69 corvette values
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 130
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From: Alberta
69 corvette values
I'm trying to figure out the relative value of my 69 L-36 when it's finished as compared to a 69 L-68, L-71 or L-89 of equal or lower condition and Im wondering if this guide very realistic.
http://www.nadaguides.com/default.as...-1&y=1969&da-1
The way I see it, an average end 69 L-36 coupe is worth around 25k and an average end 69 L-89 convert is around 63k. I'm just wondering if the value placed on these cars is realistic and more so, is the spread between them realistic? This would make the L-89 convert worth 2.5 times more than the L-36 coupe with all other things being equal. I'm not debating that, just wondering if it's realistic.
In general, how much do you guys trust the NADA quide..good, bad, hit and miss? Still trying to get an idea what various tri-power cars are worth in relation to my L-36 when it's finished
http://www.nadaguides.com/default.as...-1&y=1969&da-1
The way I see it, an average end 69 L-36 coupe is worth around 25k and an average end 69 L-89 convert is around 63k. I'm just wondering if the value placed on these cars is realistic and more so, is the spread between them realistic? This would make the L-89 convert worth 2.5 times more than the L-36 coupe with all other things being equal. I'm not debating that, just wondering if it's realistic.
In general, how much do you guys trust the NADA quide..good, bad, hit and miss? Still trying to get an idea what various tri-power cars are worth in relation to my L-36 when it's finished
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25 grand is pretty cheap for an original 427/390. I'm not sure I would use NADA as an accurate assesment of Corvette values. The tri power cars are generally worth about 15 to 20 grand more than the single carb big blocks. I wouldn't get too caught up in the what's it worth world when doing the restoration of an early C3 big block. Do it for the love of the car and stay within your budget. The 390 horse 427 is a simple, great driving big block. Plenty of torque and 2 fewer carbs to mess with.
The aluminum head 427's are bringing 2 1/2 times what a L36 would bring.
The aluminum head 427's are bringing 2 1/2 times what a L36 would bring.
Last edited by capevettes; Feb 25, 2007 at 03:25 PM. Reason: L89
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Scottsdale Arizona
This guide has been posted a number of times"
It was from a magazine article and seems to be a reasonable guide. I think that the "needs work" guide can be a little generous. I've seen recent posts of 68s for $3k that weren't worth the money.
Also, you may want to post these sorts of questions in the General section.
It was from a magazine article and seems to be a reasonable guide. I think that the "needs work" guide can be a little generous. I've seen recent posts of 68s for $3k that weren't worth the money.
Also, you may want to post these sorts of questions in the General section.
Last edited by CA-Legal-Vette; Feb 25, 2007 at 10:12 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,354
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I'm trying to figure out the relative value of my 69 L-36 when it's finished as compared to a 69 L-68, L-71 or L-89 of equal or lower condition and Im wondering if this guide very realistic.
http://www.nadaguides.com/default.as...-1&y=1969&da-1
The way I see it, an average end 69 L-36 coupe is worth around 25k and an average end 69 L-89 convert is around 63k. I'm just wondering if the value placed on these cars is realistic and more so, is the spread between them realistic? This would make the L-89 convert worth 2.5 times more than the L-36 coupe with all other things being equal. I'm not debating that, just wondering if it's realistic.
In general, how much do you guys trust the NADA quide..good, bad, hit and miss? Still trying to get an idea what various tri-power cars are worth in relation to my L-36 when it's finished
http://www.nadaguides.com/default.as...-1&y=1969&da-1
The way I see it, an average end 69 L-36 coupe is worth around 25k and an average end 69 L-89 convert is around 63k. I'm just wondering if the value placed on these cars is realistic and more so, is the spread between them realistic? This would make the L-89 convert worth 2.5 times more than the L-36 coupe with all other things being equal. I'm not debating that, just wondering if it's realistic.
In general, how much do you guys trust the NADA quide..good, bad, hit and miss? Still trying to get an idea what various tri-power cars are worth in relation to my L-36 when it's finished
Last edited by a560156; Feb 26, 2007 at 09:15 AM.
Tech Contributor
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From: Connecticut, USA
Book value and real world buyer offers are often in the mind of the those waiting for the great pumpkin to arrive every 10/31st.
Enjoy your car and if the day comes where you want to sell hopefully you'll find a buyer that will make you an offer you like.
Enjoy your car and if the day comes where you want to sell hopefully you'll find a buyer that will make you an offer you like.
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From: YANKEES UNIVERSE 70 454-LS5 500 ft-lbs Torque
25 grand is pretty cheap for an original 427/390. I'm not sure I would use NADA as an accurate assesment of Corvette values. The tri power cars are generally worth about 15 to 20 grand more than the single carb big blocks. I wouldn't get too caught up in the what's it worth world when doing the restoration of an early C3 big block. Do it for the love of the car and stay within your budget. The 390 horse 427 is a simple, great driving big block. Plenty of torque and 2 fewer carbs to mess with.
The aluminum head 427's are bringing 2 1/2 times what a L36 would bring.
The aluminum head 427's are bringing 2 1/2 times what a L36 would bring.
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Most documented tri power cars do double the money of their counterparts..............
Melting Slicks
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when I sold my 69...which was a concourse winning numbers matching 350 4 speed car, it didnt bring near what mags and nada called for. nada was off by about 10k. I took my time to sell and the market decided the price. basically what I am saying is the only way to find out what it is really worth would be to sell it.
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when I sold my 69...which was a concourse winning numbers matching 350 4 speed car, it didnt bring near what mags and nada called for. nada was off by about 10k. I took my time to sell and the market decided the price. basically what I am saying is the only way to find out what it is really worth would be to sell it.
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Joined: Feb 2003
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From: YANKEES UNIVERSE 70 454-LS5 500 ft-lbs Torque
when I sold my 69...which was a concourse winning numbers matching 350 4 speed car, it didnt bring near what mags and nada called for. nada was off by about 10k. I took my time to sell and the market decided the price. basically what I am saying is the only way to find out what it is really worth would be to sell it.
Those magazine price guides are not reliable at all.
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Orono MN
I purchased a 69 roadster L71/L89 with limited documentation November of last year. Traced it back to the owner in 1991 who verified the aluminum heads. Car has been repainted and looks ok but not a first rate job. Interior is mostly original and needs upgradingbut isnt terrible. Both tops, side pipes, THM400 and four mounted red walls in addition to the radials on the car. 1000 miles on engine rebuild by reputable firm. Brake system rebuilt last year. $65,000 in state which means no shipping and no sales tax. I believe it was a fair deal but I didn't 'steal' it by any means. A 69 coupe 427/400 went for $105,000 last month at BJ. It looked to be a survivor ant the number includes comission. Hope this helps.
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Instructor
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From: Alberta
Thanks guys. So basically the price guides are hit and miss at best. My intent of this post wasn't to figure out what my car is worth but to try and figure out it's relative worth compared to others of equal condition.
I've had my L-36 for almost 20 years now and it really is a great car. Never cut or hot rodded and has most or it's original parts right down to the shocks but it will soon be time for a change. The change will be a tri-power car and probably a 69 so I'm just trying to figure out a realistic price difference between mine and the varoius tri-power cars out there. I had hoped that some of the price guides could give me an idea of what the difference in prices between mine and others would be for a comparison but maybe it's not that easy...
I've had my L-36 for almost 20 years now and it really is a great car. Never cut or hot rodded and has most or it's original parts right down to the shocks but it will soon be time for a change. The change will be a tri-power car and probably a 69 so I'm just trying to figure out a realistic price difference between mine and the varoius tri-power cars out there. I had hoped that some of the price guides could give me an idea of what the difference in prices between mine and others would be for a comparison but maybe it's not that easy...
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,438
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From: Melrose Florida
Thanks guys. So basically the price guides are hit and miss at best. My intent of this post wasn't to figure out what my car is worth but to try and figure out it's relative worth compared to others of equal condition.
I've had my L-36 for almost 20 years now and it really is a great car. Never cut or hot rodded and has most or it's original parts right down to the shocks but it will soon be time for a change. The change will be a tri-power car and probably a 69 so I'm just trying to figure out a realistic price difference between mine and the varoius tri-power cars out there. I had hoped that some of the price guides could give me an idea of what the difference in prices between mine and others would be for a comparison but maybe it's not that easy...
I've had my L-36 for almost 20 years now and it really is a great car. Never cut or hot rodded and has most or it's original parts right down to the shocks but it will soon be time for a change. The change will be a tri-power car and probably a 69 so I'm just trying to figure out a realistic price difference between mine and the varoius tri-power cars out there. I had hoped that some of the price guides could give me an idea of what the difference in prices between mine and others would be for a comparison but maybe it's not that easy...
I think just find an intake and carbs, put them on your car, keep your original stuff, change nothing else. A set-up will cost $1500-$3000, and you can always easily sell for what you pay for it...plus if you ever want to sell yours, it'll go in a flash even as a "not-original" tripower.
As fiberglass junkie showed, the L71 and L89 cars are worth MUCH more than the single carb cars, and are much easier to sell.
Steve
