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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 08:00 AM
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Default Under dash: questions

Finally, I removed my drivers seat and got under the dash to remove the brake booster yesterday. There are so many wires in the way that I couldn't even find one of the four bolts through all the wires and stuff.

Bubba installed an aftermarket security system in it and an aftermarket radio some time before I bought the car, so I don't know what's stock and what's Bubba's work. Some of the wires are much brighter colored and heavier gauge than the others. Those are probably Bubba's wires. I just haven't taken the time to trace them yet. Someday...

Two questions.

Question #1:
What is this connector attached to the steering column?
It has a white nylon tube coming out of the white, round nylon part. I can't trace where it goes and I can't find it in the shop manual, but it looks original.


Question #2:
Is there anything that requires the warning buzzer to be connected to work?
My warning buzzer has never worked since I bought the car 6 years ago. I found it last night - cover split open and damaged, 2 connector tabs bent, etc. I'm afraid that if I replace it, I may have problems that cause it to stay on all the time, or something. Getting the warning buzzer to work is a low priority project right now, UNLESS it causes functional problems.
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 08:46 AM
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#1 - The part in the photo is your high beam headlight switch. Somewhere around 1977 they were moved from the floor to the steering column (activated through the turn signal switch). It's factory, and supposed to be there.

#2 - As far as I know, the warning buzzer is just that, a buzzer, and should not effect anything else if it isn't functional. If I'm wrong though, someone will correct me.

Steve
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 08:50 AM
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Absence of the buzzer will do nada. (Except the obvious)
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 12:55 PM
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a word of caution. are you reinstalling the same brake booster or a rebuilt? i spent 6 hours installing a rebuilt unit on my 70 yesterday-and this was with the dash and steering wheel out! it seems that the rebuilt (or replacement) unit had metric studs that pass thru the firewall. no problem you say? compare the diameter of a 10x1.5 nut with the nuts you removed off the old unit. they're much larger. the upper mounting holes in the bracket (especially the one behind the chutch safety switch) is too close to the side of the flange to put a socket on the nut. after using every blue word i could think of and some i made up, i went to lowes and found some automotive style nuts (the kind with a washer like flange). these had a smaller diameter nut. i ground off the flange and there was just enough room for the thickness of the socket wall. what a pita! just as i finished, my wife came out into the garage and gave me strict orders to "put down those tools" and get in the house!
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by jnb5101
a word of caution. are you reinstalling the same brake booster or a rebuilt?
I am installing a "new" chrome booster, but that could be a chrome-plated rebuilt.

I learned that there are 2 generations of rebuilt C3 boosters: '68-'76 and '77-'82. I know my '80 has a few things with metrics bolts. Hopefully they had their bolt sizes figured out by '80 - probably metric by then that's what you discovered.

Here's a pic of two of the bolts. Can you tell from looking at these what's on there now?
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 08:02 AM
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i can't tell by the pics if they're metric or standard, but the nuts look to be smaller diameter than what i had. special nuts, maybe? take one of the lower ones off and try it on your new booster. good luck.
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