The fun never ends with this engine install...
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 256
Likes: 0
From: Norfolk VA
The fun never ends with this engine install...
So I'm getting soo close to having my new 383 running in the newly painted engine bay, but of course I have run into a few last minute problems...
I bought a set of custom chrome valve covers for my 383 stroker but when I went to put them on I realized the heads are new style and they won't fit. I decided to just buy an adapter for them. I had to remove the rockers to install the adapters and just realized today that even though I thought they didn't get in the way of the rockers, they do rub
I guess the valve covers and adapters are out ($280 down the drain) and as an added bonus, in the two weeks the adapters were on, one of the studs broke off flush in the head (it wasn't even torqued down, just snug in the block).
What's the best method of removing the stud from the head? I'm a bit leary in removing it because of how small it is and being in the aluminum head...
Anyone looking for chrome "383 Stroker" emblem valve covers? I'll cut you a great deal... Guess I should post that in the parts section...
I bought a set of custom chrome valve covers for my 383 stroker but when I went to put them on I realized the heads are new style and they won't fit. I decided to just buy an adapter for them. I had to remove the rockers to install the adapters and just realized today that even though I thought they didn't get in the way of the rockers, they do rub
I guess the valve covers and adapters are out ($280 down the drain) and as an added bonus, in the two weeks the adapters were on, one of the studs broke off flush in the head (it wasn't even torqued down, just snug in the block). What's the best method of removing the stud from the head? I'm a bit leary in removing it because of how small it is and being in the aluminum head...
Anyone looking for chrome "383 Stroker" emblem valve covers? I'll cut you a great deal... Guess I should post that in the parts section...
Former Vendor
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,092
Likes: 2
From: walpole ma
your best chance for taking that stud out is with a high quality ez out kit from a reputable manufacturer.just be careful not to damage the head.What i am not clear on is on what is hitting your rockers. the valve covers or the adapter spacers? We had installed the spacers on a set of heads because the customer didnt like centerbolt valve covers and they didnt hit anything.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,924
Likes: 6
So I'm getting soo close to having my new 383 running in the newly painted engine bay, but of course I have run into a few last minute problems...
I bought a set of custom chrome valve covers for my 383 stroker but when I went to put them on I realized the heads are new style and they won't fit. I decided to just buy an adapter for them. I had to remove the rockers to install the adapters and just realized today that even though I thought they didn't get in the way of the rockers, they do rub I guess the valve covers and adapters are out ($280 down the drain) and as an added bonus, in the two weeks the adapters were on, one of the studs broke off flush in the head (it wasn't even torqued down, just snug in the block).
What's the best method of removing the stud from the head? I'm a bit leary in removing it because of how small it is and being in the aluminum head...
Anyone looking for chrome "383 Stroker" emblem valve covers? I'll cut you a great deal... Guess I should post that in the parts section...
I bought a set of custom chrome valve covers for my 383 stroker but when I went to put them on I realized the heads are new style and they won't fit. I decided to just buy an adapter for them. I had to remove the rockers to install the adapters and just realized today that even though I thought they didn't get in the way of the rockers, they do rub
I guess the valve covers and adapters are out ($280 down the drain) and as an added bonus, in the two weeks the adapters were on, one of the studs broke off flush in the head (it wasn't even torqued down, just snug in the block). What's the best method of removing the stud from the head? I'm a bit leary in removing it because of how small it is and being in the aluminum head...
Anyone looking for chrome "383 Stroker" emblem valve covers? I'll cut you a great deal... Guess I should post that in the parts section...
pm me or email pbcanney@hotmail.com
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 256
Likes: 0
From: Norfolk VA
I believe they are comp 1.6 roller rockers. They are pretty big and the adapter won't clear in between the intake and exhaust rockers so I pulled them off and now the roller pin (or whatever it's called) is sitting right on the adapter plate and won't fully set in. If I try to thin the adapter I don't think it will hold up well enough so I just bought some new chrome center bolts and calling it a day. Here you can see my engine specs, mine was built a year ago, but as far as I can tell, it's the exact same build and the same builder...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TRICK...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TRICK...QQcmdZViewItem
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,924
Likes: 6
I believe they are comp 1.6 roller rockers. They are pretty big and the adapter won't clear in between the intake and exhaust rockers so I pulled them off and now the roller pin (or whatever it's called) is sitting right on the adapter plate and won't fully set in. If I try to thin the adapter I don't think it will hold up well enough so I just bought some new chrome center bolts and calling it a day. Here you can see my engine specs, mine was built a year ago, but as far as I can tell, it's the exact same build and the same builder...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TRICK...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TRICK...QQcmdZViewItem
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 256
Likes: 0
From: Norfolk VA
Well, I def did it this time. I bought an easy out kit from autozone and went to work. It's a cheaper kit (mistake #1). When I began drilling, it didn't occur to me that when the stud sheared, it didn't sheer perfectly flat therefore causing the bit to slide down to the edge near the head, and I didn't have a punch to set the initial hole (we'll just call that one mistake #2). Then after I got a hole drilled that looked well enough I put the easy out in the drill (mistake #3) the whole time asking, why is the end of this squared? That doesn't fit in a drill well... Then in drilling out snapped off the end of the bit (mistake #4, but who's counting?) I now have the stud, I knicked the head a little bit and have an easy out broke off in there. I think it's about time to throw in the towel and give this to a professional. I'll clean it up and tow it into a machine shop. My guess is they'll have to drill it and either heli-coil it or fill it and retap the hole. If I wasn't me, I probably wouldn't let me touch that car 
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 256
Likes: 0
From: Norfolk VA
Here's the valve cover pics... I paid $140 + shipping off ebay. As long as you don't live in Siberia or something, I'll take $75 shipped to your door...
Last edited by cduemig; Oct 26, 2007 at 06:13 PM. Reason: forgot to add the pics
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,342
Likes: 7
From: Connecticut
Did the EZ out break off flush?
If theres any of it left above the stud it should come right out
If you can get a good grip on it just crank it clockwise and see what happens.
I'd also bet that the center bolt covers wouldn't leak with only 3 bolts holding them down so you would be able to drive it to a shop rather than tow it to save some $$$.
If theres any of it left above the stud it should come right out
If you can get a good grip on it just crank it clockwise and see what happens.
I'd also bet that the center bolt covers wouldn't leak with only 3 bolts holding them down so you would be able to drive it to a shop rather than tow it to save some $$$.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 256
Likes: 0
From: Norfolk VA
No, there's still plenty of the ez out left to pull out, but I tried with channel locks to get it to turn though, honestly I didn't try that hard, I'll work on it some more. I should have had my shop-vac there while drilling.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,342
Likes: 7
From: Connecticut
Then get a quality EZ out (don't use a drill) and pull that stud out of there.
I'm not sure if you have bolts, or studs with nuts holding the valve covers down. If they are bolts then it should come out quite easily because the hold downs don't require much torque at all and shouldn't be bottomed out in the hole.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,047
Likes: 12
From: SoCal
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 256
Likes: 0
From: Norfolk VA
I bought them on ebay about six months ago. He had several more, I'm pretty sure he made them. I haven't seen them on there recently. I just did some poking around and I'm not seeing anything.
