I had my frame powder coated and am re-attaching the ground wires, etc. What is the correct prototcol for attaching ground wires to frame/engine, core support, etc etc. ??... removing any paint to bare metal then coataing with something? It seems as though the paint or powder coat would prevent any opportunity for a perfect ground...

 

You must get down to shiny metal for a good ground. You can use dielectric grease to prevent corrosion, if you want.

 

I think you are right on track. You want the ground on bare metal. I would also probably dress it up with a bit of paint to keep your frame looking clean after all the powdercoating.. Just my 2 pennies..

 

Thanks - I will check on the dielectric grease .. is there a mastic type super goop to spread on the actual connection to prevent rust?? Is like POR 15 appropriate?

Found this on Google.... "EVEN SLIGHT OXIDATION TO THE METAL SURFACE REDUCES THE CURRENT FLOW."

Found this on Google.... discussing existing grounding procedures/styles... Note the last statement which seems to be what I need to do.

The [one current method] provides numerous systems for providing such an electrical ground in automotive vehicles. The simplest system comprises the use of a self-tapping screw which is secured to a suitable location on the vehicle and which holds the ground wire to the vehicle. This method is highly susceptible to having the ground connection deteriorate with a resulting increase in electrical resistance, as well as shaking loose entirely during normal operation of the vehicle.

An improved [one current method] system involves the use of a welded ground stud. Where welded ground studs are used, the welding is necessarily done before painting. Therefore, the washer portion and the threads of the stud become painted during the painting operation. It is necessary to protect the stud's washer and threads from the paint, or else to strip the paint off before using the ground stud as an electrical ground. If the paint were not stripped off, the paint would insulate the stud, thus totally destroying the electrical grounding function of the stud.

Also, if a ground wire and nut were forced down the threads of a conventional fully painted stud, the wire would be insulated from the painted washer portion. While some paint would be stripped out of the threads by the nut, this stripped off paint could be pushed onto the washer, thus further obstructing the electrical grounding function of the stud. In addition, the stripped paint will likely produce a "soft" joint which may loosen as the paint erodes away.

Other [current method] systems involve other means for stripping the paint from the welded stud's threads. This involves additional steps, additional labor, additional cost, delays, opportunities to damage the stud, opportunities to get stripped off paint on the electrical grounding surfaces, and the like.

 

ttt

 

As above. You need metal to metal contact. Sand or grind to remove all corrosion and paint. Use a conductive anti corosive compound between joints--Coppercoat, etc.-- for best joint, but not totally needed. Wipe off any excess compound, then paint to match.
Also, as above, a screw is just a temp emergency fix. Welding a stud is good, but maybe a bit excessive. Use a bolt.

 

Coppercoat - done deal

 

Use starlock washers under all ground bolts/screws, too.

 

Alrighty then... I finally got down to checking out CopperCoat - boy they have a nice website that shows how it is used.

My task on Monday will be to find a dealer and a small amount.


Glenkov - are you recommending this for the ability to seal out moisture - or the copper content to enhance contact?...or both? Sounds like really ...REALLY good stuff. I would still use dielectric grease under the connection though correct? I forgot to ask Hi-Lo Auto Parts (O'Reilley's) what brands of dielectric grease they carry.

BTW - I got the star washers too

 

Use a star washer. That's all you need. It will bite thru the paint. It's a car, not the space shuttle.

 

yeah .... I know.. but its worth more than the shuttle to me... Just checking out all the avenues..... I am using the star washers, but I do not think they would get through the thick powder coating themselves. What is different here is I will be clearing the all metal coating at point of contact and need to ensure a good rust preventative.

Regarding the Coppercoat - if it is real expensive or large quantity minimums, I will do an alternative. But from reading the website this stuff is awesome and a good recommendation.