Well this thing is driving me crazy. Car specs first-1976 L82 A/C &TH350 tranny to start. I checked the archives and found others with the same problem. Their fix seamed to be easy, mines a PITA

Heres what happened. I pulled the 5 gauge console to remore the broke OEM clock and install new consol lamps. I pulled out all 5 or 6 lamps which some were burnt out. I replaced like 2 or 3 and pulled the light switch to see if the new ones would light. They did, cool on to plugging in the rest of them. All installed, tried light switch 1 click- nothing. Pulled out all the way- nothing, not even headlights. (headlight were already up since I did the headlamps and new horns the day before) Turn on ign, nothing no blinker, no starter! Not even a click. Battery has 12.8 VDC

Now I'm getting POed, Always some goofy setback. I jacked it up and braced w/ stands, slide under with a voltmeter and find 12.7 VDC at solenoid terminal. I figure its the fusible links on the two fuse panel wires that hook to the same terminal right? .... Heck no. They seamed ok. So I cut them off and test them- they're fine- Oh well, they're cut off now. I'll just splice in an equivalent later. Meanwhile, all I want is power to the fuse box to finish buttoning up the console, remember that was my original 30 minute job!

So I take the 2 wire and clamp them to the +battery lead, just like if it were on the solenoid terminal, only now there is no fuseible link. still no power at the fuse block.. geeezzzz.

(Sorry this is long- tring to give info for those great electricians out there)

Next I disconnect the + lead at the battery. Tried a continuity between the neg battery terminal and fuse block with good results. I would think its not a ground problem then, right?? Now I don't know which way to go. Are there more fusible links on those 2 fuse panel supply wires? I did see at least two fusable links on the engine bay side of the fire wall opposite of the fuse panel but can't get my big hands in there due to the power brake assy. Plus the wires are covered in road grime so I cant tell if they the same wires.. any thoughs? THANKS FOR ASSISTANCE

 

Did you check the fuseable link down by the starter?

 

[QUOTEI figure its the fusible links on the two fuse panel wires that hook to the same terminal right? .... Heck no. They seamed ok. So I cut them off and test them- they're fine- Oh well, they're cut off now. I'll just splice in an equivalent later. Meanwhile, all I want is power to the fuse box to finish buttoning up the consoleQUOTE]

If your talking about these two at the + solenoid terminal, YES. I even bypassed them still with no luck....

 

I'm working off a '72 diagram and it shows 3 links, one at the starter, one at the fuse panel and one at the horn relay, yours may be slightly different. In order for mine to loose power to the panel, one of the first two needs to be blown. Check and see if there is another link protecting your panel.

 

Correction, I've got two links at the horn relay one orange and one black, the black feeds the fuse panel. Sorry, don't mean to send you all over the place.

 

No problem, Thanks for the help! BTW-Hanes manuals aren't very helpful. Cheesy electrical data there... they don't even show them let alone mention these fusable linkes. What does one do when they go bad? Splice in a new one? Wonder why they just dont use like a 30 amp in-line replaceable one? I need a REAL vette manual now.

Anyways, I think I see two more links where all the wires go through the fire wall (eng side) to the back side of the fuse panel. I dont know what to do with them- if they even are the power supply wires?? Hard to reach- I wish I could just pull the fender off to access this particular spot. Maybe I'll just run a by-pass wire to rule out any possible ground issues.

 

My drawing is showing two links protecting the fuse panel, the orange one down by the solenoid and the black one at the horn relay. Lets hope the differences between the years aren't too significant.

As far as replacement, you can get 'em at Autozone, they splice in.

 

Update- well, I went out to the garage hooked up the battery and pull the light switch on, popped the hood and messed around trying to get my big paws in where I was saying I saw 2 other fuse links. I checked the Alternator and found 12.7 VDC-cool. Then traced the wire to the old factory Alarm system- the area on the inside of the fender where the key switch for arming is. Looks like there has been some cutting and splicing in this area. I pulled some of the slack out of the wires to check under the mystyrous blob of old black electrical tape and bam- light came on. I found the problem area anyways. I think the whole OEM alarm system will be removed and some proper soldering and heatshrink will be in order. That is when it gets warmer

 

Let me recommend a drawing that outshines them all. Don Olsen produces a huge (~2.5' x 3.5') laminated drawing complete with vacuum schematic, I think he's a member here and in the archives.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...41&postcount=3

Glad you found your problem.

 

BTW, Thanks for your help Shafrs3, You kept me on the right track!