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Old Feb 24, 2007 | 02:44 PM
  #1  
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I am trying to get the roll cage out of my 71 so that I can lift the body off. I bought a reciprocating saw but I am having litlte luck making progress. I am using the metal blade that came with it, is it possible that it needs to be a more aggressive blade?

I also used my cutting wheel on the air compressor, which worked but it is hard to get it into certain places and I could not cut the bar all the way around.

Any suggestions?
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Old Feb 24, 2007 | 02:49 PM
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The blades that come with those saws are budget blades made from soft materials. Stop by a hardware store, and get a real good blade. Generally, the cheaper the blade the quicker it will dull.
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Old Feb 24, 2007 | 03:32 PM
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Lenox makes the best blades that I've found. I'm a contractor so I've used my fair share. Youy can get them Lowe's and H D.
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Old Feb 24, 2007 | 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Godfathers Ghost
Lenox makes the best blades that I've found. I'm a contractor so I've used my fair share. Youy can get them Lowe's and H D.
Thank you for the endorsement. I have worked for Lenox for the past 22 years so I am biased but they are by far the best out there. You must be using a cheap blade. For cutting the roll bar get yourself a 14 or 18 tooth blade. This will provide you smooth cutting. If you can a little lube helps out a lot. Any questions about cutting anything let me know.

Godfathers Ghost, I don't know what kind of contractor you are but we just came out with a new blade for cutting cast iron pipe. It is a diamond grit edge blade. I just received the launch kit yesterday and it works very well.
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Old Feb 24, 2007 | 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Gordonm
Thank you for the endorsement. I have worked for Lenox for the past 22 years so I am biased but they are by far the best out there. You must be using a cheap blade. For cutting the roll bar get yourself a 14 or 18 tooth blade. This will provide you smooth cutting. If you can a little lube helps out a lot. Any questions about cutting anything let me know.

Godfathers Ghost, I don't know what kind of contractor you are but we just came out with a new blade for cutting cast iron pipe. It is a diamond grit edge blade. I just received the launch kit yesterday and it works very well.
How thick is the blade itself?
The ones I have used are pretty thin and buckled fairly easily under pressure and of course when plunging.

MorpheusGPR
In addition to Gordnm advice, cutting oil really makes a dif too.
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Old Feb 24, 2007 | 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Gordonm

Godfathers Ghost, I don't know what kind of contractor you are but we just came out with a new blade for cutting cast iron pipe. It is a diamond grit edge blade. I just received the launch kit yesterday and it works very well.
I do general but I have a lot of plumbing experiance from past employment and have a habit of getting reeled in to do more plumbing kind of oftan. A few months ago I had to cut a 3" cast waste pipe flush with a new, lower subfloor for the toilet flange and it took about 20 minutes and 3 18T blades. Of course getting the sawzall flush was most of the problem. I don't supose I could trouble you for a sample for the next time?
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Old Feb 24, 2007 | 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by noonie
How thick is the blade itself?
The ones I have used are pretty thin and buckled fairly easily under pressure and of course when plunging.
.
I just went back a reread the packet of info I got. The blade is actually .042 thick which is thinner tha nmost of the competition. The reason for this is that we remove less material therefore cut the cast iron pipe faster.
I don't think you are going to plunge cut cast iron. If you are talking about the standard tooth edge blades we do make a standard .035 and a .042 Lazer blade and also a .062 Demolition blade. I use the demolition blades all the time and they are darn near impossible to bend even when plunging.
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Old Feb 24, 2007 | 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Gordonm
I use the demolition blades all the time and they are darn near impossible to bend even when plunging.

I almost suggested those...but they cut too thick for my tastes.
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Old Feb 25, 2007 | 11:56 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by Gordonm
I just went back a reread the packet of info I got. The blade is actually .042 thick which is thinner tha nmost of the competition. The reason for this is that we remove less material therefore cut the cast iron pipe faster.
I don't think you are going to plunge cut cast iron. If you are talking about the standard tooth edge blades we do make a standard .035 and a .042 Lazer blade and also a .062 Demolition blade. I use the demolition blades all the time and they are darn near impossible to bend even when plunging.
Sorry, don't have the specs handy, but for metals I've been using a Supersawzall (longer stroke) and "Rigid" brand cutting oil with the appropriate tooth count really works wonders, although even with this cast is tougher. Cutting cast soil pipes in walls is always a pain and sometimes chain cutters don't work.

As far as the diamond that I've been using, they are designed to do stone work and made in Italy. They usually break off just at the end of the clamp area if jammed. I like to use these for lath/stucco and old real plaster walls. They are about the only type blades that work well in those applications and you often find yourself hitting something in the blind. I did use some abrasive carbide blades that didn't break and were thick, but was never able to find them again.

I just assumed it was all marketing, because a good unbreakable diamond blade would last too long, sort of like a diamond core drill.
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Old Feb 25, 2007 | 12:50 PM
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Gordon. Lenox. Good stuff. Very cost effective.
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