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I know the one piece U-joints are stronger, but I installed the greasable type before I knew better. How many people actually break them with street tires?
My 400 ci ran a 13.3 1/4 mile in a 3900 lb camaro. I have done a few burnouts and haven't had any problems. Just to let you know that I am paranoid now that I am going to bust a U-joint. Thanks.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
IMHO, for normal operation in an otherwise underpowered car, they shouldn't really pose any problems as long as they are installed correctly and maintained.
However, the drag strip is not normal operation, and a 13.3" 3900# Camaro isn't exactly underpowered. If you're going to track it very often, or do other such "spirited" driving with it, I'd seriously consider the solid Spicers before one lets go and costs you a lot more than just a few bucks and a couple of hours. Then you'll sleep better... Just my $0.02.
According to the factory manual, "The universal joints are of the extended-life design and do not require periodic inspection or lubrication".
Extended life U-joints have no zerks, therefore don't need greasing. U-joints with zerks need greasing, otherwise why would there be zerks? I know it's circular logic, but no manufacturer goes to the trouble of drilling and installing zerks in a u-joint that doesn't need greased.
I cracked in 1/2 a USA made NAPA grease joint, shifting at 3k RPM with a targetmaster 350-250 hp, 336 gears with st tires! It had 18k miles on it.
I installed TRW joints with zerks on my 72 a couple of years ago only because I had them on the shelf. I tossed them after 800 miles and put in spicer solids. You may be ok but I'd rather spend the $100+ and put on Spicers. All my vette have them now and I installed many on friends vettes.
My son blew his diff apart but the spicers were rock solid.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
In my youth I had a solid unit go dry and wear out on me. I just got in the habit of installing the greasable types in my shafts after that. I don't drag race, but I've been running a big block in autocross and roadcourse outings for years without a problem.
Not recommending one type over the other, but just relating that there does not seem to be a night and day difference in reliability in applications where the clutch isn't dumped a lot.
DWncchs is correct. When they're installed correctly it's not a big deal greasing them.
Listen to the advice from those who know. Most of the vendors will tell you they ae fine - they know nothing other than how to sell parts and make a quick buck. Most of the junk you can get from these "vendors" is Chinese junk - You can expect Chinese junk from Hong Kong Buffet or City Wok. Unfortunately most of these "vendors" sell this junk too, just for a higher profit.
Also, you want to install them so that when power is applied, the resulting torsion tends to "compress" the zerk hole rather than open it...
Good advice from Z-man. You can install them 90 degrees from the way they ought to be and they might look ok and will work fine under light loading but the strength of the cross is compromised.
Terry