Silly problem to have.
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The ignition cylinder seized and the key snapped off at the hilt. The key is stuck in the seized cylinder and the assembly won't turn. The steering wheel is locked turned to the right pretty hard from parking.
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I have a buddy with a trailer that we want to load it on but with the wheels turned it won't ever roll up there right. I have to get it moved by this morning or the store is going to have it towed at my expense and the owner said that usually costs the people over a hundred.
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Is there a way to pull the ignition cylinder out so I can unlock the steering wheel or just a way to disable the steering wheel lock?
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Thanks, and please hurry.
www.towtrailer.com/images/diagram.jpg
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The ignition cylinder seized and the key snapped off at the hilt. The key is stuck in the seized cylinder and the assembly won't turn. The steering wheel is locked turned to the right pretty hard from parking.
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I have a buddy with a trailer that we want to load it on but with the wheels turned it won't ever roll up there right. I have to get it moved by this morning or the store is going to have it towed at my expense and the owner said that usually costs the people over a hundred.
-
Is there a way to pull the ignition cylinder out so I can unlock the steering wheel or just a way to disable the steering wheel lock?
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Thanks, and please hurry.
The ones that I spoke with all say they will have to dolly front wheels and lift from the back, and then the charges go up around or higher than $100.
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The locksmith I called said the cylinder has to come out of the key broke off wedged in like I described. I would almost rather do that myself if I can figure out how to get the cylinder out.
Ignition locks don't sieze up.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
On to the real problem, in order to get the old switch out, you need to remove the steering wheel, the turn signal, the steering lock plate and then the switch. The switch should have a retainer screw (bolt, something), when you undo that retainer, the lock/switch should slide out......email me if you need to

Still, chances are it didn't.
Before working on the steering column, it is always best to disconnect the battery.
I have a paper that describes some simple tools that you can cobble to remove the broken key. Here is the address:
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...actionTool.pdf
You can remove the lock cylinder from your steering column with the broken key bit still in the lock cylinder. However, you should try and turn your lock cylinder to the RUN position when extracting it from the column housing. With the key in the cylinder (or the broken key) there is a small plastic tab that sticks out and engages the key warning buzzer switch when you have the lock cylinder in any position but RUN. (When in the RUN position, the tab retracts back into the lock cylinder.) That small tab (if sticking out) can damage the key buzzer switch. So you want to either remove the broken key or make sure you turn the cylinder to RUN before pulling the lock cylinder.
The following paper and pictures describe how to remove the lock cylinder from a T&T steering column.
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...dr1-22au07.doc
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...ge1-12FE06.doc
Lastly, you will find that when you remove the steering wheel and hub there is a plastic retainer on top of the toothed steering column lock plate. If that retainer is original to your steering column you will most likely find that it will crumble into pieces. Without the retainer in place, the large spring that is part of the cancelling cam will contact metal parts of the column and your horn will blow continuously. The part is called a retainer and is available through GM dealers as well as various Vette suppliers. Be prepared to purchase this part.
GM Part #7808385 Retainer
Zip Products - Part #SC-517 69-82 Cancelling Cam Plastic Retainer
Good luck,
Jim
















