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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 07:55 AM
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Default New guy, need some advice.

Hi, I have found a 1978 Corvette down the street from me for sale, guy wants 4K for it. It has a rebuilt engine and tranny with less than 10K on each. The paint is kinda messed up (which is ok because I know a guy who knows a guy) and the interior could use some work. Both these are the reason that the price is so low. I was just wondering if there is anything specific I should look at and make sure is ok? Im thinking to take it to a mechanic before I commit. I have been wanting a StingRay since I was 8, and this really is a dream come true for me, but I don't want to get to over excited and buy something that is going to crap out on me. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 08:22 AM
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About the only thing to make that a less than good deal is rust. Pull the kick panels and look at the #2 body mounts, post pics. No matter how it looks, make a big deal out of how bad it is (LOL).
Ruse in the windshield frame is a PITA to fix, so it IS a big deal. Luuk up indide the door mount pillars with a light and mirror and see whats up there. Check the frame in front of the rear wheels and poke around on it with a screwdriver, bad rust here is a deal killer too.
Peel the carpet back and look at the floors on both sides, see how it looks there too
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 08:27 AM
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thanks for the info, the floors don't have carpet, they were old and crappy so the owner took em out and was going to replace them and then decided to sell ... but the floors look good, ill check out those other spots when i go back in a few days. thanks again.. does anyone happen to have leather seats for the 78 they wanna sell?? the seats in this one are kinda ripped, and while still comfy, they dont look to good.
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 08:29 AM
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4k is kinda cheap . Did you start it? put it in gear, pull up the park brake, check the guages, etc etc etc. I assume its an automatic.

I'd say look at the frame and trailing arms for excessive rust. and fwiw, to me, the 78/79 has the best overall (well balanced) look of the post chrome cars.

I bought mine with stars in my eyes and made excuses for everything I could clearly see was wrong with it. But I had to buy on the cheap, because I don't have deep pockets. That was 12 years ago and I still don't regret buying it, or miss any of the money thats been poured into it. and it still is only half way done.
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 09:26 AM
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Yes, he took me for a ride in it .. all the gears work it drives like a dream, it had been sitting for about 2 months, and it started right up with no hesitation. I have never smiled so much in my life as when he took off. it is indeed an auto (which kinda bummed me out) but it was still awesome.
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 09:28 AM
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the only other thing i don't like about it is it doesnt have the 8track player. he put in a regular cd player.
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 09:34 AM
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first,it would help if you filled out your profile. That makes it seem a bit more personel.
4 grand is about right for a car needing paint and interior,for that model year. Actually,its a bit on the low side,5 grand being the usual bench mark.
Make sure all the dash stuff works too. As these gentelmen stated, rust can be a real deal breaker.Main three areas are just in front of the rear wheels in the frame kick up area, birdcage rust, body mount rust.
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 09:36 AM
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You could be in for a great ride. Have a competent mechanic go over the car very carefully. Have him check for frame rust in the kick up area in front of the rear wheels, birdcage(around the windshield frame), and check front and rear suspension. If these items are OK you should have few expensive issues. Interior trim is available from all catalog vendors and most parts are readily available. 76's are not real collectible so their prices are not high but if you intend to send out all your work you may want to look for a car that has been fully restored. Sending out restoration work can be expensive most members of this forum enjoy doing the mechanical work themselves. This saves money and brings great personal enjoyment. If you don't want to do the work yourself it is usually best to buy a done car.
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 09:37 AM
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This is what I would look for. If you see this, walk away.



(no, this isn't mine)

As far as the automatic goes, when all is said and done, the cost of converting my 81 from automatic to manual came in at just under $1,000 for everything including new clutch pack and all genuine (albeit used) 1979 Corvette pieces parts. (and 2 year only shifter bracket)

oh... and when you bring it home, build a web page for it documenting your history with it. Best thing I ever did to keep me motivated in the snow months.




Originally Posted by cncfreak247
Yes, he took me for a ride in it .. all the gears work it drives like a dream, it had been sitting for about 2 months, and it started right up with no hesitation. I have never smiled so much in my life as when he took off. it is indeed an auto (which kinda bummed me out) but it was still awesome.
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 09:59 AM
  #10  
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I plan on doing any of the work I can myself and only sending it out for paint. and like I said, I kno a guy so I can get it done cheaper than not. Ill definately be taking it to a mechanic.

I reallize its on the cheap side, the guy said there were two reasons for that, 1. it needs paint and interior 2. he needs money fast lol. Ill be going back for pictures probally tomorrow, and will be taking it to mechanic this weekend. im hoping to have it in my possession by the end of next week the latest thanks for all the advice!
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 11:05 AM
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In the pic of the rusty frame you can see one of the keyhole shaped holes in the bottom of the rail. There are a number of holes along the bottom of the frame rails and trans crossmember. Feel inside the holes for rust and scale. There will surely be some, but if you find 1/8" thick chunks and lots of them that means the frame has serious rust issues. If the seller will let you, use a pointed hammer and bang along the transmission crossmember and the areas under the trailing arm pockets.

If you felt like taking a trip up to Easton I'd be happy to take a look at the frame for you. I have more experience than I'd like with rusty frames.





Rick B.
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 11:14 AM
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That would be awesome, but I doubt the owner will let me take the car to easton without me buying the car lol, I could always see if he will let me put a down payment on it i suppose. Ill let you know if we can set something up.
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 11:32 AM
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I've never seen rusty aluminum (differential)

I'm a native of Lynn/Swampscott. And in the 44 years I lived on the North Shore, I've seen some cars rust out in 3 years and others last longer than believable. My 81 was owned originally by someone in Miami, who luckily for me, had the frame undercoated. I bought it from a dealer in Ipswich with 90k + on the clock.

So the 78 in question may be solid. If not, it's probably a rust bucket. There really is no in between in Massachusetts on the east (in my experience). Massachusetts is second only to California for stupid auto regulations. I left in 1996... I don't see returning in my future.



Originally Posted by 72LS1Vette
In the pic of the rusty frame you can see one of the keyhole shaped holes in the bottom of the rail. There are a number of holes along the bottom of the frame rails and trans crossmember. Feel inside the holes for rust and scale. There will surely be some, but if you find 1/8" thick chunks and lots of them that means the frame has serious rust issues. If the seller will let you, use a pointed hammer and bang along the transmission crossmember and the areas under the trailing arm pockets.

If you felt like taking a trip up to Easton I'd be happy to take a look at the frame for you. I have more experience than I'd like with rusty frames.





Rick B.
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by cncfreak247
That would be awesome, but I doubt the owner will let me take the car to easton without me buying the car lol, I could always see if he will let me put a down payment on it i suppose. Ill let you know if we can set something up.
If you can get some good pics of the frame rails and kickup area and post them we can give you a pretty good assessment of the frame. Take off one or both rear wheels - tell him you want to look at the brakes - and get some photos of the trailing arms and differential crossmember.



Rick B.
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