Control Valve discard or rebuild
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Control Valve discard or rebuild
I've got a problem that's driving me crazy 
and I've just got to get it solved to move onto the next restoration item on my 72 LT1.....
I've studied Jim Shea's power steering control valve rebuild paper and by the way it's excellent. Mine is apart and I notice that the adaptor housing that the ball stud and seats go into is worn and corroded in one spot - it makes for a little roughness. The rest of the unit will take the seals and will stop the leak. I think Jims paper stated that the adaptor housing will need to be discarded if it is in the shape I've described.
My question is this....Does anyone have an opinion if I should simply buy a rebuilt one, I have several sources where I can get one, or can I make the one I've described work, particularly since the sealing rebuild part of the job will work even if the ball studs seats and housing are not in perfect shape?
Thanks, RGVette
and I've just got to get it solved to move onto the next restoration item on my 72 LT1.....I've studied Jim Shea's power steering control valve rebuild paper and by the way it's excellent. Mine is apart and I notice that the adaptor housing that the ball stud and seats go into is worn and corroded in one spot - it makes for a little roughness. The rest of the unit will take the seals and will stop the leak. I think Jims paper stated that the adaptor housing will need to be discarded if it is in the shape I've described.
My question is this....Does anyone have an opinion if I should simply buy a rebuilt one, I have several sources where I can get one, or can I make the one I've described work, particularly since the sealing rebuild part of the job will work even if the ball studs seats and housing are not in perfect shape?
Thanks, RGVette
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
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From: Saginaw Michigan
You don't mention that your valve is leaking or not. Possibly a ball stud rebuild kit is all that you need. I found one at the Zip Store here on the Forum. It is SC-522 and is listed online. I would think that if the ball stud is worn, it might cause the valve to stick and your power assist to be somewhat erratic.
I think that my paper indicated that if the valve bores are worn or corroded the valve part will have to be discarded. I think that certain amount of corrosion in the adapter will be fixed by using the new ball stud rebuild kit.
Jim
I think that my paper indicated that if the valve bores are worn or corroded the valve part will have to be discarded. I think that certain amount of corrosion in the adapter will be fixed by using the new ball stud rebuild kit.
Jim
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Sorry I didn't mention that the leak is coming from the front where the adjustor nut is. By the looks of things everything in the Valve housing can be sealed (I guess this is where your paper said, if it is worn etc that it must be discarded.)
However, the a portion of the inside of the Adapter Housing is worn as is the corresponding outside of the Ball stud sleeve bearing, do you think I can still fix the problem with a Ball Stud kit? Of course the ball stud and seats are corroded and worn and the Ball Stud kit will solve that problem. Again, it's the Adaptor housing and the outside of the Ball Stud sleeve that concern me mecause they have corresponding wear area.
Thanks, Richard
However, the a portion of the inside of the Adapter Housing is worn as is the corresponding outside of the Ball stud sleeve bearing, do you think I can still fix the problem with a Ball Stud kit? Of course the ball stud and seats are corroded and worn and the Ball Stud kit will solve that problem. Again, it's the Adaptor housing and the outside of the Ball Stud sleeve that concern me mecause they have corresponding wear area.
Thanks, Richard
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
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From: Boca Raton Florida
How bad is the corrosion? Sounds like it missed getting greased for some time in its checkerd past. Get it all clean and dry and see how the sleeve slides in the bore, if it slides ok then when its full of grease it should be ok, if it binds when clean I would replace it. Keep the onl one for spares.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
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From: Saginaw Michigan
Makes sense to me.
Point of information. The original adapters had a zerk fitting and a ball stud seal that had a special nub with a slit to allow excess grease to purge out of the ball stud cavity as you filled it.
Later adapters did not have a zerk fitting and the seal did not have a slit. The seal was expected to hold the grease in place for the life of the vehicle.
So, if you put a new seal (without the purge slit) on an adapter with a zerk fitting, be very careful that you do not overfill and burst the seal from over pressure since the grease has no way of getting out.
Jim
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
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From: Raleigh North Carolina
Also...
It's not just a matter of how easy the parts "slide".
If there is too much wear internally (too much clearance), the parts will slide okay, but the internal seal will not last very long, if at all.
This is what you usually get when you buy a rebuilt unit... a worn out control that will not last very long... somebody elses problems coming back to haunt.
Lots of people complain about getting "junk" when they go cheap and buy rebuilt.... this is the reason they end up sending the valve back.
IMOP.... buy new if you have to replace.
It's not just a matter of how easy the parts "slide".
If there is too much wear internally (too much clearance), the parts will slide okay, but the internal seal will not last very long, if at all.
This is what you usually get when you buy a rebuilt unit... a worn out control that will not last very long... somebody elses problems coming back to haunt.
Lots of people complain about getting "junk" when they go cheap and buy rebuilt.... this is the reason they end up sending the valve back.
IMOP.... buy new if you have to replace.
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Advise you all are giving is terrific. I think the valve portion is pretty good (without wear and coorosion) and after the seals are installed should be leak free and I'm in the process of putting it back together. (By the way I think getting a new one is the best idea, and while I'm putting it back together I can see that I may have problems in the future (too much play in the ball sleeve and seats area because of wear) and I think if I do have problems, I'll just buy a new one. Wished I would have in the first place but for now I have too much invested in rebuilding the old one.
Questions #1 Just so I can orien myself on which direction the lips of the seals go, Do the lips on the anulus seal and the Vee seal face opposite directions? That is how it appears to have come out when I originally took the valve apart.
Question #2 Know where I can get another dust cover, mine's been gone for years
Thanks for all of your help, RGVette Richard
Questions #1 Just so I can orien myself on which direction the lips of the seals go, Do the lips on the anulus seal and the Vee seal face opposite directions? That is how it appears to have come out when I originally took the valve apart.Question #2 Know where I can get another dust cover, mine's been gone for years
Thanks for all of your help, RGVette Richard
Last edited by RGVette; Sep 21, 2006 at 05:33 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 113
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From: Melville, Long Island NY
RG - I purchased a new dust cap from Zip, but I know there are other sources. You may want to check Doctor Rebuild.
I rebuilt mine even though it had corrosion in the ball seat area. Spent lots of time and was very meticulous with my work. Put it back on the car and it started leaking right away.
I ended up purchasing a professionally rebuilt unit from Vette Brakes Products and have had no issues at all.
I hope you have better luck than me or you may want to save your time and effort and go straight to a rebuilt unit.
I rebuilt mine even though it had corrosion in the ball seat area. Spent lots of time and was very meticulous with my work. Put it back on the car and it started leaking right away.
I ended up purchasing a professionally rebuilt unit from Vette Brakes Products and have had no issues at all.
I hope you have better luck than me or you may want to save your time and effort and go straight to a rebuilt unit.
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Thanks for everyone's help. I decided to put the old rebuilt control valve back on the car since I've already put so much time and effort and money into rebuilding it myself - Also I have more time than money. If it begins leaking again as it is suggested it might( because I have some wear on it), then I'll get a new or a rebuilt one.
Thanks again for your assistance
Thanks again for your assistance
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Here is Jin shea's URL for the control valve - very helpful. I just went through this and the paper is very informatinve
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?page_id=4
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?page_id=4