Body Mount Question
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: Arthur Illinois
Body Mount Question
After removing carpet and inspecting my rear body mounts i decided to change them and the rear mount reinforcements. Since i am new at this I spent the last week just searching throughout the forums and google and it seems alot has pointed to a thread that NHVette had put together with photos. Unfortunately it seems his website is down. Was wondering if anyone happened to have copies of his pics when he changed his out?
Also on numerous posts there was a list of things that needed to be disconnected to lift the body up but in other posts it stated that just the negative battery cable had to be disconnected. I am just looking to lift the body up enough one side at a time to remove the old rubber and put in new screws and poly bushings. It looks like i will only have to lift it up about an inch or so to get it changed out.
I have had the bolts soaking in a rust breaker for the past week. If anyone happens to know a good spot to find a how-to preferably with some example photos it would be greatly appreciated. Plan to keep searching until I find a good tutorial before i undertake a project like this.
Edit: Forgot to mention that i decided to change out all body mounts since they all look pretty rusted. Pray for me, hehe
Also on numerous posts there was a list of things that needed to be disconnected to lift the body up but in other posts it stated that just the negative battery cable had to be disconnected. I am just looking to lift the body up enough one side at a time to remove the old rubber and put in new screws and poly bushings. It looks like i will only have to lift it up about an inch or so to get it changed out.
I have had the bolts soaking in a rust breaker for the past week. If anyone happens to know a good spot to find a how-to preferably with some example photos it would be greatly appreciated. Plan to keep searching until I find a good tutorial before i undertake a project like this.
Edit: Forgot to mention that i decided to change out all body mounts since they all look pretty rusted. Pray for me, hehe
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,838
Likes: 10
From: Austin TX
Yeah,..I think you could tilt the body both ways but you'd have to remove the #1's and #4's and let it tilt on the 2's and 3's (loosened up) since they're in line with each other.
There's still a lot that has to be loosened or removed so check the list. Some things that come to mind: brake lines at the booster, rag joint, clutch linkage, radiator core at the frame, radiator fan/shroud, and most the bumper parts, front and rear.
But doing it your way, you may could do without disconnecting most cables and wiring.
Good luck and budget all weekend.
There's still a lot that has to be loosened or removed so check the list. Some things that come to mind: brake lines at the booster, rag joint, clutch linkage, radiator core at the frame, radiator fan/shroud, and most the bumper parts, front and rear.
But doing it your way, you may could do without disconnecting most cables and wiring.
Good luck and budget all weekend.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
From: Salt Lake City, UT
I just replaced mine without removing the body. I loosened all 8 of the body mount bolts, then removed all four bolts from one side.Leave one side still bolted, but very loose. Using a 2 x 4 (to spread the weight out)and a bottle jack, I lifted the body just far enough off of the frame to work the old mounts out. Numbers 1 and four were easy because they are exposed, but numbers 2 and 3 were a PITA. I had to work these out by carefully pulling out on the rocker channel with a pry bar (this is while I still had the body lifted with the jack), which gave me enough space between the frame and the channel to pull them out. Just take your time, and good luck.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: Arthur Illinois
Did you have to remove or loosen anything else other than the old mounts such as brake lines, etc. etc. when you changed your mounts out, 1974slcvette? Your method sounds like the method i was considering but after reading all the posts about other items that had to be loosened or removed I was starting to think i was getting even more over my head than i had anticipated.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
From: Salt Lake City, UT
I did not remove any lines, to include the ground from the battery. When I lifted the body, I just took it really slow, listened for anything binding, and kept my eye on anything that jumps from the frame to the body. I actually only needed to lift the body about 2 - 3 inches to get #2 and #3 out.
Last edited by 1974slcvette; Jun 20, 2007 at 01:02 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
Yeah,..I think you could tilt the body both ways but you'd have to remove the #1's and #4's and let it tilt on the 2's and 3's (loosened up) since they're in line with each other.
There's still a lot that has to be loosened or removed so check the list. Some things that come to mind: brake lines at the booster, rag joint, clutch linkage, radiator core at the frame, radiator fan/shroud, and most the bumper parts, front and rear.
But doing it your way, you may could do without disconnecting most cables and wiring.
Good luck and budget all weekend.
There's still a lot that has to be loosened or removed so check the list. Some things that come to mind: brake lines at the booster, rag joint, clutch linkage, radiator core at the frame, radiator fan/shroud, and most the bumper parts, front and rear.
But doing it your way, you may could do without disconnecting most cables and wiring.
Good luck and budget all weekend.
If the brake lines are coiled for stretch ... maybe leave them,
but gotta disconnect the steering coupler at least ... and bumper
to frame mounts.
Unfortunately, I lost many of my resto pics when I had a disk crash.
Show me a link to the post you refer to and I will try to dig up the pics to match.
I got your PM .. still looking for PDF to send (not my PDF, but shows some stuff).
PS - I did a full body-off ... not the 2-3 inch deal.
Last edited by NHvette; Jun 20, 2007 at 03:28 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 758
Likes: 14
From: Ville de la Baie Quebec. A winner is just a loser who tried again.
If the brake lines are coiled for stretch ... maybe leave them,
but gotta disconnect the steering coupler at least ... and bumper
to frame mounts.
Unfortunately, I lost many of my resto pics when I had a disk crash.
Show me a link to the post you refer to and I will try to dig up the pics to match.
I got your PM .. still looking for PDF to send (not my PDF, but shows some stuff).
PS - I did a full body-off ... not the 2-3 inch deal.
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Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: Arthur Illinois
Thank you guys for all of the posts. Definitely the kind of information i need before i start undertaking this project.
NHVette, the post i kept going back to was at:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ht=body+mounts
It was originally a post by MYBAD79 with a link to a pdf on your website. If you happen to stumble upon it, that would be great.
Thanks once again guys. I will try to get as many photos as possible for hopefully other people to use during this little expirement.
NHVette, the post i kept going back to was at:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ht=body+mounts
It was originally a post by MYBAD79 with a link to a pdf on your website. If you happen to stumble upon it, that would be great.
Thanks once again guys. I will try to get as many photos as possible for hopefully other people to use during this little expirement.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,212
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio TX
If the brake lines are coiled for stretch ... maybe leave them,
but gotta disconnect the steering coupler at least ... and bumper
to frame mounts.
Unfortunately, I lost many of my resto pics when I had a disk crash.
Show me a link to the post you refer to and I will try to dig up the pics to match.
I got your PM .. still looking for PDF to send (not my PDF, but shows some stuff).
PS - I did a full body-off ... not the 2-3 inch deal.
I found the copy that I downloaded back in the day.
http://kens71.com/docs/Body_mounts_small_file.pdf
enjoy
KO
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
Thanks Ken .. .for putting that up.
Fritzy ... emailed you to send the PDF, but no reply yet.
I have many pics. Here is one that is sure to save some time,
but if the #4 cage nut is rusted solid, you might have some extra work ahead.
I pulled the cage nuts at #4 and dropped a bolt from the top with big washers.
Here is a zip file with a bunch of #4 reinforcement pics.:
http://webpages.charter.net/davekimt...ges/4mount.zip
You may also get the strange and irresistable desire to clean and restore
the metal parts ... "while I'm at it".
Fritzy ... emailed you to send the PDF, but no reply yet.
I have many pics. Here is one that is sure to save some time,
but if the #4 cage nut is rusted solid, you might have some extra work ahead.
I pulled the cage nuts at #4 and dropped a bolt from the top with big washers.
Here is a zip file with a bunch of #4 reinforcement pics.:
http://webpages.charter.net/davekimt...ges/4mount.zip
You may also get the strange and irresistable desire to clean and restore
the metal parts ... "while I'm at it".
Last edited by NHvette; Jun 21, 2007 at 09:53 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
Those were pulled off - and there is a rear retainer piece, too.
Any steel you see restored in my vette is etched, POR15, and Krylon top coat.
Pretty sure the retainer piece is only accessible with the front fenders removed.
Well, looks like you can get it throught the foot vent ... if not blocked off (AC cars).
I actually blocked both mine off to keep warm air entering from the engine area.
I had the firewall removed, also.
Materials used to mount are polyurethane adhesive, 3/16 stainless pop rivets,
and backer washers are recommended for the rivets.
Might want to warn the wife that some parts might need to come inside to dry by the wood stove.
Any steel you see restored in my vette is etched, POR15, and Krylon top coat.
Pretty sure the retainer piece is only accessible with the front fenders removed.
Well, looks like you can get it throught the foot vent ... if not blocked off (AC cars).
I actually blocked both mine off to keep warm air entering from the engine area.
I had the firewall removed, also.
Materials used to mount are polyurethane adhesive, 3/16 stainless pop rivets,
and backer washers are recommended for the rivets.
Might want to warn the wife that some parts might need to come inside to dry by the wood stove.
Last edited by NHvette; Jun 21, 2007 at 01:22 PM.