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I think your car would be more valuable if you put in a period correct 350/350 small block known as a restoration motor. This could be stamped correctly for your car and be numbers matching.
There is no fraud in replaceing an engine with a period correct like engine....it becomes a NOM but it still would be a numbers matching drivetrain which IMHO adds value.
Replaceing a s/b with a b/b your car becomes a clone and could be considered a fraud unless there is full disclosure.
mostly. I would build a SB, but I would not restamp it. I diasagree with some of the other posts that any BBed car will bring more than a NOM SB car. Do a search and look at all the posts on "Was this originally a BB Car" and "How do I tell if it was...". I would build a nice, period correct SB and enjoy the car. You don't want to race it, so why spend all the money and time to turn a SB car into a BB? You already have all the accessories for a SB. Price all the pulleys and brackets and exh manifolds for a BB and you will see-and you would have to find a BB hood and then have it painted. I'm not saying there is never any justification for a swap, I just don't think that you will come out ahead money wise to do so.
You really shouldn't have the numbers made to be matching, but as for SB vs BB, here's my 2 cents:
How much cash are you gonna put into it if you go BB?
Lt-1 Hood, M-21 or M-22 tranny, suspension, support for rear end, BB mounting brackets at a minimum...
How often are you going to drive it? It's expensive to drive a BB...
If you won't drive it everyday and have the cash, than go BB. otherwise maybe get a 350 and bore it out to a 400?
Just some considerations; hope it helps you decide.
WOW, a lot to think about! I am going to put in the 350 I just redid, gaskets and paint, nothing fancy, it is a 88' and has the cerpinteen belt, will look wierd in this year vette, but thought I would at least try to get her on the road till I built the right motor. If I were to go period motor, all I would have to do it change the accesory brackets, my vette did not have power steering or brakes, so this shouldn't be too hard to do, o'ya the pulleys too... o crap, the heads are center bolt, I guess those too..... hmmm Why the the dude have to mess with my MOTOR!!!! lol
I dissagree:
No more of a clone then restamping a small block...........still fraud & unethical either way !!
In response to gg's next post. Please correct me if I'm wrong. '69's are not identifiable by engine size via the V.I.N. As 427sixpack says...it doesnt matter what you drop in it will always be fraud if it has a restamped block. Heck, if you going to drop in a restamped block restamp a big block and throw away your documentation....
I just had a gentleman call me today (sat.) and ask me if I would be interested in a 4-bolt main, Jan 14th 350 Block, get this.... a 010 block. Chevy by the numbers said it was started until late April, early May! This guy told me he works for GM and he said the casting date is clear as day and he said you would be suprised as to what GM has and does do...
So..... I think the 400 he is asking is a fair price for a std. bore, been fluxed and soft plugs are out...... Ready for build.... Thoughts?
From: Oakville ON "Real Corvettes have folding tops..."
Originally Posted by ChuckPhillips
Thanks. I guess I'll keep my eye out for either then.... I just thought dated motor might make it worth more. Not that I plan on ever selling it....Just a nice to know thing.
Are you planning on being one of those guys that by fate finds "the long lost original engine" for his car. When the original engine is gone its gone. Put whatever you wish in it now but searching for a dated engine sounds like you have more in mind then just getting it running.
From: Oakville ON "Real Corvettes have folding tops..."
Originally Posted by gq82
Sorry, I think your confusing originality with the term numbers matching....PERIOD!!
Numbers matching used to mean original. When did it become okay to restamp the numbers on an engine and call it simply numbers matching? If it wasn't stamped at the factory its not numbers matching IMHO.
I have no desire to mislead anyone. I have no desire to sell this Vette. Just thought I would be nice to make a DATED motor.... The stamp on the front would remain as I purchase. I would just like to make it as original as I can. If I dont get a DATED motor, I my's well do nothing more than I what I have now.... A 1988 350 in a 1969.
From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
Originally Posted by ChuckPhillips
WOW, a lot to think about! I am going to put in the 350 I just redid, gaskets and paint, nothing fancy, it is a 88' and has the cerpinteen belt, will look wierd in this year vette, but thought I would at least try to get her on the road till I built the right motor. If I were to go period motor, all I would have to do it change the accesory brackets, my vette did not have power steering or brakes, so this shouldn't be too hard to do, o'ya the pulleys too... o crap, the heads are center bolt, I guess those too..... hmmm Why the the dude have to mess with my MOTOR!!!! lol
Better check that engine, I think you'd have to disguise the center bolt valve covers too. They're a dead give away that its not a '70's motor.
I think that would be as you said "a dead giveaway" Not to mention... It does not have the V belt system. The 88 350 the I have ready to go in it was given to me, I tore it down and replaced all the seals and gaskets and made it to run in my 69, but only did this till I made a "Dated" motor. Not one to try to "Fake" people or anything, just to make it a Period Motor. Ideally the 350/350 that it was born with. As much as I would love a BB in her, I dont think I have the resourses to tackle the job. So.... I would like a "dated" or "period" 350/350.... Or maybe I will just buy all the component to make this 350 appear dated, such as V pullies, proper heads/covers. Not to mention I have the new 65k distributor on it, with a Eldebrock intake and carb...
I will have to invest a lot of money and time to bring her back to totally period Vette. But thought I would at least get her on the road this year and let her stretch her legs after a 29 year nap!
2025 C3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Originally Posted by FOLDNTOP
Numbers matching used to mean original. When did it become okay to restamp the numbers on an engine and call it simply numbers matching? If it wasn't stamped at the factory its not numbers matching IMHO.
couldnt have said it better myself !!! EXACTLY !!!
I just had a gentleman call me today (sat.) and ask me if I would be interested in a 4-bolt main, Jan 14th 350 Block, get this.... a 010 block. Chevy by the numbers said it was started until late April, early May! This guy told me he works for GM and he said the casting date is clear as day and he said you would be suprised as to what GM has and does do...
So..... I think the 400 he is asking is a fair price for a std. bore, been fluxed and soft plugs are out...... Ready for build.... Thoughts?
there were two differant casting numbers for 69 350 engines and 400 for a 4 bolt main engine i would sell all of mine no one will give more than 75.00 -150.00 tops.
I have no desire to mislead anyone. I have no desire to sell this Vette. Just thought I would be nice to make a DATED motor.... The stamp on the front would remain as I purchase. I would just like to make it as original as I can. If I dont get a DATED motor, I my's well do nothing more than I what I have now.... A 1988 350 in a 1969.
I think my choice of the term "stamped" was a poor one. What I was trying to say is if you can source a s/b restoration motor or a period correct motor it would already have the factory stampings that could be "correct" for your vehicle. You might even luck out and have casting dates that would work for you....what you would not have is a correct vin derivative and that's why I said it would always be a NOM car.
Remember you can have many non original parts on your car and still have those parts be numbers matching (correct part number and date code). IMHO, the closer you can you can restore your car to it's original configuration the more valuable it will become. In any case there will always be arguments about originality and numbers matching.....it's all part of the game.
2025 C3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
My last .02 is that numbers matching means the numbers on the enging block pad match the rest of the car & the vin on the pillar post, as it did off the assembly line making it numbers matching / original. Making it numbers matching & or restamping is NOT ORIGINAL, and it will never be again...........on to the next less subjective thread.......!!!
On the subject of the 88 engine, I think 81cali just put a late model engine in his car. You may want to PM him and see how everything went in and see if he can give you any tips he learned when doing it.