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Compressor and air lines......

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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 09:59 AM
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Default Compressor and air lines......

Cool.... just got my compressor yesterday and now I'm trying to get the lines done.

The outlet at the tank is 3/8 NPT, the inlet at my DeVilbiss filter/regulator unit is 1/2 NPT. Great, now I have to add reducers to make the connection. This means another trip to the store


Should I install the filter/regulator close to the tank and use hard lines between the two ?

Here's my plan:

Run 3/8 hard line from tank to filter/regulator. From there run 1/4 hard line to dryer. Install 1/4 quick connector after the dryer to connect hose to.... install another regulator right before the paint gun.

Does that make sense ? I hope I can spray some paint tonight to test the compressor and gun.
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 12:44 PM
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Keep all the lines as large as possible, if you use small lines and then hook up a tool that uses a lot of volume you will have a pressure drop and severely reduced performance.

I have 1/2" everything for that reason.

I would run a U tube after the compressor with either a manual or automatic bleed valve at the bottom, then a water separator after that. I also have automatic oilers on most lines but not all (so i can use those for spraying)
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
Keep all the lines as large as possible, if you use small lines and then hook up a tool that uses a lot of volume you will have a pressure drop and severely reduced performance.

I have 1/2" everything for that reason.

I would run a U tube after the compressor with either a manual or automatic bleed valve at the bottom, then a water separator after that. I also have automatic oilers on most lines but not all (so i can use those for spraying)
Yep, thats about the way I have mine
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 01:06 PM
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The HVLP paint gun is using a lot of volume (I think the manual says 10-12 cfm). The inlet on that gun is 1/4" and the outlet at the reguator is also 1/4"........ that's why I thought 1/4" is sufficient.

HomeDepot doesn't sell a desicant dryer..... darn.... looks like I'll have to order that online....
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 01:08 PM
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You have to have a Grainger or industrial supply house nearby. They will have all you need.
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 01:52 PM
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All I could find was a $300 dryer unit (Fastenal) It's a very nice unit with replaceable desiccant cartridges but a little more than I want to spend....

I found this on Ebay, what do you think ???

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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 01:54 PM
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Like Marck I run nothing but 1/2 inch lines. Mine are all 1/2 inch copper with normal soft solder making all the connections.
Run them just like water lines. At work all our lines are normal soft copper also and we run 110 pounds, my shop runs 135 pounds without a problem.
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 01:54 PM
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I don't mean a paint gun by high volume requirement, I was thinking more along the lines of a blasting caibenet, a die grinder or angle grinder..that sorta stuff.
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by RedBad1979
HomeDepot doesn't sell a desicant dryer..... darn.... looks like I'll have to order that online....
How are you going to keep the desicant dry with normal usage. Running and impact, blowing parts off etc etc doesn't require desicant.
We only use it for the plasma cutting and use a normal seperator for painting and nothing for normal shop air.
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 02:56 PM
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Surprisingly enough, Harbor Freight has a pretty good filter assembly - it's the blue one that looks like something from a submarine.
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
I don't mean a paint gun by high volume requirement, I was thinking more along the lines of a blasting caibenet, a die grinder or angle grinder..that sorta stuff.
hmmmm..... a blast cabinet would be nice..... stop giving me ideas, I already exceeded my tool budget for this year
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
How are you going to keep the desicant dry with normal usage. Running and impact, blowing parts off etc etc doesn't require desicant.
We only use it for the plasma cutting and use a normal seperator for painting and nothing for normal shop air.
I wouldn't use a dryer for tools (like an impact or a grinder).
I'm not an expert when it comes to painting but I thought one of the most important things is clean and dry air supply..... I was told a dryer is required.... not ???

I would think the desiccant dryer can be sealed so that moisture is not getting in there when it's not in use..... maybe that's why you get the free humidity indicator with the dryer, that way you know when to discard the dryer and buy a new one....

maybe the desiccant can be dried in an oven ?? I know f.e. desiccant bags can be dried and re-used.....
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by RedBad1979
I wouldn't use a dryer for tools (like an impact or a grinder).
I'm not an expert when it comes to painting but I thought one of the most important things is clean and dry air supply..... I was told a dryer is required.... not ???

I would think the desiccant dryer can be sealed so that moisture is not getting in there when it's not in use..... maybe that's why you get the free humidity indicator with the dryer, that way you know when to discard the dryer and buy a new one....

maybe the desiccant can be dried in an oven ?? I know f.e. desiccant bags can be dried and re-used.....
You definately need to use a filter dryer (not a dessicant dryer) for any tools, or you will get them full of water. The blue HF one that I mentioned pulls a ton of water out of my air.
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 05:45 PM
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I ran 1/2" copper through my garage. I purchased a dessicant air dryer from Princess Auto (kinda like a Canadian Harbor Freight) for $44 + $22 for the dessicant. I run my whole air system through this dryer, water is not good for air tools of any sort! I also rung a filter after the dryer to get rid of any dessicant dust.
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by RedBad1979
I would think the desiccant dryer can be sealed so that moisture is not getting in there when it's not in use..... maybe that's why you get the free humidity indicator with the dryer, that way you know when to discard the dryer and buy a new one....

maybe the desiccant can be dried in an oven ?? I know f.e. desiccant bags can be dried and re-used.....
I'll go back into my past with industrial air compessors and associated equipment.

A proper dessicant dryer has pellets of material that absorb the moisture. the moisture is removed through a regen cycle the bed of pellets has hot air or compressed air blown through it at high volume. This removes the water from the pellets and allows them to suck more moisture out of the compressed air. Most small dryers especially small units are not dessicant dryers even though they are called that.

I have and what is cheaply available to the DIY'r, is properly refered to as a deliquesant dryer. The pellets react chemically with the water in the air forcing it to condense (as a weak acid) which you have to periodically purge from the bottom of the vessel. The pellets are expended in the drying of the air.

When an auto plant paint's a car, you are guaranteed the air used is dried with a dessicant air dryer. They provide the lowest dewpoint of dried air out there. When I worked at a auto plant we installed a 10,000 CFM dessicant drier that provided -40 degF dewpoint air.
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 09:36 PM
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Several people I know run 1/2" out of the compressor tank, into an adapter to the center of a Tee of a much larger size. Line going down is larger (1 to 2 inch) with a petcock on the bottom. Line going up is larger, with a tee 6 inches from top. This going into another similar line and the lower tee is the output to the shop.

These two large expansion pipes drain a lot of water from the air before ever getting to the dryer.
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 10:13 PM
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Here are some links. The refrigerated driers are obviously the best.

Decent
http://cgi.ebay.com/Ultra-Air-Refrig...QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/COMPAIR-KELLOG-A...QQcmdZViewItem


Cheapo
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mac-T...33025356QQrdZ1
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 10:33 PM
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Thanks for all the info

I should have mentioned that I already have what "they" (the people who sold me all that stuff) call a water separator. One separator is in the filter/regulator unit, another water trap can be placed anywhere in the line, it has 1/4 female NPTs.

I was told that these two water traps (separators) are good enough for any air tool. I'll install an oiler for air tools, just have to remember which hose I'm using so I don't get it mixed up with the hose that I'm using for the paint gun...

Here's the filter/regulator/water trap that I got (I looked at Harbor Freight's blue unit, looks like I paid too much...):

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Old Oct 3, 2006 | 12:13 AM
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For what it's worth, I spent years doing "back yard" body work and I found the most effective water trap was one that I made myself.

I got a piece of 1/2" copper pipe, about 15' long. Putting that at approximately a 30 degree angle, I then soldered 3 x 2' "down" pipes to it from the same material. At the bottom of these pipes, I put a small tap. This whole contraption was then attached to a wall.

At the low end of the angled piece, I attached the line from the compressor and commercial water trap and at the high end was the outlet.

I found after spraying for a few hours, or especially when using high volume tools like a random orbital sander etc... that there was always water in the first "down" pipe. It cost next to nothing to make and was very effective.

JMHO
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Old Oct 3, 2006 | 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by noonie
Here are some links. The refrigerated driers are obviously the best.
I'll dis agree with you on that. Dessicant are the best. Refridge's are good and in a lot of case the proper drier for the job.... but not the best.

IF you are going to paint 2 water separator's is not good enough. You run a high chance putting water into your paint..... and that doesn't look pretty and is a bitch to fix.
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