Advice? I need to buy a scanner. I see widely varying prices. Recommendations? I have 1997 and 1998 Fords and a late model Cadillac. I see a whole lot of scanners on ebay seling for $35 to $90 dollars. Also, some at $200, $400-$500, and finally a Solus Elite from Snap-On at $3695.00. I know absolutely nothing about scanners. I'd like one that just told me the problem; i.e. bad O2 sensor, bad MAP sensor, etc. Can anyone provide some "Scanner 101" info. Thanks. Apologies for being slightly off topic. Maybe a posting in the C4/C5 group would be better, but I think the C3 forum is more attuned to working on their cars.

 

Just curious, why do you think you need one?

 

Because my "Check Engine Light" comes on occassionally in my cars. The dealers want $80+ to give you a diagnostic reading (although if you let them repair the car, they don't charge the $80.00) Also, it's happened twice now (last time just yesterday) that the Check Engine Light" comes just before I take the car in for a smog check. The smog people will not test the car if the "Check Engine Light" is on. I was going to take my T-Bird in for a smog check today, but the Check Engine Light came on yesterday!!!!!!

I would like to try to repair my cars myself if the problem is simple enough: i.e. 02 sensor, MAP sensor, etc.

 

AutoZone here will scan for free and tell you what the code is. Try the local parts house and see if one around you does it.

I bought a cheapy a few days ago and have played with it a little. It came with a list of codes and instructions on how to use it. The service engine lite was on in my suburban, had it checked at AutoZone turned out to be the O2 sensor heater circut problem, checked it with my new toy, indicated same thing. I like to work on my own vehicals so I bought one for myself. The bottom of the line will not clear the codes from the computor, I stepped up one notch and got one that will clear the codes. I say go for it.

Neal

 

I just wondered how involved you wanted to go. You can reset some by diconnecting the battery. The better scanners will give you more codes too.
Here is a good link.

http://www.autotap.com/?s=shareresults.com

The kit for a laptop is pretty good from what I hear. I have a friend that has the good Snapon and modules so I just use his.

 

I bought an $80 Innova last summer and don't regret it at all. It gives you all the codes and let's you turn off the "check engine" light. I've fixed 3 different cars with it now, including a cam position sensor on my brother's BMW. The other two problems were minor emission system problems. It works well to get the code and Google it along with the make and model of car and you'll probably find out exactly what the problem is. Of course it's not as good as the really expensive units along with all the fancy manuals but it has a good chance of getting the job done.

 

Thanks guys (jdmick, chevymans77, and noonie) for replying! Also, Noonie, I will try that "disconnect the battery" reboot. I thought of that, but your comment was the first to indicate that it will work. Some computer logic has associated capacitors that will maintain logic states for some time after battery power is removed. I'll disconnect my battery and let the computer set overnight before powering it up again.

Thanks for the website recommendation.

 

Go to autotap like noonie suggested and sign up for their free newsletter.
Even if you don't buy their product, you will get weekly or monthly newsletters via e-mail on how different sensros and check engine stuff works. Very informative and helpful. I haven't bought their product yet but am convinced it is pretty good based on what I have read it can find and diagnose.

 

Most OBD2 ('96 up) codes will not reset by disconnecting the battery.

 

Remember if you disconnect the battery or clear the codes with a scanner, the car still won't pass the test because the I/M codes will read "incomplete". Here in NY you can have (2) incomplete codes as long as the rest read "OK". If you clear the codes you will need to complete a drive cycle, each manufacturer has a different drive code cycle before the I/M test will read "OK" for the inspection shop.

I have the Actron CP9145..it is also is good for OBD-1, OBD-2 and the new "CAN" protocol ...I love this machine (on Ebay for about $100+-).

If you buy a scanner, make sure you can read "real time" engine PID data (Parameter Identification Data). The scanners that Autozone use for customers only gives you a number code. If it codes your car for "example only" an O2 sensor, it could be a vacumm leak (or bad fuel ie water) and not the O2 sensor. With the real time view, you can monitor the O2 sensor to be sure that it is working (cross counting voltage etc).

If you buy a scanner, make sure it reads and erases codes, and can read data "real time", then make sure it reads or can be upgraded to the new standard CAN (Controller Area Network) that "all cars" are changing to. The cheap ones only display the code number (and erases), then you have to look up the code in a book etc. My Actron CP9145 gives the code and also displays what the code means (handy). I can actually hook it up to a car and monitor the engine as it is being driven (have someone drive the car while you monitor).

There are several out there.