I have a 79 that I am completely replacing the interior(water damage).

I need to know if there is anything special to seal the bottom of the inner doors so water does not get onto the door sills.

I have not installed the new inner door panels because I was not able to find a way to stop the drips from the lower 1 1/4" holes at the bottom of the inner doors.

Does the inner door panel do this and divert the water to the bottom drain holes?I saw no evidence of a plastic limer like is common in most GM cars,including my 96 Impala SS.
The new inner door panels are from Corvette America.

I've got close to 4k tied up in this interior and I don't want any water issues.The cowl area has been completely redone by the local body shop,they fixed 11 leaks there and installed the weatherstrips,and aligned the T-Tops and the windows,doors,and put in a new windshield.The car has no rust and is quite solid.
Thanks for any help.

 

I think the problem of water getting in the door in the first place needs to be adressed. The outer window seals on the door should be replaced, that is the only barrier to keep water out of the door in the first place. There are supposed to be drains between the outter door skin and the inner door frame to drain it if it gets inside but they get full of dirt sometimes. The door drains are outside of the door gasket, so water in the door should not get into the cabin from there. I think you will find that a combinatin of new door gaskets, outter window seals and T-Top gaskets will stop the flow. You also need to look at rust in the windshield frame, a lot of water gets in that way, pull the kick panels and see how much dammage there is around the #2 body mounts.

 

 

I spent much of yesterday in my 1979 doors. The factory inner panels do have a plastic vapor barrier that on my car is attached with a tacky caulk like substance. The inner panels don't have any drain holes, as the door themselves are supposed to channel the water out to the rear edge of the door where the weep hole is. I'm sure your innter door is super clean and the hole is unplugged. Make sure to adjust the fitment of your windows. There are a series of 9/16 bolts to loosen and adjust. See a Corvette Shop Manual or the AIM for reference. Make sure the glass on each side is mating as well as possible to the weather strip. I believe water was forced past my windows while the car was on open transport. Went to vacuum and holy s%&t the floors were wet. After eliminating the possibilty of heater core (whew) I turned my attention to the windows. Much better fit now after getting everyrting re-adjusted. I also found most of the rivets holding the power window assy were broken. (So THATS what the clunk was.) Replaced them all with bolts. Window runs up and down really well, noiw. If you can't find a picture of what the different adjusters do, PM me I'll scan the pages and send them to you.
-Bill

 

Thanks for the info,my weatherstrips are ALL NEW and were installed 1 week ago at the local restoration/collision shop.
The owner is a 20 yr GM body man who opened his own shop 8-9 yrs ago.He is REAL familiar with T-Top cars ,Vettes,F bodies etc.

I still need to know where the inner vapor barrier can be obtained.

They spent 10 hrs on seam sealing,door,window,t-top,and glass adjustment and replaced the cracked windshield.They ground and resaeled the seam under the windshield,replaced a window regulator spring and installed new door "Z" rods in the hinges.

The body plugs are all new and there are NO other leaks.
Please let me know what can be used for a vapor barrier,I don't want my new interior wet AT ALL .