Big Block Battery Requirements
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Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Near Boston MA
Big Block Battery Requirements
Seeing I'm here, I may as well post this.....I'm curious what the suggested bottom line specs are for a battery to put in '69 427 that has been tweaked....Strictly nice weather driving; I can answer myself by saying "the highest specs I can afford" or something along that line, but I wonder if a motor that's not factory (Holley dual pumper, LS7 heads, Hooker Super Comps, etc.) would benefit in any way from improving the battery that I haven't thought of.
Right now we're chasing down a short that's causing a problem, so maybe while I'm at it........
p
Right now we're chasing down a short that's causing a problem, so maybe while I'm at it........
p
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Frederick Maryland
The general rule of thumb is to buy a battery with at least one cold cranking amp for every cubic inch of engine. The higher the reserve capacity is good also.
If you're willing to swing the money, get an Optima Red Top. Pricey but the best there is. A good alternative is the top battery sold by Wal Mart...it received a Best Buy rating in a recent test by Consumers Reports.
Installing a better battery isn't going to improve the car in any way beyond greater starting amperage and a longer time you can run directly off the battery should the alternator/regulator fail. The greater starting amperage can be a real help if you have a really high compression engine or have the timing really advanced. Otherwise, a better battery making the car run better is like saying a racing stripe makes the car go faster.
If you're willing to swing the money, get an Optima Red Top. Pricey but the best there is. A good alternative is the top battery sold by Wal Mart...it received a Best Buy rating in a recent test by Consumers Reports.
Installing a better battery isn't going to improve the car in any way beyond greater starting amperage and a longer time you can run directly off the battery should the alternator/regulator fail. The greater starting amperage can be a real help if you have a really high compression engine or have the timing really advanced. Otherwise, a better battery making the car run better is like saying a racing stripe makes the car go faster.
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From: Near Boston MA
Thanks...appreciate it. I didn't mean it would "help performance"....just curious, and your ratio....and your comment about making a high compression engine (which it is) start easier was what I was hoping to hear.
Even the AutoZone "economy" battery has almost 500 CCA; that would be sufficient for a stock 427 that's only driven in +60 degree weather
p
Even the AutoZone "economy" battery has almost 500 CCA; that would be sufficient for a stock 427 that's only driven in +60 degree weather
p
Le Mans Master
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From: LONG ISLAND
2025 C3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
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used a optima yellow top in my '68 / 427 though not original style it works great !!
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Pay real close attention to *how* they advertise. There are some crafty folks in the ad world if you didn't already know that.
For example...CCA are normally rated at *0* degrees...but you will see many these days with the rating at 32*. Sure inflates the numbers!
Also be aware that more CCA is not always a good thing. The only way you get more CCA in a battery is to increase surface area of the plates. You can add more plates..which usually means a larger case. OR...you can do how many mfgs do and install more..but thinner plates to fit inside a smaller case. That's fine....but the life expectancy of the battery is shorter because the plates are more prone to breaking and falling over against other plate causing a shorted cell.
I just use a basic 500 or so (not even sure off the top of my head) amp battery and it always cranks my 11.0 compression 540 just fine.
JIM
For example...CCA are normally rated at *0* degrees...but you will see many these days with the rating at 32*. Sure inflates the numbers!
Also be aware that more CCA is not always a good thing. The only way you get more CCA in a battery is to increase surface area of the plates. You can add more plates..which usually means a larger case. OR...you can do how many mfgs do and install more..but thinner plates to fit inside a smaller case. That's fine....but the life expectancy of the battery is shorter because the plates are more prone to breaking and falling over against other plate causing a shorted cell.
I just use a basic 500 or so (not even sure off the top of my head) amp battery and it always cranks my 11.0 compression 540 just fine.
JIM
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From: Near Boston MA
thanks...
Some great replies. Thank you. It's amazing how the seemingly simplest things have some intriguing layers, like 427hotrod's post about plate size.
Hopefully the weather will be great again tomorrow and I can hunt down the short.
If anyone's interested I'll post a few pics of the car.
p
Hopefully the weather will be great again tomorrow and I can hunt down the short.
If anyone's interested I'll post a few pics of the car.
p
Race Director
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From: Taylor Michigan
This is not true. All your ever buying is cranking power to go easy on your starter. What kills starters regardless the engine size or it`s compression is overheating from a weak battery or low reserve cranking amps. A extra $20 now will save you from more expensive break downs later. Get the original size Delco and be good for 6-7 years in the future...
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As a side note to all of this..while you're chasing a short.....go ahead and do some voltage drop testing on the main cables...positive and ground as well as the wiring to the solenoid. You would be amazed at how many *no hot start* etc issues are really just poor connections somewhere in the system. When only dealing with 12 volts, it doesn't take much resistance to drastically reduce available cranking amps.
JIM
JIM
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Concord CA
Here's another battery to check out.....Odyssey...a dry cell battery that works well if you call sits for long periods of time....I've installed a couple in my vettes with no issues...you can check out their website...good luck
