i've read some of the "paint and body" threads, and i know that i'm not the first to ask this, but i really couldn't find a satisfactory answer for ME and my desires specifically, so... sorry to be repetitive but:

i'm looking to buy a 68-72. i am NOT perfectionist in the sense that this car will not be going to any shows for judging. this thing is indeed going to be my daily driver, so the paint has to be good enough quality that it can take some sun & yes, even take some automated car washes, but some overspray on a part if the car that isn't even visible is definately not a concern for me.

that being said.... would i be crazy to consider maaco or earl scheib? i looked at their sites - i wouldn't be dumb enough to get a paint job for $300. but, if i did the top of the line job (around $1000).... whad'ya think?

are there any special considerations due to the fact that the vette is fiberglass?

what about changing color? i understand that this is not wise to do if i plan to retain the original "number's matching" resale value of the car, but notwithstanding....

any info would be helpful.

 

NOT ON A CHROME BUMPER CAR!!!

 

YOU NEED TO VISIT WWW.AUTOBODYSTORE.COM FORUM. THESE GUYS ARE GREAT

 

A rubber bumper maybe. Maaco maybe, Earl Scheib NO WAY! Paint and body work is an art. The guys that work at either of these places are not painters, they are laborers. Honestly they coudln't care less if your paint peels in a year. That's why there's very little prep work. You should do some further research and check out a few other options. Where are you located?

 

You get what you pay for.

 

Keep in mind the following:
1. Chrome Bumper C3s are appreciating in value pretty quickly, Their values aren't totally hinged on being numbers matching (like previous generations), but on great mechanicals and cosmetics. (Matching numbers doesn't hurt, of course). You may actually DECREASE the value of whatever car you buy if you paint over that decent "10 foot" paint job with a cheapie job.
2. These cars came with laquer paint. The "advertised" price for the cheap places is not for laquer, but for more modern base/clear applications. The two do not play nicely together. If your 'vette is to be a daily driver like you idicate, I'd give it a year before vibrations and heat bring your new paint to it knees. If they offered laquer, it would be more expensive (Volitile organic compound and EPA restrictions make the paint expensive to buy, etc.). Why get an expensive cheap paint job?

Now, since you haven't bought a 'Vette yet, buy the best paint you can, take it to a great paint shop and have it detailed to bring out its best, and start salting the $$$ away to have it done correctly.

And, while I am a rubber bumper C3 owner, I agree that to put this type of paint job on a chrome car would be sacreligious. Just my .02.

 

http://www.vettehound.com/geo/classi...php?a=2&b=4230

so, for example, that would make this shark pretty much a *dead in the water* in my book.

at first i was thinking.... maybe get some decent looking paint on there and get the rally wheels back on. take of those sidepipes and tints and just maye she'd look stock (ish). but if nixing that paint job alone is gonna cost me 6 g's.... what's the point.

 

oh - i'm located in northern cal. sf/bay area.

 

Wow...I would have to name that particular car Burt Reynolds. Wow. Not my thing, but there's a buyer for every car.

 

I have to disagree on one point. Most "cheapo" paint jobs are still one stage acrylic enamel, not base/clear. WE do inexpensive paint at our school shop , but it fis ar away from SoCal (Oklahoma). Maaco is Okay on two conditions. First, you do your own prep and make sure ALL the nooks and crannys are sanded or at least Scotch Brited. This is where Maaco and Scheib go wrong, and where the paint begins to peel off because they do not pay attention to detail.

If you are going to do a cheapo, and I am sure it is available where you live, go to each shop and look over their finished cars. These days, even the production shops try to find a guy who knows how to spray well, and they will pay him more than the rest of the crew combined, often more than the manager himself. If you find a guy at one of these places who can spray, then do your own prep work, and then let them do more prep over yours. Remove any emblems or tape them off yourself. And keep a can of laquer thinner handy to clean the overspray off the tires!

 

If you do decide to go maaco, go into the shop like others have said, and get to know the guys. I know a couple guys who work at maaco, and they do great work. I think it really varies from shop to shop. The only maaco around me is in Lawrence, MA, which is known for its crime and high car thefts. I wouldn't trust my car to be in Lawrence over night, nor would I trust it in the hands of someone who lives in Lawrence who most likely doesn't care. Good luck with whatever you choose, just make sure you really do your homework and read up on the shops before you decide.

 

One thing you need to consider STRONGLY...Heated rooms to cure paint!!!
To get the production that allows them to trim costs, they roll the fresh painted car into an oven that cures/dries the paint. Great idea for production, not a good idea for rubber seals and gaskets. I worked for Maaco in Virginia Beach for about 5 weeks. I could not justify the product we were delivering to customers. We were NOT allowed to put time into sanding, we used steel wool to cut the gloss on the old paint. Even if you do your own sanding, check out the shop to see if they bake....

 

agreed - not my thing at all either but it looked "clean". i would have to then go and undo all the ugly crap the last guy put into it. i'm no longer considering this one.

 

i was talking about that "burt reynolds" vet in my previous post. as far as maaco - i am still considering it, but definately will do as directed by you guys.

 

you would be crazy to put a macco or earl paint job on a vette. & as far as numbers matching resale unless you buying a BB C3 or C2 don't worry about resale of a DD. You will drop $4500 on a good paint job that will last. Unlike a macco or earl that will be gone after one summer and 10 washs. If you chg'ing the color add another $1000 to $1500. G/L

 

I bought my car knowing that the prep work was not done properly on it. "Specifically not enough gel coat." I expected to spend about $3-5k for a basic driver paint job. When I took it to a painter that actually knows how to work fiberglass, he quoted me $10k. I was unpleasantly surprised. Anyway, I spent most of the money I had alloted for a paint job on mechanical upgrades. I will just keep a decent 10ft driver for while. Ohh, and by the way, do not change the color of the car. It is very difficult to make it look right, costs more money to do, and tends to look worse as it ages when done cheaply. Personally, a car that has had a color change is a giant red flag for me and reduces it's value greatly unless the seller has done a complete resto with lots of progress pics.

 

very helpful. thanks! i have NOOO problem with a 10 foot driver, but it sounds like even getting that would be at least 4 grand, huh. and then changing colors.... too bad bc i found a car that's PERFECT for me, less the color. i really don't have any extra dough to repaint it right now, and i hate the color so much i almost refuse to drive it as is.

 

IF YOU PUT EARL OR MAACO ON A VETTE , IT SHOULD BE TAKEN AWAY FROM YOU !! J/K THERE
I'M ABOUT TO START SHOPPING FOR A GOOD SHOP FOR A PAINT JOB. i WOULDN'T BE THE LEAST SURPRISED IF I GET QUOTED 8 OR 9 GRAND . WITHOUT EVEN SEEING MY CAR, ONE GUY HIT ME WITH 15K !!! THINK I'LL PASS ON HIM .

 

so seems to be the trend. well. since i'm only looking to spend about 20 on the car to begin with. i better damn well like the paint!

 

I'm in the same boat with painting my '72...does anyone have any good leads on a paint shop in the Ventura County/ SF Valley area? Thanks.