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1973 power brake conversion

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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 02:11 PM
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Default 1973 power brake conversion

am looking at a 73 without pb. guy has purchased pb booster/master cyl. setup. Is this a staight forward install? guy says someone told him you have to cut firewall for this conversion????
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 04:44 PM
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I do know that the booster will not line up with the stock mounting studs for a non power brake car. You will need to redrill new holes to mount the booster. It is also easier to do this job with the steering column removed from the car.
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 10:01 AM
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Purchase the '73 AIM. It shows everything you need to know concerning the J50 power brake installation, including the necessary holes in the firewall. Also includes original part numbers and diagrams. The AIM is not a How-To, but it will show you enough to give you an idea on how to procede.

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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 10:50 AM
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i have many aims, closest to 73 is a 71 aim. will definitely purchase one if I buy this car.

thanks
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 11:52 AM
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My vette dosen't have power breaks. At first I didn't like them and was thinking about converting to power, but now I'm use to them and going to leave as is. They work great, just more leg muscle needed!
Glenn
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Corvette ED
I do know that the booster will not line up with the stock mounting studs for a non power brake car. You will need to redrill new holes to mount the booster. It is also easier to do this job with the steering column removed from the car.
I have detailed photographs of a '72 Lizard, both the non-power Master Cylinder alone and MC/Power Booster combination.

It will be easier to do squats in your spare time to build up your legs.

Gouging out the hole for the op-rod is just the tip of the iceberg. Then you (like the Lizard) may not have a 2-hole pedal arm, so you're dismantling the rest of the driver's side cockpit and then it's off the the swap meet with a disabled car. Or to your local steel fabrication shop to borrow their hydraulic punch.

The bolt holes looked pretty close on the Lizard, but we couldn't justify carving up the fiberglass or pulling the pedal rack just to relocate the op-rod. Good soft pads, a careful conditioning of the freshened disks, and learning to watch the road a longer way ahead will ultimately be more pleasing, IMO.

Measure twice, crack open the brake lines once.
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 05:52 PM
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Take a look at this thread:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...=brake+booster
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