What To Do...what To Do...
i need to upgrade my alternator soon and upgrade the wires between alt/battery
b
like i said, ive got 4x6s going in the dash, so now im just looking for a good place to mount the 6x9s.
would it be better for me to mount them in the back wall of the car, or in the storage bin lids?
Make the pocket boards for them to mount in the corners at the back wall. That's far enough from the front dash speakers to help a little.
I cannot accurately assess your charging system without knowing what alternator you have installed. Is it the 60 amp SI alt?
I do know a "real" sub will be better and still have not decided what to do until I get to that point, but like I said...as long as I can hear it and it sounds OK...I'll be happy. ANYTHING is better than the stock crap in this thing.
Thanks DB...
I do know a "real" sub will be better and still have not decided what to do until I get to that point, but like I said...as long as I can hear it and it sounds OK...I'll be happy. ANYTHING is better than the stock crap in this thing.
Thanks DB...
I would for sure upgrade the alt. That 60 amp has a very low idle output. That means if when it's dark you have the lights and stereo on and pull up to a traffic light...the alt cannot keep up, is working overtime, heating up, and the car is still running off of the battery. Then you get moving, and the alt can catch up and charge the battery back up. This process kills batteries in twice the time that normal operation does. This is why it's so important to have a high alternator output. It saves your battery, maybe to last a good six years or so if properly tended.
In your case, I would upgrade to a CS130 or a CS144. It's a very easy swap, several guys have done it recently, and if you don't already have it, I wrote a simple paper to help walk anyone through it's install. It will give you plenty of idle amps, and over 100 amps while cruising at RPM.
The alternator upgrade will really come in handy. It saves battery life, and keeps your lights from dimming when you are stopped. Next time you replace the battery, go with a an Optima. I bought one and it sat ona shelf for six months before I installed it. I tested it, and after 6 months it still had a 13V charge. THAT'S impressive.
In your case, I would upgrade to a CS130 or a CS144. It's a very easy swap, several guys have done it recently, and if you don't already have it, I wrote a simple paper to help walk anyone through it's install. It will give you plenty of idle amps, and over 100 amps while cruising at RPM.
The alternator upgrade will really come in handy. It saves battery life, and keeps your lights from dimming when you are stopped. Next time you replace the battery, go with a an Optima. I bought one and it sat ona shelf for six months before I installed it. I tested it, and after 6 months it still had a 13V charge. THAT'S impressive.
Makes sense...Is "CS" a brand or what? Or do I just want an alternator thats at least 100 amp output?
Also more importantly, I will have the interior somewhat torn apart tomorrow, But I still am undecided as to what i will be doing in the rear. What do you suggest I run for wires so that I am set up for whatever I decide? I was thinking of course 2 speaker leads..a power lead for the amp and 1 set of RCA's for the sub. Am I missing anything? Also...if I decide to build a box (thats what I'm leaning towards) would you go 6 x 9's with 1 10" JL or would you go with the 6.5's or bigger rounds with the 10"? (might go a 12" depending on the room I have with the top down.
I'm thinking I can build something fairly decent with 2 speakers and my sub and maybe mount the amp on the face and the sub firing to the rear. I plan on doing the 6.5's in the kicks as well.
Your thoughts?
Thanks again
Also more importantly, I will have the interior somewhat torn apart tomorrow, But I still am undecided as to what i will be doing in the rear. What do you suggest I run for wires so that I am set up for whatever I decide? I was thinking of course 2 speaker leads..a power lead for the amp and 1 set of RCA's for the sub. Am I missing anything? Also...if I decide to build a box (thats what I'm leaning towards) would you go 6 x 9's with 1 10" JL or would you go with the 6.5's or bigger rounds with the 10"? (might go a 12" depending on the room I have with the top down.
I'm thinking I can build something fairly decent with 2 speakers and my sub and maybe mount the amp on the face and the sub firing to the rear. I plan on doing the 6.5's in the kicks as well.
Your thoughts?
Thanks again
I think for the back you should stick with a single 10" sub, and a 4 channel amp. Run channels 1 and 2 to the front for left and right speakers int he kicks. Bridge channels 3 and 4 for the sub in the back.
Absolutely. If you have them amped and tuned right you will not need rear speakers.
I say this for two reasons. Most people prefer front only. It sounds a lot better and keeps the stage right up front where you are. Rear speakers can confuse your head a little and things start to sound crappy.
The other reason is with rear speakers you will either need a 6 channel amp, which are very expensive, or two amps. One for front and rear speakers and one for the sub. It's not only easier but plenty to have a set of 6.5" components in the front and a sub in the back.
If you like I can suggest a few good component sets for you.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I say this for two reasons. Most people prefer front only. It sounds a lot better and keeps the stage right up front where you are. Rear speakers can confuse your head a little and things start to sound crappy.
The other reason is with rear speakers you will either need a 6 channel amp, which are very expensive, or two amps. One for front and rear speakers and one for the sub. It's not only easier but plenty to have a set of 6.5" components in the front and a sub in the back.
If you like I can suggest a few good component sets for you.
Oh yeah. You'll want to mount these in the kicks. Try to do your best in mounting the tweeters in the kicks next to the speakers, and aim them towards you and the passenger respectively by side.
Component set. (Amazing Sound.)
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=3059
4 Channel Amp. (Try to win this one. It's a wonderful 4 channel amp, and rare.)
http://cgi.ebay.com/Rare-Onyx-amp-co...QQcmdZViewItem
I will suggest more amps if this one falls through.
Component set. (Amazing Sound.)
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=3059
4 Channel Amp. (Try to win this one. It's a wonderful 4 channel amp, and rare.)
http://cgi.ebay.com/Rare-Onyx-amp-co...QQcmdZViewItem
I will suggest more amps if this one falls through.
Hey DB...I think that auction if for just the cover to that amp and not the amp itself...?
I'll look into the comps. Will those tweeters need to be a seperate hole in the kicks? If so, am I better off putting them elsewhere? I don't want to hack the car if I don't have to unless it looks clean.
What do you suggest for a sub?
Last edited by Scootin_Z; Apr 13, 2007 at 12:56 AM.
http://www.cdtaudio.com/slim_neo_systems.htm
only reason i say this is that my computer has a 5.1 set on it (which i actually thought about buying another set to put in the vette. 69rms per channel, 200rms 10" sub. they sound fantastic)
anyways, i run them in 2x stereo all the time now and love the extra set behind me head. puts me right in the middle of it all.
only reason i say this is that my computer has a 5.1 set on it (which i actually thought about buying another set to put in the vette. 69rms per channel, 200rms 10" sub. they sound fantastic)
anyways, i run them in 2x stereo all the time now and love the extra set behind me head. puts me right in the middle of it all.
Right, but look into what frequencies are being put behind you. A speaker behind someone will affect the over all sound of the system unless it's tuned and filtered specifically not to over come any of the frequencies from the front. That's how surround works. You have different frequencies from different sides and that's why surround systems have such crazy converters and processors.
http://www.cdtaudio.com/slim_neo_systems.htm
Yeah, those will work just fine. Anything CDT is going to impress you. Just a couple guidelines though. Anything smaller than a 6.5" will not give you a good mid range. It will all tend to sound high. If you can find a 6.5" component set that has the tweeter mounted over the cone then you're good. I know there are some but I don't have any links off hand.
Make sure it's a component and not a coax. A coax would not have a crossover with it and it will not sound as good.
Has anyone tried a decent looking set of smaller home speakers in the rear?
What are in the doors stock? 4 x 6's? If so...without hacking the doors...what can I put in there that sounds half way decent (just for highs since I'll probably use high pass up there) ...
Anyone?
Thanks...
Yes, it's possible to do an excellent bar rear speaker setup.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=634468
There are no speakers in doors stock. The kicks are setup for 4x6. There is not enough airspace behind in the kicks to optimize 6.5s which should go into doors. 5.25 are ideal & some 5.25 can be fitted to kick panel location. At least the tweerters should be angled up towards the middle.
Yeah, those will work just fine. Anything CDT is going to impress you. Just a couple guidelines though. Anything smaller than a 6.5" will not give you a good mid range. It will all tend to sound high. If you can find a 6.5" component set that has the tweeter mounted over the cone then you're good. I know there are some but I don't have any links off hand.
Make sure it's a component and not a coax. A coax would not have a crossover with it and it will not sound as good.
Thanks again DB Ill look into the CDT's. I looked a bit on their site, but was not able to find the K seried you listed. They had a "new" series out and then these thin ones I just linked above. I just thought the thin ones might be a better fit but might not be as good of a sound. I don't want anything sticking out of the kick to far so I'm not kicking it using the clutch etc...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=634468
There are no speakers in doors stock. The kicks are setup for 4x6. There is not enough airspace behind in the kicks to optimize 6.5s which should go into doors. 5.25 are ideal & some 5.25 can be fitted to kick panel location. At least the tweerters should be angled up towards the middle.
I found some old threads searching here where 6.5's were installed without a huge amount of fuss. I'm going to look into it. I want 6.5's in the kicks if possible. I have manual windows so no doors. Only option would be converting to power windows and then go into the doors with 6.5's but then were talking even more cost and power windows can be a big PITA!
Component set. (Amazing Sound.)
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=3059
4 Channel Amp. (Try to win this one. It's a wonderful 4 channel amp, and rare.)
http://cgi.ebay.com/Rare-Onyx-amp-co...QQcmdZViewItem
I will suggest more amps if this one falls through.
Also...what do you suggest for a sub. There is so much out there to look at!
I have a JL 10" in my Tahoe and it does well...anything else I should look at?
Also...what do you suggest for a sub. There is so much out there to look at!
I have a JL 10" in my Tahoe and it does well...anything else I should look at?You want to look for a 4 channel amp that has around 100 watts RMS per channel, and a built in crossover.
For subs, you have plenty of options. A JL or even a JBL will work well for you. Find something that's got a rating of around 200 watts RMS, but stay away from dual 2 OHM voice coils. You won't find a 4 channel that's stable down to 1 OHM, and 2 is even pushing it for most 4 channels.
You want a single 4 OHM voice coil 10" sub, that's rated for 200 watts RMS.
For subs, you have plenty of options. A JL or even a JBL will work well for you. Find something that's got a rating of around 200 watts RMS, but stay away from dual 2 OHM voice coils. You won't find a 4 channel that's stable down to 1 OHM, and 2 is even pushing it for most 4 channels.
You want a single 4 OHM voice coil 10" sub, that's rated for 200 watts RMS.
Sounds like you have done a system or 2. Wish I lived a bit closer to you. I would pay to a visit and buy you a beer...















