How do you remove stubborn trailing arm bolt
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 6,359
Likes: 428
From: Seattle Area WA
How do you remove stubborn trailing arm bolt
Any suggestions on how to remove the stubborn trailing arm pivot bolts. They will turn but no way do they want to come out.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,725
Likes: 5
From: Minnesota
I'm surprised you have to ask this question after being on this forum for a year and a half.
A sawzall with fine tooth "Fire & Rescue" blades should do the trick. I found with mine that I needed to get all the alignment shims out first since the blades would overheat and go dull almost immediately.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
A sawzall with fine tooth "Fire & Rescue" blades should do the trick. I found with mine that I needed to get all the alignment shims out first since the blades would overheat and go dull almost immediately.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 4,367
Likes: 59
From: FL
Most people use a Sawzall or the Blue Flame Wrench. However, it is possible to get them out if they turn with some work.
Bolt has to go IN, which doesn't help. You don't have a straight shot to use a punch to drive it, so that doesn't help, either. However, if you have the shims out, you can do what I have done sometimes.
First, soak it with pentrating oil. Forget WD40, you need Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster. Spray it on every half hour or so for a few hours. Letting it soak overnight helps.
Then push the trailing arm in. This exposes the maximum of the bolt threaded end. Spray one last shot of prentrating fluid at the bushing. Then coat the bolt with thin oil, like 3 in 1 or some anti-seize.
Grab the bolt on the head end outside the frame (inboard) with Vise Grips, a couple of Cresent wrenches, whatever. The idea is to hold the bolt so it can't move back into the frame.
With a long pry bar or a tie rod fork, pry the trailing arm OUT. You can slide the fork between the TA bushing and the frame on the inside and drive it in, forcing the TA back OUT. Be sure to pry on the bushing as you can bend the arm itself.
Take off the Vise Grips, push the TA in (moving the bolt further in), reapply the ViseGrips, and pry the TA out again.
It is slow, but it works.
Bolt has to go IN, which doesn't help. You don't have a straight shot to use a punch to drive it, so that doesn't help, either. However, if you have the shims out, you can do what I have done sometimes.
First, soak it with pentrating oil. Forget WD40, you need Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster. Spray it on every half hour or so for a few hours. Letting it soak overnight helps.
Then push the trailing arm in. This exposes the maximum of the bolt threaded end. Spray one last shot of prentrating fluid at the bushing. Then coat the bolt with thin oil, like 3 in 1 or some anti-seize.
Grab the bolt on the head end outside the frame (inboard) with Vise Grips, a couple of Cresent wrenches, whatever. The idea is to hold the bolt so it can't move back into the frame.
With a long pry bar or a tie rod fork, pry the trailing arm OUT. You can slide the fork between the TA bushing and the frame on the inside and drive it in, forcing the TA back OUT. Be sure to pry on the bushing as you can bend the arm itself.
Take off the Vise Grips, push the TA in (moving the bolt further in), reapply the ViseGrips, and pry the TA out again.
It is slow, but it works.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,008
Likes: 38
From: Space Coast Gator Territory
IMO half the battle is removing the shims before cutting. I managed to get my shims out first with a slide hammer; same as body shops use for pulling dents. A hook attachment at the end of the hammer shaft will fit into the hole in the shim. After a period of soaking in Kroil and vigorous hammering the shims were out. Now, a sawsall makes fast work of the exposed bolts. It is a tough job, but if you can get the shims out first it will save time IMO.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
If you don't have a sawzall go to the local hardware store and buy one... it will safe you a lot of time and frustration, well worth the $50.....
The new stuff looks sooo much better :
The new stuff looks sooo much better :
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Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
ACE hardware sells Dewalt bi-metal, 14 tooth, 8" Sawzall blade. It's perfect for cutting T/A bolts - I only used 3 to get mine off (4 cuts).
Last edited by I'm Batman; Sep 23, 2006 at 12:36 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
Here is an old thread about cutting the bolts off
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ighlight=lenox
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ighlight=lenox
sawzall. Only way to go.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 6,359
Likes: 428
From: Seattle Area WA
Thanks guys, a cheap Harbor Freight sawzall for $19 and some good fine tooth Dewalt blades and I was set. About 30 minutes and I had them both off, the only way to go!!