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Hi guys I am jumping over from the C-2 side. A friend just called me and told me about a 68 for sale. I called the owner and here is the info. 1968 vert no hard top. Red black leather int. one small chip in paint.427/390 hp #'s match 4 speed. rally wheels red line tires?? owned for 11years parade car. Brakes are soft. $25K OBO she slipped
$20K will take the car. Is this a good deal??? I am going to look at the car tommorrow What should,I look for??? Not to savy on the C-3's
Thanks in advance
Take a jack, and look the entire frame over. Look for rust or rot anywhere. Check the suspension and brake lines and calipers. Also, inside, remove the kick panels and look for rust. If the seller will let you...take down the A-pillar trim and look for rust. Check if the lights go up and down, and when you jack the rear end up, watch to see if the yokes pull out of the pumpkin at all.
ROE (rules of engagement) from Durango are spot on. A-pillars and kick panels will indicate the status of the "birdcage". If you find rot behind the A-pilars or kick panels, you need to give serious thought; potential repairs are very time consuming and costly.
I would ask about history, i.e., # of owners, what climates the car has been exposed to? (NE, NW, SE, SW, Central etc). I would say SW is best -- my car is a Vegas car, every bolt came off no problem and no rust.
Mileage? Has motor, tranny, clutch, rear been rebuilt? If so, how long ago?
Soft brakes most likely means leaking calipers or a need for bleeding. Unfortunately, vette brake calipers require periodic bleeding whether they are used regularly or not.
68s received a considerable amount of criticism due to their engineering shortfalls when compared to earlier models. However, this is 2007 and this car represents a piece of automotive history the critics of yesteryear could not forsee...(off my soap container)
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If you can get that car for $20 to $25,000 it would be a real good deal for an original big block. Really, the same kinds of important issues you would check on a mid year apply to the 68. The frame and bird cage issues are similar. Check the numbers, date codes. There are alot of vacuum issues with the headlights and wipers that the mid years don't have. Check out the "fiber optics" on the console. Those can be a problem as well. The 68 is a great driving car if you get a nice one. Good luck.
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Originally Posted by capevettes
If you can get that car for $20 to $25,000 it would be a real good deal for an original big block. Really, the same kinds of important issues you would check on a mid year apply to the 68. The frame and bird cage issues are similar. Check the numbers, date codes. There are alot of vacuum issues with the headlights and wipers that the mid years don't have. Check out the "fiber optics" on the console. Those can be a problem as well. The 68 is a great driving car if you get a nice one. Good luck.
Sounds like a STEAL OF A DEAL if the car is all there, barring any rust & documentation included !! post some pics, keep us updated !!
Depending on frame condition and how many original parts are needed, or more specifically, not needed, $25K would be a darn good deal. Might be worth closer to $30 if it is a complete car.
I went and looked at the car. pretty nice. It has the original 427 motor and trans. I could not find a suffix on the rear but it has the heavy duty half shafts and a rear sway bar. Frame is solid but has lots of surface rust. 91k miles of grime. Lots of oil around the pumkin. Headlights and wipers work perfect. Car runs good.Car is red with blk int.but trim tag say it should be corvette bronze with dark orange int. I offered $20K and they will get back to me. I do not no how to post pics but can email to someone if they want to post'em .
All the oil and grime is a good thing. If the engine has been leaking int he past and coated most of the undercarriage you won't have to worry much about rust where the oil and sludge it.