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79 L82 tach problems still

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Old May 2, 2007 | 09:37 PM
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Default 79 L82 tach problems still

I've done everything to the tach, REPLACED FILTER ,CHECK THE WIRING, REPLACED THE SPEDO BOARD....all that is left is to change the tach board???? at a cost of about 65.00 that's not an issue however the needle will not fall all the way down to zero? So should I just pay the extra bucks to have the whole tach rebuilt....so to speak or just role the dice and try the board?

Last edited by nekkutter; May 3, 2007 at 07:49 AM.
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Old May 3, 2007 | 12:24 AM
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if you mean when you shut the car off, I have bad news for you; you wasted your time. The tach needle will stop where it wants, not at zero, when you turn the key off. Then when you turn key back on it'll drop to zero before going back up.

Dont feel bad, I thought the same thing until I read it in one of the Vette magazines recently; they had an article about it.

Last edited by 79L82owner; May 3, 2007 at 12:58 AM. Reason: added dont feel bad etc.
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Old May 3, 2007 | 12:37 AM
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I bought mine new and thought the tach had a problem my first night out since it didn't go back to zero.....

Found out from the dealer the next morning that they all did it....
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Old May 3, 2007 | 01:02 AM
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maybe someone can tell us WHY the tach dont go to zero??? Anyone, Anyone?
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Old May 3, 2007 | 07:51 AM
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THANKS FOR THE HEADS UP..but this thing still doesn't want to work even when I take it out for a spin?????? now what!!
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Old May 3, 2007 | 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by 79L82owner
maybe someone can tell us WHY the tach dont go to zero??? Anyone, Anyone?
It's electronic, not mechanicial. When the electronic signal stops (ignition turned off), the needle has no juice to go anywhere, so it parks. Your digital alarm clock works the same way. When the electricity goes out, the clock stops with the time it had when the signal was interrupted.

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Old May 3, 2007 | 08:19 AM
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Sounds like you replaced most of the main components except for the circuit board. On thing though, make sure the filter has a good ground off the manifold. Check with a continuity tester or light.

All said and done, I would price out having the tach rebuilt. If total price is reasonable vs the $65 tach board, I would go that route. At least you would get a tach that was tested and repaired along with the circuit board. Most of the rebuilders replace the circuit board as a standard in their rebuild with something they have as reliable.

Good luck.
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Old May 3, 2007 | 12:38 PM
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Again gents, thanks a million will try and see what happpens!!!
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Old May 3, 2007 | 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by MILO
Sounds like you replaced most of the main components except for the circuit board. On thing though, make sure the filter has a good ground off the manifold. Check with a continuity tester or light.

All said and done, I would price out having the tach rebuilt. If total price is reasonable vs the $65 tach board, I would go that route. At least you would get a tach that was tested and repaired along with the circuit board. Most of the rebuilders replace the circuit board as a standard in their rebuild with something they have as reliable.

Good luck.
forum member ACECO repaired my original board alomost a year ago for a very reasonable price and tested and calibrated before he sent it back. it works great.

you might want to try PM-ing him about yours
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Old May 3, 2007 | 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 1Z87L8
forum member ACECO repaired my original board alomost a year ago for a very reasonable price and tested and calibrated before he sent it back. it works great.

you might want to try PM-ing him about yours
Hey Rich,

Glad to hear it's still working OK. I suspected it would be fine. Probably will last as long as it did the first time before it needs attention again.

Hope to be able to get together this year sometime.

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Old May 3, 2007 | 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Easy Mike
It's electronic, not mechanicial. When the electronic signal stops (ignition turned off), the needle has no juice to go anywhere, so it parks. Your digital alarm clock works the same way. When the electricity goes out, the clock stops with the time it had when the signal was interrupted.

All pretty much correct. I just want to clarify one point.
Its loss of power that freezes the tach, not the loss of signal.

When the ignition is turned off, you lose power. The tach parks.

When you turn the ignition back to run, power returns to the tach.
The tach swings back to zero because you don't have a signal (engine off).
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