Trailing arms installed.













Do you guys want me to keep my project one thread or two threads?

It looks like you got your bushing problem solved...

Personally, I think it would be better to leave it on one thread. Each time I see your thread, I always hit the last page and it keeps me updated. Its up to you...

Yeah, I did get the bushing thing figured out. I said screw it - I've put too much pressure on myself in the past when it came to these little "issues" and I am not building a damn space ship...I mean its a car. My Dad said the same thing - install them, and be done with it. Dan From VanSteel said I was okay...he just PMed me. I will keep it on one thread...I think it will be easier, it shows my progress as opposed to having to switch back and forth between different threads.

I agree.. I think by keeping it on one thread it will show a timeline of when you started until the finish. You'll have a record of how many times people have viewed your resto. Its pain to go through all the pages, if you're late watching this thread, but I like it one thread because it shows from start to finish.

I desperately need to finish my differential...I can't finish the suspension without it. Its going to take me probably a month to do it, just like the trailing arm rebuild...I asked a lot of questions and had to collect parts over several weeks before I took on the challenge.

Looks great You are doing a great job.

My dad and I messed up the first set of pressed bushings with our home made tool.

I had to have VanSteel send me new bushing sleeves...I *&%#^% up my first set too It takes practice.

Just got off the phone with Gary (GTR1999). He's a great guy - I learned so much over the phone He's helping me setup my diff by answering any concerns I have, its like school tutoring Thanks Gary!

Gary's a great guy.

111

You're welcome Jeremy. You've done a lot by yourself in short order.
I must have missed some of your trailing arm posts, but a couple of questions. Did you chase the threads on the caliper brackets? Sometimes paint or even rust gets in there so you want to sure everything bolts up now with the body off. Also your rotors are not the riveted type, did you check the runout to be sure it's under 005"? If not get it there and then you can play with different bolt sequences to see if it changes. You want to keep it under 005.

With the diff while you wait for parts, chamfer the edges and holes. Chase the threads, tap the drain hole 1/4 npt, POR15 or powder coat the housing and cover. Don't install the bearings on the case until you have the posi tuned. Look over the spiders and grind a radius on the edge of the teeth. The additional work you're putting into this will add value and strength in the overall job. When you get your new gear take a couple of pictures of the setup pattern so you can refer back to them. Once you start to pattern you'll be putting some time into it.
Make up the tool I told you about today as well and buy your buddy at the machine shop a nice dinner! Better yet have a nice cook out next summer and him over. Too bad I'm 2500 miles away I'd stop over to how you're doing!

I chased all the caliper mounting bolts threads already. I had to drill and tap one of the holes to accept a 1/2'' bolt instead of a 7/16 bolt (my fault...I used a coarse thread tap on one of the holes, what a stupid mistake) - I still have to enlarge the hole in the caliper. The main reason I went with the unriveted rotors was because I am known to ruin perfectly new parts...no joke. I chickened out of tapping and threading the holes in my new spindles...that is the main reason why I decided to go with unriveted rotors. I have already checked the rotor runout and it was under 0.003 - so I think I am good there. Yeah, I know I said that I have decided to just use the trailing arms the way they are with the bushings and all, but now it is lingering in the back of my mind. I think the trailing arm holes might be enlarged, I don't know anymore. I'm driving myself crazy again

Any thoughts?

need some advice guys (about the trailing arms)...

As you can see in the video, the metal cup that the bushing is pressed into is lifting a tiny bit when I apply side pressure on the trailing arm. This may be do to the fact that my metal cups were not a press fit - they were a snug fit when I put them in. I just want to get some more opinions before I continue to assemble the rear suspension...I want to fix this problem now. The only way I see I could fix the problem is if I remove the parking brakes from the trailing arms, then I remove the four nuts that attach the bearing assembly to the arm itself. Then I just replace the 2 bare trailing arms.

Update!

My new parts finally came in today. I exchanged my old Dana Ball joints with Vansteel for new Moog joints (replaced all four of them...the pictures only show the upper control arms though)- I paid the difference. I also decided to buy offset trailing arms - I want this car to be mine, not someone elses...I like the look of large tires, so I went with offsets. I got my new 3.73 ring/pinion from VanSteel (they got it form Tom's Differentials). I also got my parts from Gary Ramadai (gtr1999). As you can see, I started tuning my posi case...I'm almost ready to go to my friend's machineshop to finish her up

Just called my friend, I'm heading over to his machineshop sometime next week. I'll try and snap some pics of his place, it nuts...there are so many machines and tools.

Keep up the GREAT work...any Dad would be proud to have you as their son.

Thanks