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the drivers side bolt that goes thru the frame and thru the front of the arm. i think it may be fused together. how do i get this thing out? there is no room to get any big wrench in where the brake line goes thru. i thought of unscrewing the brake lines and gently bending them and the holder out of the way ( the lines are new they should bent pretty easy)
If you got the nut off you can try an air hammer to knock the bolt out. If that isn't feasable then your goping to have to cut the bolt out. Get a supply od 8" sawzall blades and get after it. There are a LOT of threads in here on that job
Sawsal. Cut the bolt on each side of the TA between the arm and the frame pocket. Make sure you note what shims were where so you can reassemble it the same way.
Get the Remgrit blades at Home Depot. Cut mine out in 5 minutes. Went trough 3 Bimetal blades the first time I did this. 1 Remgrit did two bolts quick.
I feel for anyone doing this job. I had the body off mine and had to use a 3lb hammer and all my strength to knock that bolt out. I swear the car scooted when I hit it.
i used a rescue blade on mine and it cut right through it. just be carfull not to let the blade hit the back of the frame when you start cutting. the sawzall is the only way to go. i used a sledge and it did not budge.
i am going to home depot tomorrow, i actua;;y pulled a muscle in my arm putting pressure on the saws all. this sucks, i will get it done tomorrow night. thanks
wear some leather gloves, when that blade hits the back of the frame pocket., man my knuckles suffered on that job.
That's why you use 8" blades - they won't hit. 9" blades will. I made that mistake for about 10 seconds...then I drove over to ACE and bought the right blades.
I am in the process of doing mine. But i guess I have been lucky. I got the nut off and then with alot of hammer and punch work as well as heaps of trying to rotate the bolt with vise grips I eventually broke it loose and was able to punch it out. Oh yeah, I used heaps of Wd40/Inox and a ALOT of colourful Language.
I gotta find if there is a distributor here for that "PB" stuff I here you guys talk about so much.
I am in the process of doing mine. But i guess I have been lucky. I got the nut off and then with alot of hammer and punch work as well as heaps of trying to rotate the bolt with vise grips I eventually broke it loose and was able to punch it out. Oh yeah, I used heaps of Wd40/Inox and a ALOT of colourful Language.
I gotta find if there is a distributor here for that "PB" stuff I here you guys talk about so much.
PB blaster has nothing on Aero-Kroil
I can relate..the Sawzall was the only way I could get my drivers side TA off..hard work
Ahhh Yes, my favorite little friends are back to haunt someone else. Be careful with the saw, make sure you don't slice into the side of the trailing arm sleeve like i did. And do yourself (or the next guy) a favor and replace with the stainless kit. Good Luck!
I am in the process of doing mine. But i guess I have been lucky. I got the nut off and then with alot of hammer and punch work as well as heaps of trying to rotate the bolt with vise grips I eventually broke it loose and was able to punch it out. Oh yeah, I used heaps of Wd40/Inox and a ALOT of colourful Language.
I gotta find if there is a distributor here for that "PB" stuff I here you guys talk about so much.
Sawing through the bolt on either side of the T/A bushing is the easy part. The trick is to expose the bolt on both sides by removing the shims. The best way I have found to do that is with a slide hammer using a hook end. Put the hook through the cotter pin hole in the shim and slide hammer away. Of course, you must first use a cold chizel the move the shims out of the T/A pocket, so they can be pulled off the bolt and out of the way. Harbor Freight has just what you need.
for less than $20. After the shims are removed the sawsall makes fast work of the exposed bolts. Good luck....it's a tough job no matter how easy you make it! http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=5469