i found some heads for sale casting #462824. apparently they're goodwrench heads from the 70s. i can't find any info on these though. the only thing i see is people saying it's 624, not 824...

 

Go to www.mortec.com Should be all the info you need there!

 

Hey man, I know you have been looking around for heads and I noticed you were around my age. Let me give you my .02 cents on heads. I went the cheap route and bought some vortecs, but in order to get them to work with my set up I had to put 300 bucks worth of machine work in to them. So far I have 600 bucks in these heads. There is an artical in car craft magizine this month on "patriot Performance" heads. They compair the vortecs to the the patriot heads and the patriots are compairible. BUT THE PATRIOTS ARE ALUMINUM!!!

I know you are on a budget and these things sound steap. But for an assymbled aluminum head, with 190cc intake runners, 64cc chambers, big valves, Old style valve cover bolt holes, and the option for angle plug or straight plug, you cant beat $785 bucks! Again, I have been in your shoes before and im telling you, save up some cash and get some quality heads.

Go out to an autoparts place or barnes and noble and pick up the latest car craft. It has a price list and a dyno sheet in it that compairs these two heads. Here is the link to the patriot website

http://www.patriot-performance.com/w...p?x=1&DID=1225

Good luck

James

 

thanks to both of you for the quick response! well the reason i'm asking is because my dad and i are going to build a 383, and we found a 383 block and crank, and these heads come with it. they're brand new out of the box. i mean the price is definitely worth the block alone. but i do want aluminum heads. and for that price i will definitely save up for those, especially if it's for a 383!
thanks!

 

Just take a look at the summit catalog and really plan out what you want your motor to do. Read a couple of engine books. The one I read was called "how to build a SBC on a Budget" by David Vizard. He does a good job explaining everything from block prep to balencers, to LCA, to rocker arms, to exhaust.

What was important to me when I was building my engine was that I needed to make sure all my components matched. Rear diff gear ratio, cam shaft, compression ratio etc. For me, I wanted to get the most power from a 355ci, get good milage (as good as i can for non overdrive), and enough vacuum to run my headlights. My car is pretty heavy w/ PS,AC,my 265 pounds of rock/steel/sex appeal, and has a 3.55 rear end. So torque was definitly something I wanted to have a lot of. I will have about 350 horse/410 ft(lbs) torque. My friend on the other hand has an over drive trans, 3.7 rear gear, and a light car compaired to mine. He is going with more cam and those patriot heads. He is expecting nearly 400 horsepower. I cant run that camshaft because it wont go as well with my set up. Bigger is not always better.

Just make sure you get the best parts you can afford and get as much power as you can afford the first time around. Do it right and dont take short cuts.

James

 

I also wanted to add that I did what you and your dad are doing. I bought the block w/ pistons rods crank pan pump and sump and it came with some rebuilt cylender heads. I only wanted the Crank and block so I just sold the everything else to off set the price of the block and crank. I got it for 500 bucks minus 50 for pan/pump/sump minus 200 for rods and pistons minus 180 for rebuilt 76cc heads. So my grand total for my fully machined block and forged steel crank is 70 bucks. This is definitly a good way to go.

Engine building is fun, the best way to learn is by doing.

James

 

Vortecs are over rated. especially with the other parts you have to spend money on.

 

Try this site. http://www.chevellepages.com/numbers...ad_Numbers.htm