I was just going to start yanking on it till I figured out where the screws are but I thought that wouldn't be a good idea. Are there any in the engine compartment that need to be removed?

 

I don't know about your Vette but other heater boxes I have removed have had studs thru the firewall with nuts to remove from inside the engine compartment.

If you don't have an AIM (Assembly Instruction Manual) for your model year I would highly recommend it. I couldn't do without mine.

 

I got the duct work in the picture out now I just gotta work on the heater box.

 

Studs through the firewall with tin nuts on them. Pull all of the nuts from around the box under the hood and both sides will come out.

 

Here are the steps from my shop manual.
1 Disconnect battery ground cable
2 Drain radiator
3 Disconnect heater hoses at core connections by air inlet assembly and install plugs in core tubes to prevent spilling coolant when removing core and air distributor assembly
4 Remove the nuts from the heater distributor studs on engine side of dash panel
5 Remove right intrument panel pad
6 remove right hand dash braces
7 Remove center dash console duct and floor duct
8 Remove radio and center dash console
9 Pull (heater) distributor assembly from dash panel mounting.
When clearance is obtained, disconnect bowden cables and resistor wires and remove distributor assembly from the vehicle.

 

There is one bolt on the engine side. All the rest are on the inside. I assume you are changing the core? If you can't get the hoses off clean cut them off near the core. Then remove the excess hose from the core or the box won't pull out. Other wise you are 90% there.

Jim

 

For AC cars, there are two sections: first half under the hood; second half under the dash.

 

you need to get the center gage cluster out of the way.

 

I got the gauge cluster out along with all the duct work. I found this last night when running a search and After looking over this I think It will be a piece of cake. Thanks for all the help guyS!

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...re+replacement

 

Yep that center Cluster needs to come out to do this job. I did the job back in the mid '70s on a '72 Coupe I owned back then being I had a bad heater core. I have to do the same job again on the '73 that I own but have not found the time to do it as of yet. Since the car sits all winter I just have the heater core by-passed for now. When taking the heater box out you are going to have to tilt it a certain way because the heater core lines go down the fire wall so you will have to tilt it back some in order to get the lines to come out smoothly and will have to do the same when installing it with the new core.

A word of advice to anyone doing this job. I am being very serious about this. Go out and get yourself a bicycle tube. Take it out of the box it comes in and hold it up with the valve stem at the 12'oclock position. At the 6'oclock position cut the tube in half. Now taken the 2 open ends of the tube and connect them to your brand new heater core with 2 hose clamps. Get a 5 gallon bucket and fill it 3/4 of the way up with water. Put the new heater core in the water and put some air into the bicycle tube until the tube fills with air. Now look for any leaks in the heater core. If no leaks take the core out and you are good to go. Just dry it off some with some compressed air or let dry on its own. This way you just saved yourself a lot of extra work just in case that brand new heater core is not perfect and might possibly have a leak. I have seen it before and it is better to know ahead of time especially on one of these C-3 Corvettes before you do the big job of putting everything back into the dash. I don't know of anyone that would want to do this big job over because of a defective new heater core and where half of these parts are coming from anymore why take a chance.

 

Is this the same procedure for a 78? I would assume it would be, but ASSUME - you know the meaning...

 

I would say so since the C-3 didn't change very much. Get yourself a manual to be sure before you start. I haven't done the job on anything newer then the '72 I once owned and even at that it was many years ago. I am sure there is no difference in my '73 since it doesn't look like anything is any different in my case. '78 or should I say '77's on up have a different style dash but that shouldn't make much of a difference. I am willing to guess behind the dash not much changed.