numbers are right for this combo. Car was built in late 68.
Motor was blown and replaced with factory 427 in the later year of 69. Has tri power carbs, did not check numbers, but I am to believe they are right also. I know the guy selling the car. He just got into Harleys and I find myself getting out of them. If nothing else, I should have one hell of a ride.
Bill
Motor was blown and replaced with factory 427 in the later year of 69. Has tri power carbs, did not check numbers, but I am to believe they are right also. I know the guy selling the car. He just got into Harleys and I find myself getting out of them. If nothing else, I should have one hell of a ride.
Bill
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Racer
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 394
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From: Jackson, MS USA
If it is the real deal it is worth it, if the car does not have the cancer real bad. I would take off the windshield pillar molding and look for rust. Also take off the kick panel molding look for flakes of rust. If the cage is rusted, it will all fall just behind the kick panel. If you really do an inspection, take off the trim just behind the front seats and see if the cage is rotten back there. Then crawl under it, and look to see if the dog legs where the frame kicks up (just behind the seats on the frame) to see if there is rust. These areas can all be fixed, but if they are rotten, that may be reflected in the current price. Just take a screw driver and a rubber mallet with you and ask if he minds if you do a little poking and prodding
. Do not ask me how I know these things.
. Do not ask me how I know these things.