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I tried the sawsall but found I had bought blades that were too short. Since I was planning to replace the bushings anyway, and the shims were rusted away, I burned the bolts out with a torch. It wasn't pretty and some may call me "Bubba", but it got the job done quickly!
The final installation with new stainless shims and TA bolts looks great. No signs of "Bubba" in the end.
I think most will say a sawzall. Mine is at the shop right know getting the same thing done. They are cutting them out with a sawzall. If you use a torch or any type of heat be very, very careful. Heat and fiberglass don't mix well.
I think most will say a sawzall. Mine is at the shop right know getting the same thing done. They are cutting them out with a sawzall. If you use a torch or any type of heat be very, very careful. Heat and fiberglass don't mix well.
Good point! I had the body off the chassis when I did mine.
I sawzalled one side. The other side seemed a little looser so I worked at it and finally got it out. The sawzall side took about 20 minutes, the other side took a few hours. I ended up replacing both bolts. I wish I would have sawzalled both sides.
an air hammer will punch them out in about 2.5 secs
If the bolt isn't rustwelded to the bushing sleeve. Many of ours are. No force in the universe was going to separate them on my car, and it isn't very rusty on the underside.
If the bolt isn't rustwelded to the bushing sleeve. Many of ours are. No force in the universe was going to separate them on my car, and it isn't very rusty on the underside.
This is the only thing so far I took my car to the shop for. He said mine were pretty rusty and he had to cut em off with a plasma cutter. Glad I didn't try that one myself!
-CR
I think most will say a sawzall. Mine is at the shop right know getting the same thing done. They are cutting them out with a sawzall. If you use a torch or any type of heat be very, very careful. Heat and fiberglass don't mix well.