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Ace hardware stores and a few other places have something called Purple Power. It's a concentrate cleaner in a white jug that you cut with water and soak parts in. I had some horribly dirty Caddy pistons and a soak overnight in PP they wiped clean with a rag. Fantastic stuff for cutting hard grease, grime, and carbon.
In your case you could just spray it in, let it sit, and wipe them clean.
Ace hardware stores and a few other places have something called Purple Power. It's a concentrate cleaner in a white jug that you cut with water and soak parts in. I had some horribly dirty Caddy pistons and a soak overnight in PP they wiped clean with a rag. Fantastic stuff for cutting hard grease, grime, and carbon.
In your case you could just spray it in, let it sit, and wipe them clean.
That might be expensive with a round trip ticket from France. I suggest a wire wheel in a drill motor.
That might be expensive with a round trip ticket from France. I suggest a wire wheel in a drill motor.
Oops...I missed that.
It may be sold there. If nothing else, get some heavy duty kitchen cleaner, live oven cleaner. That's work well too since Purple Power is basically a strong oven cleaner.
It may be sold there. If nothing else, get some heavy duty kitchen cleaner, live oven cleaner. That's work well too since Purple Power is basically a strong oven cleaner.
That would be sodium hydroxide. Not very aluminum friendly. I would stick with the wire wheel.
Just did this myself over the past few days. We scraped the heaviest buildup off the pistons with a small screwdriver, then used the wire-wheel/drill method mentioned above.
Being that the engine is removed, what are you planning to do with it? Seriously, since it's out and easily accessible, why not remove the pan and take the pistons out? I'd much rather clean them (pistons)removed from the engine so that if particles accidently wind up in the rings, they can easily be flushed out. Also, an opportunity to check bearings. It doesn't take that long.
Being that the engine is removed, what are you planning to do with it? Seriously, since it's out and easily accessible, why not remove the pan and take the pistons out? I'd much rather clean them (pistons)removed from the engine so that if particles accidently wind up in the rings, they can easily be flushed out. Also, an opportunity to check bearings. It doesn't take that long.
That whole block looks pretty cruddy. Look at the water jackets. Things like that make it overheat.
The top of the pistons aren't the real problem. It's the carbon that it built up on the sides on top of the compression ring and underneath all 3 rings in the grooves that cause all the problems, including cylinder scoring.
Any reason why you can't take it apart and clean everything properly?
Soak the pistons in real carb cleaner and all the carbon etc will dissolve away. Don't use a broken ring to clean the grooves.
Here is a dirty piston.
Here it is after being soaked in laquer thinner and scotch pads, but carb cleaner is the proper way.
Thanks ya all
You're probably right. I have to remove pistons.
At first it was not in my plan because I don't have the proper tools for piston install.
I have to order them and it will delay my rebuild
While I'm at it, do you think I shall change my rings ?
Last edited by Le shark81; Jul 28, 2007 at 02:35 AM.
Well I blew both of my head gaskets, which caused the radiator fluid to leak into the pistons.... In the end I had to replace all the gaskets but my pistons were steamed cleaned very nicely....
Thanks ya all
You're probably right. I have to remove pistons.
At first it was not in my plan because I don't have the proper tools for piston install.
I have to order them and it will delay my rebuild
While I'm at it, do you think I shall change my rings ?
While it is apart you can do this on the cheap
-Lightly scuff up the cyl walls with a flex (ball) hone 220grit.
-New cast rings. Cheap
-Check the size of the crank and rod bearings and just put in new bearings, no need to regind or anything.
-New stock oil pump
-Clean all parts as best you can and reassemble.
This isn't the best way to do it, but without a major rebuild it will work well for approx 30,000 plus miles, if that is your intention. Det a complete rering kit for all the gaskets and rings. Usually the cheapest.
Thanks to all the good advices I changed my mind and will change bearings and rings while I'm at it.
Everything else is new except crank, pistons and rods.
Thanks to all the good advices I changed my mind and will change bearings and rings while I'm at it.
Everything else is new except crank, pistons and rods.