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Hey guys.
Just got my first corvette, 1980, and I am looking for some expert advice. I would like to increase the performance (L48) if I can without major mechanical surgery. I understand that a new exhaust will help? What about catalytic converters? Does adding headers with catalytic converters defeat the purpose? What else can I do to free up this motor? Or, should I just leave it alone and enjoy it the way it is? I am having lots of fun just driving it around the neighborhood! One more thing, The "Brake" light stays on. I think maybe the caliper seals are shot? Thanks everyone.
HP cost $$, what do you want to do with it?
You have about the best year for doing mods, no computer limitations or complications (I happen to like the computer) great body style.
Do you have to go thru emissions testing? If no, then long headers 2 1/2 true duals with no cats, good mufflers and lose the air pump will get it breathing better. If you DO have to do emissions, then you can still do the exhaust with the addition of hi flow cats and keep the air pump, it doesn't use very much HP, but it sure cleans up the engine bay with it gone.
What intake do you have? The Edlebrock 2101 is a very good one, cheap and aluminum and fits under stock hood
A cam change can be done to get you a lil more.
After that, it gets expensive: New heads, different cam.....
Your life has changed, it will never be the same. Welcome to the machine! Your obsession is made of fiberglass and steel and the only offering you can make involves bushel baskets of cash. May Duntov bless you.
The "Brake" light stays on. I think maybe the caliper seals are shot? Thanks everyone.
Welcome!
If the car has sat for an extended time it may have air in the system. The light indicates an imbalance between front and rear or the ebrake handle is not completely down. Check the handle first. After the car sits over night, look for brake fluid on the inside of the tires. It will drip down the side wall from the caliper. If you are dry, your seals are ok for now. If all that checks out, bleed the brakes to remove any air; if that doesn't put the light out then press down on the brake pedal as hard as you can and hold it for a few seconds. This will reset the proportioning valve.
Easy Mike:
Where is Horse Cave? I was born and raised In Ashland. I'll get the brakes checked out ASAP!
SixFooter:
I do have to have emissions test so I need the cats, i guess. Will it be worth going to duels, headers, good cats, or should I just get a better single cat and some cool mufflers? Do I need a new carb with the intake you mentioned? I don't think I am wanting to mess with a new cam right now. Maybe when I get my new garage built.
Your life has changed, it will never be the same. Welcome to the machine! Your obsession is made of fiberglass and steel and the only offering you can make involves bushel baskets of cash. May Duntov bless you.
Your life will only get better the more $$$ you you offer...don't keep track!!!
There was fluid on the deck where the right passenger side wheel had been. I bought the car from an wonderful 80 year old lady. She told me it had not been driven much over the past two years.
In 1967, Federal law mandated a dual brake system on new cars sold in the usa. Popping the master cyl cap off, you will see 2 resevoirs ( yes, my spelling sucks), one for the rear and one for the front. In theroy, you have 2 equal braking systems. Thats why you can still stop with a leaking front caliper( unless its a tiny leak..but ALL leaks are big trouble safty wise). You really do need to do your brakes ,system wise,dont just do one wheel. You can get away with doing just the fronts,or just the backs,as long as you do both wheels on that end of the car. All this being said, I myself,advise, doing all four wheels. The car has sat for a prolonged time and I believe the leak is indicative of a safty problem that needs to be addressed soon. Its fun to go,but you gotta be able to whoa. welcome to the forum,good luck...and am laughing at the FNG...havent seen that since the army. Oh, by the way..that master cylinder just might need attention too. I think if you go the stainless steel route..I heard its about 800 bucks.Dont know if its with labor, or if you can save doing it yourself.Someone else can tell you better than me.
Last edited by ghoastrider1; Jul 26, 2007 at 05:17 PM.
There was fluid on the deck where the right passenger side wheel had been. it had not been driven much over the past two years.
typical for a C3 which has been sitting for a spell, and/or not driven much.
you're probably gonna need new replacement calipers which have stainless sleeves in the piston bores, and if you don't intend to drive it much, I highly recommend to go with O-ring sealed calipers.
anything you can do to help the engine "breathe", will reward performance. (remember the laws of emissions testing where applicable)
Bardstown Ky here; welcome to the Forum and the class of C3 fiberglass
adding headers and free flowing exaust can add up to %20 HP, now depending on what u think is extensive engine work, adding alluminum heads, and a big CAM can help a LOT
but dont over do it with the compression ratio because then youll hav to go to higher octain fuel
typical for a C3 which has been sitting for a spell, and/or not driven much.
you're probably gonna need new replacement calipers which have stainless sleeves in the piston bores, and if you don't intend to drive it much, I highly recommend to go with O-ring sealed calipers.
anything you can do to help the engine "breathe", will reward performance. (remember the laws of emissions testing where applicable)
Bardstown Ky here; welcome to the Forum and the class of C3 fiberglass
Spend the money for good brakes (o-ring calipers, mastercyl. and a good brake bleed,( I used the silicone dot 5) and you'll get years of good service. and no worries