i have a couple questions about engine removal.
im almost ready to take the engine out all i need is to remove the exhaust and tranny bolts anything else i should look out for, anything else i need to remove to before the engine comes out

thanks steve

 

If you have an Auto, I'd recommend keeping the drive pinion in the tranny (shaft disconnected of course); otherwise, ATF will pour everywhere when you ease the engine/tranny out--even if you did drain the tranny. Mine stayed in, but you can secure it w/duct tape. I love the work but hate the clean up.

 

Are you removing the engine and transmission together? I found it easier and less damaging to remove the radiator support it gives you more room. I assume you have the engine mount thru bolts ready to remove and there is the fuel lines and if it is an automatic you must remove the transmission cooling lines radiator and heater hoses wiring and the throttle linkage also if you have power steering those hoses must be disconnected and I would drain the engine oil and coolant before I remove the engine.

 

Disconnect Ground strap to block. Disconect dist & alt wiring. Pull power steering pump off or drain fluid from pump.

 

all the above has been done, with the exception with the mount thru bolts i have been looking, but not have found them where can i locate them.

thanks steve

 

Steve the engine mount thru bolts are located on each side of the engine. Look at the engine mount to frame there will be about a 4 inch long thru bolt I think its 3/8th diameter that is kind of a pain in the *** to get too . Also you will probably have to take the weight off of the engine to get the bolt to slide out . Good luck.

 

Pulled mine about 3 months ago. That sounds about it. It was easier to drain the tranny. I pulled mine out with the torque converter on because I couldnt get a bolt out so have a pan under the front of the tranny or you will be cleaning up a mess.

 

better to remove bolts from underneathe or above...

steve

 

geez guys, I pulled the motor out of my '78 last spring leaving the tranny in place - other than all the electrial, vacuum etc connections I just unbolted motor from the bellhousing and pulled it out and never lost so much as a drop of tranny oil. I left the torque converter in place and pulled that out later to paint it but everyone is saying that he is going to make a mess with all the tranny fluid if he seperates the two.

Maybe I did something wrong when I did mine and didn't lose any fluid??

 

Dont forget the shifter cable.

 

my 75 tranny needs to be pulled. i've never done one so........help on sequence

 

I don't know what you have removed already ... here is my list from my 74 (from memory):

Hood, but not the hinge
Engine oil and transmission fluid
Clutch Z bar linkage
Shift linkage
Oil pressure sensor (it looked like I might knock it off)
Alternator connector
Coolant temperature sensor wire
Power steering hydraulic lines
Oil fill tube (It was going to catch on my headers)
Speedo cable at the tranny
Throttle linkage
Distributor cap (so I didn't break it against the firewall when tilting the engine)
Ignition wires to distributor (mine had HEI on it)
Manifold vacuum line
Engine fan
Radiator hoses
Fan shroud
Radiator (Not sure if this is required)
Radiator support bolts (this will buy you a 2-3 inches of forward travel even if you don't completely remove the bracket)
Engine mounts bolts
Transmission mount bolts on transmission cross member
U joint bolts
Header (or exhaust manifold) bolts
Starter motor ground, positive and trigger wires
AC stuff (mine was already disconnected)

And some of the mistakes I made:

Get hardened mounting bolts to mount the leveling chain to the engine. This cost me an extra trip to the parts store.

However, the biggest problem I had was that my hoist leveler was cheap and didn't use bearings. I had to tilt my engine + tranny about 50-60 degrees to remove it with the radiator support still in. This required several hundred cranks of the leveler with a ratchet wrench. Since there was so much weight on it and the resistance was high, every crank bounced or swayed the engine.

Also, put wooden 1x4 boards through the engine compartment, between your tranny and the tunnel to prevent damage to the tunnel if there is any unexpected movement.

 

The easiest way to pull the engine and trans is to pull the body, not that big of a deal if you have a two or 4 post lift.

Just the engine remove Rad, shroud and all components from the front of engine, if using a cherry picker go in from the side.

I'm not a fan of pulling engine and trans out together.

 

I was able to pull my engine out of my 78 pretty easily from the side, also. Jacked up the front, pulled the driver side wheel, and slid the cherry picker in from there. Didn't even remove the hood or radiator. Torque converter stayed on the tranny.

 

Did the same when I took the 350 out of my 76 and installed a 454 big block. Hood stayed on, Radiator stayed in. Removed the shroud, propped up the transmission, and unbolted the bellhousing bolts and the flexplate from the torque converter which stayed in the trans. Diconnected the wires,fuel lines. unbolted the p/s pump from the block, moved it out of the way. Lifted the engine up a hair, enough to remove the 2 motor mount bolts. The removal and install was about 4 hours. Of course I still needed to install a bunch of conversion stuff up after the 454 was in place.

 

Am I missing a shortcut?

I have a 4 post lift in my garage and it took me about 10 hours to remove the extra stuff that body removal requires. This was with the engine already OUT of the car.

Other than the exhaust manifold and radiator, removing the body pretty much required everything that you have to detach to pull the engine PLUS the following:

8 body mount bolts (ouch)
Front bumper support (ouch)
Steering rag joint
Brake line + low brake pressure wire
Parking brake
Seat belts + safety wire
Rear light wiring harness
Rocker moldings
Splash shields
Kick panels
Body mount #3 access panels
Loosen rear bumper
Seats and battery to reduce weight
3+ Battery grounds