Ball joint question
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,084
Likes: 1
From: Aussie expat in Saudi Arabia
Ball joint question
I went to install my new ball joints tonight and had a couple of problems.
Problem 1: How did the rubber boot stay on as there was nothing in the kit that would do that? I finally twigged that I might need something off the old ball joint which, luckily, I kept. I rumaged around and came up with a rusty piece of metal that goes inside the control arm and lines up with the ball joint mounting holes. Problem 1 solved, just gotta clean the said piece up now.
Problem 2: There's a hole in the "back" of the ball joint but it's not threaded so how do I get the grease nipple in there? Again, I looked at the old ball joint and the part that the grease nipple screws into is attached to the ball joint somehow (too much grease to see if it's rivets or spot welded). Do I need to get this bit off the old ball joint somehow?
Any ideas?
Problem 1: How did the rubber boot stay on as there was nothing in the kit that would do that? I finally twigged that I might need something off the old ball joint which, luckily, I kept. I rumaged around and came up with a rusty piece of metal that goes inside the control arm and lines up with the ball joint mounting holes. Problem 1 solved, just gotta clean the said piece up now.
Problem 2: There's a hole in the "back" of the ball joint but it's not threaded so how do I get the grease nipple in there? Again, I looked at the old ball joint and the part that the grease nipple screws into is attached to the ball joint somehow (too much grease to see if it's rivets or spot welded). Do I need to get this bit off the old ball joint somehow?
Any ideas?
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
#2 - The zirk will self tap into the hole. Just apply pressure with a finger while tightening it with a wrench. It'll catch, and then thread it down flush. Don't over-tighten and strip it. Then you'll have problems.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 484
Likes: 0
From: McComb Ms.
sounds to me like you may have non greasable ball joints..is the hole directly opposite of the of the threaded spindle or on the side of the ball? your desciption makes me think you see your hole on the side of the ball itself. i've seen you in the forum alot and i'm sure i am misunderstanding but if its not threaded its not right, the grease zert is a fairly soft metal and it won't cut threads very well.i have them break off on occasion if i try and pull my grease gun off under pressure. if it is the zerk hole then maybe it wasn't tapped at factory. Mine were tapped.
your rubber will be held in position by the adjoining piece when bolted and torqued.it doesn't need to be seated or sealed to hold pressure at all. it is a dust cover and water repellant more than anything, the grease in it serves no purpose but to keep moisture and in your case sand out. its the fresh grease between the ball and socket that carries the load.
your rubber will be held in position by the adjoining piece when bolted and torqued.it doesn't need to be seated or sealed to hold pressure at all. it is a dust cover and water repellant more than anything, the grease in it serves no purpose but to keep moisture and in your case sand out. its the fresh grease between the ball and socket that carries the load.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,084
Likes: 1
From: Aussie expat in Saudi Arabia
The steel at the bottom (top?) of the ball joint where that little hole is, is about 2-3mm thick. There's no way the grease nipple will cut it's own thread through it.
Where the grease nipple screws into the old ball joint is like a "top hat" shape and isn't on this ball joint. There was nothing else in the kit and I can't remove the bit off the old ball joint - it seems to be either spot welded or riveted on. It's still covered in 25 years of crap though, so I can't be sure
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Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Columbia Missouri
Drifting
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Race Director
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From: Florida
saudivette
First check to see if the hole is sized the for a #7 drill bit or close. Don't have the xover chart handy.
In past years, ball joints came threaded traditionally with 1/4-28 holes and plugs installed. They are saving money these days by not installing the thread or threaded hex head plugs.
The best method is to put grease on a 1/4-28 tap and run it in 3 or 4 turns and use a grease zerk that has a 1/4-28 tapered thread. The ghrease will trap the cuttings. It can tighten without bottoming out because of the tapered thread even though it isn't a true pipe thread.
Here is a chart of different types and sizes of grease zerks but most automotive people will only be familiar with the more common one I previously mentioned.
First check to see if the hole is sized the for a #7 drill bit or close. Don't have the xover chart handy.
In past years, ball joints came threaded traditionally with 1/4-28 holes and plugs installed. They are saving money these days by not installing the thread or threaded hex head plugs.
The best method is to put grease on a 1/4-28 tap and run it in 3 or 4 turns and use a grease zerk that has a 1/4-28 tapered thread. The ghrease will trap the cuttings. It can tighten without bottoming out because of the tapered thread even though it isn't a true pipe thread.
Here is a chart of different types and sizes of grease zerks but most automotive people will only be familiar with the more common one I previously mentioned.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,084
Likes: 1
From: Aussie expat in Saudi Arabia
Thanks for all the input guys. I tried just screwing the grease nipple in and it worked! I was convinced that it would never cut it's own thread through the steel of the ball joint. You learn something new every day!
Thanks again, beers on me
Thanks again, beers on me
