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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 10:15 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by bondoboy
Use a single stage urethane if you want it to look more like original. I know clearcoat jobs have a different look. You can tell that the paint is buried under a clear coat.
Thats what I did with my '69. I used PPG Global Single Stage Urethane. It's Daytona Yellow. It is hard to tell from lacquer job since I sanded and buffed out all the orange peel.

I wouldn't do it with a metallic color however since color sanding messes up the metallics. You would have to be a darned experienced painter to spray Single Stage with little or no orange peel.
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 10:36 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by SEVNT6
I've had the purest type come up to my car and look at my cloudy factory paint and front fender bonding strips and think it's the most beautiful thing they ever saw. And it's fun to say it's original. But if and when the day comes for paint, the imperfections are gone. I think it should look like a Bill Mitchell drawing. And I'm sure he didn't draw bonding strips into any of his pictures....
HA HA HA
That is what mine looks like

Not to hijack the thread, but a quick queston

I just got a 71 with the original Steel Cities Gray paint. It is cloudy and faded in places and you can see all the bonding strips. At some point I am going to repaint it, but for now I was going to try put a little shine to it. All I have is an orbital. What would you suggest to use to do that. I tried some cleaner wax on it and it worked pretty good, but not good enough.

Back to the question at hand. Am I correct in assuming that the orignal laquer must be sanded off before painting with bc/cc?

Thanks
Glenn in San Diego
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 11:48 PM
  #23  
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Ever try a clay bar? I did for the first time last year and I turned yellow clay black with the crud that came off. If you have some oxidation I like Zimol best as far as a cleaner wax.
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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 09:00 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by roger55
Thats what I did with my '69. I used PPG Global Single Stage Urethane. It's Daytona Yellow. It is hard to tell from lacquer job since I sanded and buffed out all the orange peel.

I wouldn't do it with a metallic color however since color sanding messes up the metallics. You would have to be a darned experienced painter to spray Single Stage with little or no orange peel.
Wow lots of different thoughts on this one. I can get the Lacquer paint but it is pricey... but cost is not the real issue at this point since there is some significant other work being performed to get the car where it should be. There are several different options, good thing it is a non metallic color. I may just go this route. Does anyone know what the difference would be to the value of the car? Anyway, I want to thank everyone for their thoughts on this issue. It is a difficult decision for me, guess I might need to just flip a coin? Thanks again guys this Forum is the best!
Regards,
Lou
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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 10:05 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 71LT1 Vette
Wow lots of different thoughts on this one. I can get the Lacquer paint but it is pricey... but cost is not the real issue at this point since there is some significant other work being performed to get the car where it should be. There are several different options, good thing it is a non metallic color. I may just go this route. Does anyone know what the difference would be to the value of the car? Anyway, I want to thank everyone for their thoughts on this issue. It is a difficult decision for me, guess I might need to just flip a coin? Thanks again guys this Forum is the best!
Regards,
Lou
Since you are having the car painted by professional and cost is not the concern for you, I would go ahead and have them do a BC/CC job. I would also have them strip the entire car, use an epoxy primer first then a urethane or polyester primer for blocking the car flat.

Here is a good link to Southern Polyurethane Inc.'s info on the best procedure for the perfect paint job:
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com...ct%20paint.htm

The major expense in labor hours of a job like this is really in the stripping and in the blocking.

I would not be concerned about the value of the car not having the original lacquer paint. I think your value will be the same. Use the best technology possible and enjoy the car knowing that you don't have to worry about how long a lacquer job will last you.

Last edited by roger55; Feb 3, 2007 at 10:09 AM.
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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 10:31 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by roger55
I would not be concerned about the value of the car not having the original lacquer paint. I think your value will be the same. Use the best technology possible and enjoy the car knowing that you don't have to worry about how long a lacquer job will last you.
Unless your car is to be displayed as a museum piece,
this option makes the most sense. My car was stripped, blocked,
etc, then shot with BC/CC 4 years ago.
At no point have ever wished it had been refinished in lacquer.
It looks great, and is holding up great.
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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 10:35 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by VettePower
If you are looking for a Top Flight Award, then Laquer is it. If you are just building a great ride then BC/CC is the only way to go!!
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