more evaluation help
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,693
Likes: 157
From: Miami, FL
more evaluation help
Hi guys,
I'm becoming seriously interested in a car which I have still only seen pictures of. I have discussed with the owner, and if other things go well in my life in the coming weeks I will likely be taking a trip to see it, and maybe buy of course.
I'm looking for critical views. While it is nice to get "she's a beauty" type comments back, I really need the trained eyes to find faults. I also understand the pictures do not show the trouble spots, so I will be preparing myself to look at these areas on my excursion.
What I am told is this is the original paint, and is thought to be original in most every other way, but there is incomplete history on the car so I will need to check all the numbers to ensure this is the case. Otherwise I am not as interested.
http://picasaweb.google.com/cartlin/...98793894996306
Please comment.
Thanks,
Greg
I'm becoming seriously interested in a car which I have still only seen pictures of. I have discussed with the owner, and if other things go well in my life in the coming weeks I will likely be taking a trip to see it, and maybe buy of course.
I'm looking for critical views. While it is nice to get "she's a beauty" type comments back, I really need the trained eyes to find faults. I also understand the pictures do not show the trouble spots, so I will be preparing myself to look at these areas on my excursion.
What I am told is this is the original paint, and is thought to be original in most every other way, but there is incomplete history on the car so I will need to check all the numbers to ensure this is the case. Otherwise I am not as interested.
http://picasaweb.google.com/cartlin/...98793894996306
Please comment.
Thanks,
Greg
Last edited by gccch; Sep 27, 2007 at 02:43 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
The outside of the car looks pretty good. No bubbles in the fiberglass from the headlight support bar. Looks like some money has been spent on the interior. The engine bay looks a little uglier - not the engine itself but the surrounding area.
The big concern is that there are no pictures of the underside of the car. That's where all the expensive problems originate. Given the neglect in the engine bay I would insist on detailed pics of the frame, steering and suspension components.
Here is what mine looked like when I bought it:
And here is what was underneath. I knew there were rust issues but it was worse than I thought:
Rick B.
The big concern is that there are no pictures of the underside of the car. That's where all the expensive problems originate. Given the neglect in the engine bay I would insist on detailed pics of the frame, steering and suspension components.
Here is what mine looked like when I bought it:
And here is what was underneath. I knew there were rust issues but it was worse than I thought:
Rick B.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,640
Likes: 287
From: Ann Arbor Michigan
You need as many, or more, pictures of the frame and suspension as you have body pics. I think I noticed it had Michigan plates, if it spent it's whole life here, rust could be a major problem. Check out the bird cage close also. Looks like it needs a paint job, but if it's a real LT-1, it would be worth it. Is it a real LT-1?
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
I would be interested too, that's a beautiful car no doubt. Buuut, beauty is only skin deep, and there may be a whole mess of rust and rot waiting under that pretty body.
As said, get it checked out thoroughly before you put any money in the seller's hand.
As said, get it checked out thoroughly before you put any money in the seller's hand.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,693
Likes: 157
From: Miami, FL
The car has been garaged and driven very little since 1980, and is supposed to have about 40k miles. I am told it is a real LT-1, and has had very little work done to it since 1980 at least. I am researching prior to that, but it may not be available.
This is also the original interior but it has been worked on.... it's had the color changed (I've had other posts on this topic but would like to hear more comments with the pics).
Greg
This is also the original interior but it has been worked on.... it's had the color changed (I've had other posts on this topic but would like to hear more comments with the pics).
Greg
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,693
Likes: 157
From: Miami, FL
The outside of the car looks pretty good. No bubbles in the fiberglass from the headlight support bar. Looks like some money has been spent on the interior. The engine bay looks a little uglier - not the engine itself but the surrounding area.
The big concern is that there are no pictures of the underside of the car. That's where all the expensive problems originate. Given the neglect in the engine bay I would insist on detailed pics of the frame, steering and suspension components.
Here is what mine looked like when I bought it:
Rick B.
The big concern is that there are no pictures of the underside of the car. That's where all the expensive problems originate. Given the neglect in the engine bay I would insist on detailed pics of the frame, steering and suspension components.
Here is what mine looked like when I bought it:
Rick B.
Do you have any other close ups of the problem areas?
Racer
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 265
Likes: 1
I grew up in the north east (Canada actually). I can tell you what driving a car only 5 winters can do to the suspension and other parts underneath. I would check carefully the frame and birdcage. Especially the #4 body mounts, they will tell you a great deal. Mine had rust worse then 72LS1Vette's Vette and it was a California/Arizona car all its life. So even if it was garaged since 1980, that might not mean too much.
It is a very nice looking car indeed from the pics.
Andrew
It is a very nice looking car indeed from the pics.
Andrew
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
Rick B.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,589
Likes: 5
From: Salisbury Maryland
The lines look really good in the pictures. Is it a real LT1? Documented? Why no underside pictures? That in itself points to something the seller may be hiding, because a Vette buyer usually looks underneath first(well not always).
As stated above, you've got to see the car and find out. If it's been sitting that long you're looking at some issues like brakes, etc.
Lot's of experience in here to fall back on.
As stated above, you've got to see the car and find out. If it's been sitting that long you're looking at some issues like brakes, etc.
Lot's of experience in here to fall back on.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,693
Likes: 157
From: Miami, FL
Schmeggie,
Thanks for the input. It is supposed to be a real LT-1, which is the first thing I will confirm. The brakes were redone last spring, so it has had some maintenance during its long history with the current owner (since 1980). The underside pics were not provided to me initially but the guy does not have a lift and the pics were simply done in his driveway.
BTW, how would the LT-1 be documented? I don't think the PoP is available, and I am guessing the tank sticker is still on the tank. Is there something besides the engine stamp?
Greg
Thanks for the input. It is supposed to be a real LT-1, which is the first thing I will confirm. The brakes were redone last spring, so it has had some maintenance during its long history with the current owner (since 1980). The underside pics were not provided to me initially but the guy does not have a lift and the pics were simply done in his driveway.
BTW, how would the LT-1 be documented? I don't think the PoP is available, and I am guessing the tank sticker is still on the tank. Is there something besides the engine stamp?
Greg
Pro
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 593
Likes: 0
From: Warrenville IL
A couple of things to look at for sure:
- Winshield posts from the top corner to as far down as you can see. Take a look at the metal and look for rust, pitting, holes, etc. Look down at where the post meets the body and check it carefully. Rust there is a bad thing and hard to deal with.
- Take a look under the rear end. Lay under the car behind the seat infront of the rear tire. Take a look at how rusty the trailing arm that the tire mounts to is. Look at the frame crossmember there. Look forward to the trans crossmember for rust. Take a look at the exhaust. Check out the drive shaft and half shafts. Move behind the tire and take a look at the spring where it mounts. In my case the spring bolts had torn away from the differential cover.
- Above the tire take a look at the #4 body mount reinforcement and bushing. Also check out the mount. See if it looks like it is solid or not.
- If you can, take off the covers on the #3 body mount, on the just behind the door, accessable just in front of the tire, and take a look in for rust or damage.
Just my 2 cents.
- Winshield posts from the top corner to as far down as you can see. Take a look at the metal and look for rust, pitting, holes, etc. Look down at where the post meets the body and check it carefully. Rust there is a bad thing and hard to deal with.
- Take a look under the rear end. Lay under the car behind the seat infront of the rear tire. Take a look at how rusty the trailing arm that the tire mounts to is. Look at the frame crossmember there. Look forward to the trans crossmember for rust. Take a look at the exhaust. Check out the drive shaft and half shafts. Move behind the tire and take a look at the spring where it mounts. In my case the spring bolts had torn away from the differential cover.
- Above the tire take a look at the #4 body mount reinforcement and bushing. Also check out the mount. See if it looks like it is solid or not.
- If you can, take off the covers on the #3 body mount, on the just behind the door, accessable just in front of the tire, and take a look in for rust or damage.
Just my 2 cents.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,693
Likes: 157
From: Miami, FL
Guys,
I have added some more pictures of this car including some of the undercarriage, carburetor, engine pad....
Now I know it is NOM, but am I still interested? I think so. It's a 71 engine from an LT1 Z28, so it is pretty close match. The car is still an LT1 in original paint (still with limited docs).
What do you all think with the updated information?
http://picasaweb.google.com/cartlin/Corvette
I have added some more pictures of this car including some of the undercarriage, carburetor, engine pad....
Now I know it is NOM, but am I still interested? I think so. It's a 71 engine from an LT1 Z28, so it is pretty close match. The car is still an LT1 in original paint (still with limited docs).
What do you all think with the updated information?
http://picasaweb.google.com/cartlin/Corvette
Last edited by gccch; Oct 27, 2007 at 02:12 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,924
Likes: 6
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
From: Memphis TN
A 71 LT1 is pretty easy to distinguish from non-LT1's:
1) LT1's have only one fuel line and all other 70-72 Corvettes have a fuel return line running parallel to the fuel supply line. This should be a dead giveaway as a fuel line cannot be replaced (intact) with the body on.
2) LT1's utilized a TI distributor. If no TI amp, distributor, or harness if there, then something is amiss.
2) LT1's had a 6500 tachometer. The LS6 did too, but not the others.
3) Should have caps instead of u-bolts on the stub axles.
If it passes this test, especially item #1, then its likely an LT1
1) LT1's have only one fuel line and all other 70-72 Corvettes have a fuel return line running parallel to the fuel supply line. This should be a dead giveaway as a fuel line cannot be replaced (intact) with the body on.
2) LT1's utilized a TI distributor. If no TI amp, distributor, or harness if there, then something is amiss.
2) LT1's had a 6500 tachometer. The LS6 did too, but not the others.
3) Should have caps instead of u-bolts on the stub axles.
If it passes this test, especially item #1, then its likely an LT1
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,668
Likes: 119
From: St. Charles Mo
CI 5 & 8 Veteran
Looks like it probably has an LT-1 Tach, but it is most likely broken since there is an aftermarket tach on the column. I could only see up to 6k with no redline visible.
Bullshark
Bullshark
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,693
Likes: 157
From: Miami, FL
A 71 LT1 is pretty easy to distinguish from non-LT1's:
1) LT1's have only one fuel line and all other 70-72 Corvettes have a fuel return line running parallel to the fuel supply line. This should be a dead giveaway as a fuel line cannot be replaced (intact) with the body on.
2) LT1's utilized a TI distributor. If no TI amp, distributor, or harness if there, then something is amiss.
2) LT1's had a 6500 tachometer. The LS6 did too, but not the others.
3) Should have caps instead of u-bolts on the stub axles.
If it passes this test, especially item #1, then its likely an LT1
1) LT1's have only one fuel line and all other 70-72 Corvettes have a fuel return line running parallel to the fuel supply line. This should be a dead giveaway as a fuel line cannot be replaced (intact) with the body on.
2) LT1's utilized a TI distributor. If no TI amp, distributor, or harness if there, then something is amiss.
2) LT1's had a 6500 tachometer. The LS6 did too, but not the others.
3) Should have caps instead of u-bolts on the stub axles.
If it passes this test, especially item #1, then its likely an LT1