Step-byStep remove trailing arms?
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
From: Brampton Ontario
07:Pull out the cotter key and spin off the control arm mounting bolt nut. Now while supporting the control arm, tap the mounting bolt out of the control arm. When it is free, remove the control arm from the car.
Yeah Right!!!...Why do they publish such total Crap?
...They make it almost sound like a 5 min job!!!
At least this forum gives honest and truthful advice!!
Sawzall, S**t pile of blades, BMF hammer, patience and Lots of Beer!!!
Last edited by Rander; Jan 24, 2007 at 02:34 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
Rick B.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 334
Likes: 0
From: York PA
77/350- the trailing arms, if you think of them as your forearm or legs pivot on your knees or elbows. Trailing arms pivot on the bushings. The bushings, as originals, or at least in 77 were rubber and as a matter of torque, age and conditions like road salt cause it to break down over time. The newer poly bushing are supposed to be a modern alternative, which I upgraded to but have not yet formed an opinon on. And of course the shims you see in the cavity bring the arms in and/or out -essential for a proper alignment. The old harware was steel which rusts into a sold mass and the new is stainless making getting into the cavity again much easier. The shocks take the brunt of the vertical abuse from trailing arm to frame. Remembering that the axels are attached from the rear to the wheels (on the trailing arm) there is but one brace on either side that restricts all other horizontal movement. So you have side to side and up and down energy which translates into a semi rotational energy. But guess where all that movment or energy is tied to - the trailing arm bushings. So if I were to define the trailing arm I'd say it does all the above.
chuck
chuck
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnati Ohio
07:Pull out the cotter key and spin off the control arm mounting bolt nut. Now while supporting the control arm, tap the mounting bolt out of the control arm. When it is free, remove the control arm from the car.
Yeah Right!!!...Why do they publish such total Crap?
...They make it almost sound like a 5 min job!!! At least this forum gives honest and truthful advice!!
Sawzall, S**t pile of blades, BMF hammer, patience and Lots of Beer!!!
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
Likes: 9
What's up with the sawzalls here, have some patience. I have removed many of these arms and NEVER had to use a sawzall. The cars ranged from rust piles to drivers to nice maintained cars. They all came out with some patience. The trick was to use a small angle air wrench and get that bolt spinning. Once it's spinning it'll come out fairly easy w/ a long pair of pliers and a 3 jaw grabbing hook thingie (what are they called, pull lever at the end and the 3 dr. octopus jaws open, release to close???) Also, some rost off ice does miracles.
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Advanced
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
From: Lake Charles LA
Geeez, I guess I must be livin' right. Just pulled my trailing arms yesterday to change the original rubber to poly bushings. It took about an hour per side and most of that was spent drinking a couple beers and watching the COT's duke it out while the liqiud wrench did it's thing. No sawblades involved either.... of course my frame has almost no rust on it. No salt on the roads down here in Louisiana you know.
Now...all I got to do is get the old bushings out.
Steve
Now...all I got to do is get the old bushings out.
Steve
Pro
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 592
Likes: 0
From: ElP TX
How to remove pivot bolt
How do you get to the inside of the pivot bolt, pull it out, and put a new one in? The brake line bracket is in the way? The nut is easy enough to get to.
click/enlarge
click/enlarge
Last edited by GlockGuy; Apr 15, 2007 at 12:48 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,227
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta Ga
i always "punch" mine out with a air hammer and pointed bit...normally take about secs per side
i think the key is to take loose the spring so theres no pressure, and support the trailing arm assembly woth a floor jack
i think the key is to take loose the spring so theres no pressure, and support the trailing arm assembly woth a floor jack
Pro
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 552
Likes: 2
From: Waynesboro GA
Pro
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 592
Likes: 0
From: ElP TX
The problem I see is that the inboard side of the pivot bolt is "boxed in" with frame obstructions to include the brake bracket, preventing a human hand from reaching in to pull the bolt out and insert the new bolt. Hopefully I am overlooking something here. At wjat angle are you guys attacking this bolt at when putting in the new one?
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: Wadsworth, Ohio oh
Thanks JustForFun,
The problem I see is that the inboard side of the pivot bolt is "boxed in" with frame obstructions to include the brake bracket, preventing a human hand from reaching in to pull the bolt out and insert the new bolt. Hopefully I am overlooking something here. At wjat angle are you guys attacking this bolt at when putting in the new one?
The problem I see is that the inboard side of the pivot bolt is "boxed in" with frame obstructions to include the brake bracket, preventing a human hand from reaching in to pull the bolt out and insert the new bolt. Hopefully I am overlooking something here. At wjat angle are you guys attacking this bolt at when putting in the new one?
