Can somebody confirm if there is supposed to be a background light on the oil temp , water temp etc guages on the center console of an 82 CE
When I put the headlights on ,the speedo/rev counter console lights as I would expect but there is no light on the center console guages - is this correct or am I missing something obvious?

 

Yes, it's a special fisheye bulb that shines down from just above the air duct outlet.

 

The "special fisheye bulb" does not illuminate the gauges, it's purpose is to illuminate the Heater/AC control by shining down on it from above.

The guages themselves should be illuminated, the same as the speedo and tach.

The center console electronics utilize a flexible printed circuit board that is in all likelyhood pretty much shot by now.

On the other hand, if the gauges are working, but just the lights are out, you might just have to replace the bulbs.

 

I had the same problem. Speedo/tach was lighting up but nothing else. The problem was where the plug went into the printed circuit board at the rear of the center cluster. some of the copper tracks has shifted. Take the cluster out and play around with it. If you see any breaks in the copper...you need to replace the circuit or repair it.

Jim

 

Thanks to all for you replies
Can you give me some info about how to get at the bulbs to se if they are blown - I removed the 4 screws around the outside of the guage bezel that screw into the dash but the bezel would not move - do I need to remove all of the guages before I can remove the bezel?
That sounds like a big job - probably less hassle to only drive her during the day

 

You have to loosen the upper dash pad.

 

That is for the early 3 piece dash design. 78-82 use a one piece dash.

To get the gauge panel out, you have to remove the carpeted console side panels. There are three screws in each. I always remove the seats to make the rear screw easy to get to, some people don't. There are six screws that hold the center gauge panel in place. The two you don't see are underneath the mating point of the shifter plate and the gauge panel, thus the necessity to remove the console sides.

If you can remove the glove box insert, you can reach the backside of the gauges through the opening, although it isn't as easy to see the back of the panel.

 

 

I had a feeling that was the case - got to have the seats out again in the next week or two so will have a look then
Thanks to all who took the time to post responses - much appreciated

 

Britt...are you talking about the center cluster...where the oil pressure guage is? You don't need to remove the consol plate....some do though...it makes it a bit easier. Remove the screws around the cluster. Remove the carpeted side panels. Get at the the two screws that hold the center cluster to the consol plate....underneath.

Usually the radio keeps it (cluster) from coming out. I first remove my after market radio...no much play in the radiio harness to pull the cluster out.


Two ways to get it out...

Gently pull down on it to clear the top dash pad....the wire and bulb up top gets hung up...you may have to remove the socket up there for that bulb.Once you have space you definitely need to unattach the wires for that bulb...they are short...two screws. Once you have cleared the top it will come out.

Other way is to gently lift from the bottom. Carefully clear the defrost **** and A/C controls. Your shifter will then be in the way. While removing it...put the shifter in the low gear position....don't forget to have a foot on the brake. Assuming the radio is out. You still need to unplug the light socket at the top.....once the bulb is out you will notice the wires for that bulb are held to the cluster by two screws...need to remove the screws...you need to do this because those wires aren't very long.

The biggest problem is the radio and that top bulb wiring. Once these two are out of the equation there is enough room to pull the cluster out...once out...twist it sideways....access the harness plug for the guages. The plug has a compressible clip on the top and bottom...compress both at the same time and pull it out. The cluster should be free. Examine the cooper circuit board for breaks. You will feel comfortable once you are at this point. Play around...change bulbs...plug the harness in again...check lights...you can do this without actually reinstalling it.

Most guys stick the wrong bulb in the top. The one that shines down on the A/C contro is more powerful and different then the cluster bulbs...get the right one.

You can also get LED bulbs now that fit into those sockets. Much brighter.

Lastly make sure the harness plug goes back in positioned correctly. Old car circuit board probably has loosened up. The harness plug has to hit the tracks on the circuit board. Once you have pluggeg it back and before intalling it. Start the car...turn the lights on...make sure all the guages work...if all is okay you have installed the plug correctly.

Jim

 

Jim,
Thanks for the explanation , makes things much easier, as I said I am going to be having the seats out again in a week or so (waiting for stuff in the mail) So will be able to easily remove the carpet side panels.
I will then get to take a good look at what the problem is
Will post the results when I get it sorted
Thanks again
Paul

 

My gauge lights quit working on me when I installed a new radio and I could not find anything wrong so I started to take my gauge set out when I had the glove box end off I looked behind the gauges to see if I saw anything wrong and the big plug was partly out. I pushed it in and it worked fine!!

 

The number one cause for the cluster lights not working is the plug....a hint that its the problem is if the speedo/tach lights work only. Even if the plug is in it could be the problem. The copper circuit boad tends to shift in the plug area. If it shifts proper contact is not being made.

Jim