Motor mounts?
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,871
Likes: 6
From: Sault Ste. Marie Ontario
It's easy enough to do with basic tools, but you may want a device to lift the motor from the top a few inches. I don't like jacking from the bottom pan.
Cruising
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Scotch Plains New Jersey
Vibration vs. smoothness
The rubber mount are meant to isolate the frame from engine vibrations and allow the engine to torque-over a bit. Solid mounts are stronger, directly tie the engine to frame and during heavy launches keeps the drive train in alignment. For street driving I'd go with rubber-a good set from Energy Suspension. For drag racing I'd go with the solid steel. Don't forget the trans mount - you have a rubber vs. solid choice here too.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 339
Likes: 0
From: San Jose CA
Eeek! That's something I hadn't considered before ordering my solid mounts. I should get them next Thursday.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
The rubber mount are meant to isolate the frame from engine vibrations and allow the engine to torque-over a bit. Solid mounts are stronger, directly tie the engine to frame and during heavy launches keeps the drive train in alignment. For street driving I'd go with rubber-a good set from Energy Suspension. For drag racing I'd go with the solid steel. Don't forget the trans mount - you have a rubber vs. solid choice here too.
2 - there are three choices at every point - rubber, POLY or solid.
3 - don't install solids at all three points - if using solid engine mounts, use a rubber or poly trans mount. Otherwise, that aluminum transmission case will likely crack.
4 - there are a number of guys here running solids on the street with no problems at all. Run an archives search for info on the pros/cons of the swap in a C3.
First I've heard of that problem, and there are quite a few guys around here running solids.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 7,098
Likes: 378
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Try bolting the rubber mounts.
I used the ol' hot rodder trick - drill a hole through the stock type rubber mounts and install a 1/4-20 bolt & lock nut (no room for washers). Actually i had 2 holes in the metal brackets so i just drilled on through the rubber and installed 2 bolts. Use thin lock nuts only snugged on - no torque - allows the mount to sqiwish the rubber some for vibration dampning. Has worked great so far but few miles due to wiped cam (another story).
I had the old mounts give at the drag strip and eat the fan shroud so i needed to do something.
Maybe the old mounts were broke from the trans-shop or previous owner - who knows?
But i feel this is the best fix now and never liked the poly mounts nor solid mounts.
Good luck and hope this helps.
cardo0
I had the old mounts give at the drag strip and eat the fan shroud so i needed to do something.
Maybe the old mounts were broke from the trans-shop or previous owner - who knows? But i feel this is the best fix now and never liked the poly mounts nor solid mounts.Good luck and hope this helps.
cardo0
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,155
Likes: 0
From: San Diego California
I just installed the POLY engine mounts- I think they were Energy Suspensions, from Summit. I'm really happy with them. You can feel a little more engine vibration and thats a good thing - not offensive. They should last forever.