Is it really that hard? I've become so overwhelmed that I'm worried that I am going to screw it up...I just need some inspiration guys. I'll be working with fiberglass on my 1976 Corvette, so all the panels I'll be dealing with are SMC (meaning that I'll be using epoxy resin). It's just that all the articles I've read say that the surface must contain no contaminants and must be extremely clean, and I know that because I am working on the rest of the car at the same time, they are a little contaminated. Remember,m I'll be working with epoxy resin, so everything must be crucial when I do my repairs. I need some inspiration from you first timers!!!!

 

Just do it

You're not working on the space shuttle.

 

Thanks for the reply. You're right, I'm just going to start working on it!!!

 

Like I said in a previous thread, it's not rocket science, just twisting wrenches. Or in this case, mixing resin. I'd assume one could be able to go back and fix a mistake should you be less than satisfied with the results. (at least, that's what I'm counting on!)
John

 

Who sells epoxy resin? What are some brand names?

 

A lot of places sell epoxy resin. Ecklers is probably the easiest place to get it as you'll know for sure it'll be the right stuff. Get a roller from them too ($10). The resin is kind of pricey, but don't waste a bunch of time like I did looking around for the "perfect" product ...that's cheap. You won't find it. Get some fiberglass mat that is compatible with Epoxy resin.

Basically you just "v" out the repair area with a grinder and fill it with epoxy resin and layer on mat pieces (that you presumably cut ahead of time to fit). Make the "V" nice and wide. I mix the epoxy in a paper cup, daub some on the surface, lay on a couple layers of mat, roll it in, lay on some more epoxy ...may need to daup a little more epoxy resin if it's getting really dry. Then roll it down more. Build it up, keep rolling and soon it'll all "melt" in to the resin. Build it upa little high so you can sand the whole thing smooth. I put a heat lamp on mine to speed curing (but not too hot), and let it be for a day before working to eliminate shrinkage issues. Then sand it down smooth to the surface. I start with a grinder and work to finder grits. You may need to repeat the above steps depending if your build height.

Like the guys said, you're not working on the space shuttle. Go ahead, you can do it. Ecklers has a good video that shows how to do it (the one that shows installing the rear quarter panel). It's $29, but if you haven't done it and want to get up to speed quickly, that's money well spent. Good luck.

Mark G

 

I prefer West System, great track record and you can get slow hardener and fast hardener.

Eastern Burlap & Trading Co
834 W 25th St
Norfolk, VA 23517
(757) 622-5914

There are other suppliers, these guys sell as much as most larger companies, hence they sell it a little cheaper. It is still expensive, I think I was paying $90 for a gallon of epoxy resin and a quart of hardener, you will need pumps for correct mixing they are about $10
I am sure they sell a smaller quantity, I have just always bought gallons.
West System cleans up (hands and tools) with WHITE VINEGAR!! no need to have to deal with acetone or lacquer thinner,(makes you hungry for salad) they work, no need to spend the money!! Vinegar!! If you are in a real hurry to get the stuff to set??? mix it up, put it in the microwave on MED for about 10 secs, and you better not wait around, cuz' it won't.

I was thinking about this the other night, same discussion...different thread. After you get the repair exactly like you want it, brush on ONE last final coat of west system, use a sponge brush to make it streak free, drag it level and smooth, let it set. The West sands/wet sands better than gel-coat, with out the gummy mess. The finished surface will keep the fibers from blooming (showing thru the paint) and will give a great surface for paint adhesion.

For ALL you guys working with glass fibers??? If you will apply a liberal amount of BABY POWDER to exposed skin before you start sanding or grinding, the talc will not allow the itch powder to work into the pores in your skin....makes you smell good too!!
mobjack68

 

mobjack68, what brand of fiberglass matte are you using with West System Epoxy Resin? I'm buying it from a distributor in my area and I heard that using matte with styrene in it alters the epoxy into being weak...is this true? What are you using?

 

Hey Stinger, I've got a roll (still about 125 lbs) that was rejected from f'glass manufacturing company locally. It was rejected because it had some weird spots in it, I just cut around them... It is 3/4 oz mat and was to be used with clear polyester resin to make mailboxes, so it was engineed for POLYESTER, I have used about 25 lbs of it with West System and seen NO ill effects. I think the styrene thing is about the binder used in the making of the mat. When they make f'glass mat (NOT cloth or woven roving) they have a spray head that chops the strand into small pieces and sprays the dry mat onto an electrostatic bed to hold them all down and then sprays a "glue" onto all of that to bond the loose fibers to each other. Since polyester is styrene based, it makes sense to use a glue that will be dissolved/softened by the polyester resin. I have used several gallons of West with the mat I have , the binder doesn't allow the West to wet out as fast as polyester, but again, no lack of strength or grip and the f'glass becomes a little transparent and takes on the color of the epoxy. If the glass was not wetting out adequately, the fibers would be white instead of clear. If you are interested I am willing to send you some of the glass that I have, pm your address....My thought would be this, it is probably a marketing ploy to get you to buy their product. If you feel the need, buy some glass locally and try some samples. Typically our test samples would be 2" wide, maybe a foot long, make several samples with 1 layer in one sample, 2 layers in the next, 3 layers in the next, etc. After about 36 hrs, test 'em!!! bend em, twist em, curl em and see what happens. Prove to yourself that the stuff works.
At worst??? If you cut the size mat you need for your fixins, drop it momentarily in a little bit of acetone. That will remove the binder and render a slightly stiff piece of mat to the consistency of a wet paper towel...IMMEDIATELY. Without the binder, every brush load of resin will attract fibers, little aggravating, but workable....
I've been thinking about shooting some video and posting it on YouTube ...seen a lot of traffic and indecision about epoxies/polyesters/smc...
Im a sure in a lot of cases if folks would just try some on their own, get comfortable with whatever product they are using, they would find there is probably not a whole lot of difference in the way the materials work. The difference is still SMC/Press molded polyester...holler
mobjack68

 

Try www.uscomposites.com for your supplies. Great selection and prices

 

Just start out small and work up to the bigger items.
Mistakes are part of learning, enjoy have fun.!

 

In my fiberglass expeditions I learned to put a fan on the car blowing it away from me when I grind it to help keep the itchy crap away from my skin. It worked very well!

Take your time plan what you are doing and start the art project.

 

And it does smell wile it cures. Make shure to have it working place ventaled (sp) I have rebuilt and fab Fiberglass. And I will put up picks and vid of the work on the new wacked.