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From: Downtown Annapolis, MD. The Future is where we all have to live. Let's not screw it up.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11
71 Ground Problem
I'll try to make this as short as possible.
My '71 interior lights haven't worked since I bought it. Got new door switches and replaced them. Put a new 20a fuse in and lights work. TADA!
Then...
I'm checking the wire routing before I put the kick panels back on, and feel that the wires from the switches are getting very warm. Immediately pop the fuse back out.
Remove switches and notice that the plastic part that the wire connectors plug into for the plunger to make contact with are partially melted.
I'm thinking there has to be a bad ground, but can't quite figure out where to look after being inundated with all the stuff on the wiring diagrams in the Factory Service Manual.
Anyone else ever run into this? Until I figure this out, I have no Lighter/Clock/Interior Lamps.
Its not a bad ground, the switches furnish a ground to turn on the lights. The problem os somewhere else, there is a short somewhere, maybe the light timer, the excess current is running to ground thru the switches, thats why they are heating up.
Its not a bad ground, the switches furnish a ground to turn on the lights. The problem os somewhere else, there is a short somewhere, maybe the light timer, the excess current is running to ground thru the switches, thats why they are heating up.
You do only have one wire running to each switch, right? The switches ground through the frame so you shouldn't have a ground wire on them.
Bubba wasn't smart enough to scrape off a little excess paint in the door jamb on my car and ran a separate ground for the switch instead. It didn't work.
From: Downtown Annapolis, MD. The Future is where we all have to live. Let's not screw it up.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11
Originally Posted by CCrane72
You do only have one wire running to each switch, right? The switches ground through the frame so you shouldn't have a ground wire on them.
Bubba wasn't smart enough to scrape off a little excess paint in the door jamb on my car and ran a separate ground for the switch instead. It didn't work.
If that second wire touches the plunger when the door is open then you have found your problem. That would create a dead short. The threaded nut on the switch makes the ground connection to the chassis. You should only have a hot wire coming in contact with the plunger with the door open.
Are you working on the courtesy lamp switch (in front pillar), or the rear jamb switch?
The rear should have 2 wires---alarm and door ajar. I believe the alarm relays are under the center console or up near the middle storage compartment door.
From: Downtown Annapolis, MD. The Future is where we all have to live. Let's not screw it up.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11
Courtesy lamp switches on front jamb. Haven't messed with the door ajar switch yet since this problem presented itself.
There are 2 wires that go into the plastic piece on the switch on the driver side, and when the plunger touches them both (door open), it completes the circuit and the lights come on.
I understand that the ground should be the switch screwed into the pillar, but there are 2 wires.
Courtesy lamp switches on front jamb. Haven't messed with the door ajar switch yet since this problem presented itself.
There are 2 wires that go into the plastic piece on the switch on the driver side, and when the plunger touches them both (door open), it completes the circuit and the lights come on.
I understand that the ground should be the switch screwed into the pillar, but there are 2 wires.
???
xccter, my driver's side switch has two wires also. Without looking at the wiring diagram, I can only surmise that the switches are tied together.
I would dig out a digital volt meter and see what kind of amperage your courtesy lights are drawing. For the wires to get noticeably hot there has to be a short to ground in that curcuit somewhere.
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