"THAT'S A WRAP" !!! More pics coming.

Finished up the rear end rebuild project I started on 1/15/07. I'm very happy with the finished results, not so happy with the itemized list of costs!
I did learn a few things during the process that I thought I'd share, they may help to save some time and headaches for the next Guy.
This is a "78" but most applies to all C3's.

1) The proper torque value for the spring retainer plate is as follows:
** 35-50 NM (Newton meters) or 25-37 FT LBS.
** The 35-50 NM was taken from the AIM DWG #464887
** The 35-50 NM was a revision #3 done on 11/77. previously they were 55-70 NM (40-55 FT LBS) My opinion is you can go to 45 FT LBS and still be safe. I don't know where the 70 FT LBS came from that I found published on the Net, but it rolls threads and bends plates! Ask me how I know...
Traccdog knew his facts when he said 35 FT LBS.
Also, the final torque should be done with the car on the ground and spring de-arched.
Note your exhaust route before you mount the exhaust as the exhaust will most likely hinder access to at least one of the bolts and in this case the exhaust should be mounted later.
Also on the same DWG, note #5 states to install flat washers along with the locks on the two front bolts only of the spring retainer plate. Possibly to ensure the bolts don't bottom out as these are not through holes like the back ones.

2) Check the fit of your trailing arm pivot bolts prior to assembly. I found one set of aftermarkets that were a few thou too fat and would not pass through the frame and these can be a pain to fish in there even when they do fit. The second set (different source) fit great. The first set caused some major headaches, wondering what the f*&# was going on?

3) As Gary posted previously, the H/D cover I purchased had fitment issues at the front of the crossmember to the cover casting that required grinding the cover. No biggy, but do it when it's out of the car! Also fit the spring to the cover, as Gary also posted, the bolts did'nt line up well. I had to grind the spring ever so lightly at the bolt locations, then the bolt patten threaded up nicely. As with any grinding, go easy and keep fitting till it's good.

4) When having someone rebuild your diff, ask all the questions up front, you'd be amazed at the specs some vendors hold (sloppy) or they don't know or won't say. Make sure you ask the type of clutch plates, if you go that route. I suggest loosing them or make sure they're the steel plates. Actually, before you do anything contact Mike or Gary! Period!
Oh yes, do the drain plug thing and save a whole lot of trouble in the future.

5) Loose the cast iron fill plug and go to an aluminum or brass allen drive 3/4: NPT plug. The square head original plug is a pain in the butt & the allen wrench one can be removed with a 3/8" drive ratchet & allen wrench type socket (7/16") alot easier.

6) One thing that may seem dumb , but mine were previously this way, is the lower shock mount washer is dished & the dish shoud face out so the nut fits in the dish. Mine were backwards with the dish towards the bushing on the shock, essentialy locking or hindering the movement or pivot of the lower shock mount.

7) Adjust your parking brakes prior to putting on the calipers because when your rotors are indicated or aligned for minimum runout the P-brake adjuster hole might not be aligned with the hole in the spindle anymore. Plus you'll have less drag on the rotor for a better feel of the P-brake while adjusting. You can can rotate the rotor to align the holes and then put the rotor back to your aligned witness mark after adjusting. Or just drill another hole in the rotor hat at your new location for easier future adjusting. I did'nt drill a new hole.

8) Don't mount your sway bar hardware to the T/A before you get your ride height set, settled in & your spring bolts adjusted because there isnt enough room to get an opened end wrench on the head of the spring bolt with the sway bar hardware mounted on the T/A.

Hope this helps save some time for someone in the future....

 

You do beautiful work!

 

Wow, thanks alot. It's the OCD!

 

How tough of a job is this, can a amature do this?

 

I guess the meaning of amature needs to be defined, but it's all nuts & bolts. If mechanically inclined, then yes. There are things to be aware of going in, such as the removal of the trailing arm bolts & the shock mounts can be a bear. Mine went nicely, but I know many others that had to get out the sawzall. Just research it and ask all the questions up front even before you start. There's always plenty of help here on the forum.

 

WOW what a great job you did!!!! When you get done will you drive it?

 

Jimbo,
The "winter project" looks really sharp. Very nice attention to the details!

 

It is looking great, too bad you have to drive it and get it dirty.

 

It does look great.

That wouldn't be Badger red would it? I might have to go with Michigan Blue or Michigan state Green.

The red does look good, nice job

 

Thanks Guys!!! Yes, I'll be driving it, I put about 2K a year on it & in it $$$ LOL
I do quite a few shows during the summer. I find it just as relaxing as working on it. I dont take the shows too serious, but seem to fair pretty well in the trophy dept. (they just grow dust in the garage).
The red draws alot of attention. And the Girls seem to love it, so I spend my days chatting with the Babes. Makes for a great day!
Thanks qagain for all the kind words, take care.
Jimbo

 

I have to say it too, Jimbo.....AWESOME job! Want to come to the High Sierras and do mine? haha!

 

Man, if I could get out there, I'd love to give you a hand. Never been out west.

 

Beautiful just beautiful...