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Dude, building a garage is a cool day, man day...
Here's a couple of tips, measure each vehicle with the doors open,add
2' minimum between each car with doors open. Add either 16" or 24" deep cabinets on both sides or across the back, You can't have enough storage space, that will help with width measurement. Your main work bay should have 4' min all around the project including bench, this allows rolling chair, jack etc. 200 amp sub panel, put 220 outlet on inside and one outside along with a metal bench,vice to keep grinding or welding outside if possible. A washer can leach line in to the yard, it's grey water, pipe it to a tree. Good luck and have fun....
I would also build an enclosure for your air compressor and place it out side, then run pvc pipe around your work area to avoid using loads hose. Just make sure the joints don't leak. If you get a lift, read directions!!!! I didn't and we ended up putting it all together and half bolted down before we realized that it was backwards. Lets just say removing the top bar from the lift with only a 6ft ladder is very scary.
First I would re-think skylights. They all seem to leak in time. Have you thought of a pellet stove or corn burning stove? If you insulate well these stoves are very economical to use and they put out a lot of heat.
I could not find a work bench that I either liked or thought was worth the money so I had 2 custom built out of steel. 3'x8' top with a 3' ground clearance to roll under cabinets and tool chests. The top is a solid 3/8" steel plate. I covered it with a rubber top for working and I take the rubber off for hammering and welding. It was cheaper than any quality table and it is stronger then all of them put together. The drawback is that it needs four people to move it.....
Let me knwo if you would like to see some pictures.
I went with 2 foot blocks around the sides and back wall so I could get a 10 foot ceiling inside. The front is jut one block high for looks, then built up with wood. Still need to get the lift
Not sure where Planet Claire is but if it's in a northern climate (Eau Claire?) chances are you need deep footings for the structure. If that's the case, you may want to consider excavating the foundation and installing a span-crete (pre-cast structural concrete) floor. costs a bit more but you won't need a lift because you can design it as a pit. Also, storage is better below than structural roof trusses. If you have some contour to your property, you can add a second access point in the rear for the lower level. Store cars there in the winter and keep up top available for whatever. If you are not building on structurally suitable soil you will spend the same amont in excavation, fill import and compaction so it may actually be less expensive to go span crete. Best thing is that if you can get the lower level acces, your three car garage just became a six car garage. You dont need six doors, just have one and use dollys or if the footprint is big enough, you can jockey a Corvette pretty easy. On that subject, I'd suggest a bit of extra width and depth. Standard two car garage is 20' x 20' I'd make my bays a minimum of 12' wide so you can manuever around. Engine hoists, etc. take up some room. Why be tight. same thing with depth. 20 feet is pelnty to park but if you want work benches and storage, I'd go 24'. As far as the block edge is concerned, unless you get Bubba to build it, and don't pull a permit, you will be required to have a minimum 4" lip around the structure and the floor will need to be sloped towards the door openings. this is for fire code and is to protect in the event of burning liquids. Good luck and hope this helps.
i know it seems like a bit much, but the 30' deep i have is really sweet. can pull a car in, and work in front, and back without any issues. even with the bench and tool boxes in front, plenty of room. for heat, i went with radiant floor. nothing like opening doors in dead of winter, and having heat right back once they are shut. never work on cold floor again
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