Anyone tried this for rust removal?
Drifting
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,425
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From: Seattle Wash.
Really cool
Using this tip, I'll throw my chassis in my neighbors swimming pool with the Arm & Hammer soap and my battery charger (Using HIS power of course) when he's not looking and get ALL the rust off...
Actually, that might work for some of the small stuff I need to de-rust.
Thanks!
Using this tip, I'll throw my chassis in my neighbors swimming pool with the Arm & Hammer soap and my battery charger (Using HIS power of course) when he's not looking and get ALL the rust off...
Actually, that might work for some of the small stuff I need to de-rust.Thanks!
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St. Jude Donor '09
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From: Columbia Missouri
I would like to see what happens if a thin rusty body panel were treated like this. Would it eat through the panel too even where it's not rusty. I know you can't leave it in too long...but will the rust come off before the metal breaks down?
Cruising
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 13
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From: Marine on St. Croix Minnesota
Have any of you used the Molasses soak to remove rust and crude? It's much slower but very effective on getting everything out of water jackets, etc. You mix 1 part molasses to five parts hot water, hot water helps melt the molasses. An engine block needs to soak for about six months but when you pull it out and pressure wash it all the rust and crude in the water jackets is gone. Smaller parts clean up in a shorter period of time. Almost forgot, you have to clean away the grease and oil before setting the parts in the molasses. The good thing about this after you're all done you can just dump the molasses and water mixture in your garden.
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Thread Starter
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St. Jude Donor '11, '16-'17
The whole point is that it's not supposed to eat the metal.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Columbia Missouri
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Florida
Have any of you used the Molasses soak to remove rust and crude? It's much slower but very effective on getting everything out of water jackets, etc. You mix 1 part molasses to five parts hot water, hot water helps melt the molasses. An engine block needs to soak for about six months but when you pull it out and pressure wash it all the rust and crude in the water jackets is gone. Smaller parts clean up in a shorter period of time. Almost forgot, you have to clean away the grease and oil before setting the parts in the molasses. The good thing about this after you're all done you can just dump the molasses and water mixture in your garden.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Columbia Missouri
Isn't that what machine shops do when they dip and clean them?
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St. Jude Donor '11, '16-'17
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From: Florida
Many many moons ago they used a hot caustic soda solution, but the EPA doesn't like that any more.
I just use the muriatic for the water jackets if the engine is out of the car. Let it sit on the flywheel, tape the rad hoses togehter and fill. Wait about 10 minutes and drain and neutralize with baking soda. Then knock out all freeze plugs and flush out plug debris.
Will end up like day 1 clean.
I just use the muriatic for the water jackets if the engine is out of the car. Let it sit on the flywheel, tape the rad hoses togehter and fill. Wait about 10 minutes and drain and neutralize with baking soda. Then knock out all freeze plugs and flush out plug debris.
Will end up like day 1 clean.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 334
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From: York PA
77/350 - 
I am curious about the battery charger. I think mine has (3) settings lo-Med High charge rate and then it shuts itself off after the charge level has been made. I think that because this 5 gal bucket contains so much liquid by volume that it would never see the charge level and run forever or to distruction. Anybody have any ideas?
chuck
I am curious about the battery charger. I think mine has (3) settings lo-Med High charge rate and then it shuts itself off after the charge level has been made. I think that because this 5 gal bucket contains so much liquid by volume that it would never see the charge level and run forever or to distruction. Anybody have any ideas?chuck
Cruising
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Marine on St. Croix Minnesota
I've used the battery charger/washing soda cleaning method but I like the results of the molasses better. If you use the battery charger, attach copper wire to the part and submerse the part keeping the copper wire to attach the aligator clip. If you attach the aligator clip submersed in the solution eventually the aligator clip will get eaten away.
Wally
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From: Carbondale Pa.
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From: Florida
Noonie, the reason I use molasses is it can be easily disposed of where muriatic acid is not. Sure it takes time but when I'm done I just dump it in the garden or in the field. On smaller parts it only takes a couple weeks.
I've used the battery charger/washing soda cleaning method but I like the results of the molasses better. If you use the battery charger, attach copper wire to the part and submerse the part keeping the copper wire to attach the aligator clip. If you attach the aligator clip submersed in the solution eventually the aligator clip will get eaten away.
Wally
I've used the battery charger/washing soda cleaning method but I like the results of the molasses better. If you use the battery charger, attach copper wire to the part and submerse the part keeping the copper wire to attach the aligator clip. If you attach the aligator clip submersed in the solution eventually the aligator clip will get eaten away.
Wally
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,589
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From: Salisbury Maryland
Loctite makes a great product called EXTEND. It's made to stop rust from advancing. Remove loose rust and apply directly on to the rusted surface. Let dry, paint if needed. Stuff works great. I used it on my mother-in-laws dump cart, great results.
Anyone used it on a Vette?
Anyone used it on a Vette?