will last a long time
Sandblast Cabinet Coating
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,930
Likes: 15
From: Calgary Alberta
Sandblast Cabinet Coating
I'm building a sandblast cabinet out of some very nice plywood at school. The plywood has a thin sheet of veneer on top of it (it is designed for building kitchen cabinets). It is coming along great. All the joints are smooth and it looks like a professional built it. I am concerned that the veneer sheet will wear off over time due to the sand hitting the walls of the cabinet when in use. I'm getting graded on this for looks and finish. I'll be using clear lacquer on the outside surfaces. But what about the inside? I need a material which will go on smooth and be hard as a rock when finished - I want to be able to protect the grain of the wood, not just paint over top of it. Is there any material out there that will suffice for the job? By the way, you have to be very careful when sanding the plywood because if you sand too much, you sand through the veneer and into the layer of plywood underneath it - this is why I am concerned that sandblasting will just eat through the veneer after the first use.
Any opinions?
Any opinions?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
Ah ... steel.
POR15 hardens up like a rock, but sandblasting media will still rip through it.
Hell, it will even rip through steel eventually.
I think you need to find a buddy in the metal shop to line it.
POR15 hardens up like a rock, but sandblasting media will still rip through it.
Hell, it will even rip through steel eventually.
I think you need to find a buddy in the metal shop to line it.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 11,874
Likes: 263
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
why not some galvanized steel from a duct work place? its probably 22 or 24 ga and it comes in big sheets...use a contact cement and glue it in place or screw it in
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Instructor
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
From: Manitowoc Wisconsin
I have a pretty good size blast cabinet in my machine shop. The whole thing is made out of galvanized steel with the exception of the bottom where the blast beads return to the hopper below, that is 1" steel with 1/4" holes pattern into it. I have blasted many parts and all the walls on the cabinet are in great shape. My suggestion to you would be stick with something that has already been used and works. Galvinized sheets would be your best bet. Good Luck.
Claude
Claude
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,930
Likes: 15
From: Calgary Alberta
Good news, my shop teacher today informed me that he had some material for the inner walls of the cabinet today. He has 3 feet by 3 feet stainless steel sheet metal...he said it will work great for my project, will cost me nothing, aand will look good. Thanks for all the responses guys, looks like I'll be going with sheet metal
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,930
Likes: 15
From: Calgary Alberta
I'll post some pics of the cabinet when it's done. I can't wait to get it finished, it looks great. Should be finished in the next few weeks or so...probably sooner. I've made some plans up for the cabinet, so when the whole thing is finished, I'll post the plans as well. I've modeled the design after the 730-TL cabinet from TP tools - they charge about $300 I believe. This thing will probably cost me only $60 Canadian in materials, and it looks nicer too.
Thanks
Thanks
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 88,393
Likes: 2
From: eville in
I'll post some pics of the cabinet when it's done. I can't wait to get it finished, it looks great. Should be finished in the next few weeks or so...probably sooner. I've made some plans up for the cabinet, so when the whole thing is finished, I'll post the plans as well. I've modeled the design after the 730-TL cabinet from TP tools - they charge about $300 I believe. This thing will probably cost me only $60 Canadian in materials, and it looks nicer too.
Thanks
Thanks
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 46
From: Raleigh North Carolina
Sounds like you've got it licked, but I''ll add to the info here.
I stapled that cheap plastic carpet runner to the inside of my plywood sandblast box. It's been in there over 20 years.
A wooden box will erode very fast unless you cover it with something. You don't have to point the gun directly at the surface.... blow-bye is just as fatal to wood as a direct hit. Uncovered 2x4 portions of my box are pretty well chewed up.
Media will bounce off a rubbery material... lasts a long time.
.01 cents
I stapled that cheap plastic carpet runner to the inside of my plywood sandblast box. It's been in there over 20 years.
A wooden box will erode very fast unless you cover it with something. You don't have to point the gun directly at the surface.... blow-bye is just as fatal to wood as a direct hit. Uncovered 2x4 portions of my box are pretty well chewed up.
Media will bounce off a rubbery material... lasts a long time.
.01 cents
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 88,393
Likes: 2
From: eville in
Sounds like you've got it licked, but I''ll add to the info here.
I stapled that cheap plastic carpet runner to the inside of my plywood sandblast box. It's been in there over 20 years.
A wooden box will erode very fast unless you cover it with something. You don't have to point the gun directly at the surface.... blow-bye is just as fatal to wood as a direct hit. Uncovered 2x4 portions of my box are pretty well chewed up.
Media will bounce off a rubbery material... lasts a long time.
.01 cents
I stapled that cheap plastic carpet runner to the inside of my plywood sandblast box. It's been in there over 20 years.
A wooden box will erode very fast unless you cover it with something. You don't have to point the gun directly at the surface.... blow-bye is just as fatal to wood as a direct hit. Uncovered 2x4 portions of my box are pretty well chewed up.
Media will bounce off a rubbery material... lasts a long time.
.01 cents
never thought of that
